Shuri-ori 首里織 is a type of Ryukuan textile woven on a loom. One of the most common patterns is Shuri Hana Ori (hana means “flower”), and there is a simple flower pattern that appears in the fabric. Another pattern is Shuri Roton Ori, which has raised vertical treads.
You can try your hand at shuri-ori (and other Ryukuan crafts) at the Traditional Handicrafts Center in Naha, near Kokusai-dori. My husband and I made our own coasters awhile ago, and it was a lot of fun. There are several other types of traditional crafts you can try here as well.
I have also received a few gifts of small shuri-ori items; the size of table mats and coasters. The patterns and colors are simple, yet quite nice, and really look elegant. If you just want to purchase, not weave your own, there are several shops around Shuri and Naha.
my weaving
looms
shuri roton ori (top), shuri hana ori (bottom)
Shuri hana ori: so cute and bright
Shuri roton ori: I love these colors, it feels like autumn!
七夕 Tanabata is known as the “star festival” in Japan.
In Okinawa, it is observed during the lunar calendar (like many other holidays…) instead of the solar calendar (more typical in mainland Japan). It occurs on July 7th in many parts of mainland Japan, and the 7th day of the 7th lunar month in Okinawa, usually around August, just before Obon begins. It is the precursor to Obon; mostly it is the day to clean the ancestors’ grave, put flowers, beverages and incense in front of the grave to guide the ancestors’ spirits to come to one’s house. It is a time to ask ancestors to come visit during Obon season; it is believed that the ancestors protect their descendants in the real world, so it is important to take of them in their afterlife.
In present day, Tanabata in Japan is typically celebrated as a school event; students decorate bamboo branches with ornaments and hang strips of colorful paper with their wishes written on them, called tanzaku 短冊. Ornaments made of origami paper are made into shapes such as windsock, stars, lanterns and nets. They all have a meaning; for instance, the net-shaped paper represents a river. Several retail stores and community centers will put up Tanabata trees with decorations, and leave blank slips of paper for you to write your wishes on to hang on the tree.
The story of Tanabata, based on a Chinese legend of the “weaver star” (known as Vega in English) and the “cowherd star” (Altair): There once was a young woman named Orihime (Vega), who was good at weaving cloth and worked very hard to the please her father. But, as she worked very hard she became afraid that she would never fall in love and marry. Her father, Tentei (Sky King), who was a god, arranged for her to meet a hard working cattleman Hikoboshi (Altair) who lived across Amanogawa River 天の川 (literally, heavenly river, the Milky way) on the eastern side, while Orihime and her father lived on the western side.
The two fell instantly in love and married, but subsequently she forgot about weaving and he let his cattle wander all over on both sides; this made Tentei angry. He ordered the two to separate and each to live on a separate side of the river. His daughter wept and pleaded, however, so Tentei relented a little, and allowed the two to meet once a year, on the night of the seventh day of the seventh month.
So, if you look up into the evening sky on July 7 and it is clear, you can see the two stars reunited. But if it is rainy or cloudy, know that they will try to meet again next year. Some children will even make teru teru bozu てるてる坊主 to wish for good weather such that the lovers will meet again!
In Okinawa, the Tanabata story is usually a little different, and actually refers to the Celestial Maiden Legend (Hagoromo), which is believed to have occurred at Mori-no-kawa in Ginowan. The Ginowan summer matsuri is themed around the celestial maiden legend; even the city mascot is the celestial maiden! So, to conclude, Japanese tanabata is celebrated quite differently from Okinawa tanabata. While you may see a few wishing trees up at department stores or community centers and cute tanabata-themed packaged snacks, there really is not much public tanabata celebration in Okinawa like there is in mainland Japan. One day I hope to make the Sendai Tanabata festival held August 6-8 (not quite using the lunar calendar, but close…).
Typically in Okinawa, the only 2 places with “events” around July 7th Tanabata are Okinawa city 1st street shopping arcade in Koza, and the Itoman Peace Memorial Park.
There are many locations in Japan and even Korea where the “celestial maiden” (or also known as “heavenly maiden”) myth takes place; one such place happens to be in Ginowan 宜野湾, Okinawa at Mori-no-kawa 森の川 (also written as: 森川). Tennyo 天女 mean “heavenly maiden” in Japanese. Tennyo-chan also happens to be the city mascot for Ginowan, so you see her image quite a bit in the area.
**In Ryukyuan language 森の川 is actually pronounced “Mui-nu-kaa” ムイヌカー. Though I have honestly never heard anyone call it that, I have only heard the Japanese pronunciation.
Mori-no-kawa Spring is surrounded by a small forested park, with a few monuments explaining the heavenly maiden legend. The spring (known as a ヒージャーガー hiijaagaa in Okinawa language) is considered somewhat of a sacred place where people would gather water for cooking, drinking, laundry, etc; often in Okinawa you will see small altars here. Sacred spots are called utaki 御嶽 in Ryukyuan language, and are oftentimes located at a water spring, mountain, woods, cave, or other natural geologic feature.
In Mori-no-kawa park, you will see a stone wall with a gate leading to the woods– do not try to enter this area, it is an utaki! It is considered sacred, and only priestesses are usually allowed in there. Oddly, it is also right next to the border with Futenma military base, which actually protects it from potential land developers who would mow it over for a luxury resort, high-rise apartment, or golf course. The wall and gate kind of reminds me of a “secret garden” entrance, sort of mystical and such, with all the thick forest behind it.
I have heard rumors that Mori-no-kawa is both a “power spot” and a “haunted spot.” Perhaps I will post the ghost stories of this location sometime. Either way, it is indeed has the air of a spiritual place.
The Legend of Hagoromo (羽衣 hagoromo: celestial robe): A long time ago a farmer (in other stories he is a woodcutter) named Ufuya Okuma was on his way home when stopped by the Mori-no-kawa (spring); to his amazement he saw a beautiful woman, a celestial being, bathing in the water. Not too far away was her celestial robe (called “hagoromo”) hanging on a tree branch. The farmer decided to take her heavenly garment and hide it. When the celestial maiden discovered her robe had mysteriously vanished she was upset since she could not return to the heavens without it. Ufuya returned and came to the “rescue” of the distressed woman, clothed her, and took her into his house, basically tricking her. Since she could not return home to the heavens, she became the farmer’s wife and later gave birth to two children, a boy and a girl. Legend says that one day the maiden heard her little daughter singing a lullaby, “Don’t cry baby. Toubins-hanin’s (angel’s wings) are hidden in the storehouse under the millet. Don’t cry baby.” The maiden rushed to the storehouse and there she found her hidden celestial robe. She immediately left to return to the heavens, never to return again.
What became of her daughter is not really certain, but legend is that the son grew up and became a great king, King Satto, a once great king of the Chuzan region, the central area of the Ryukyu Kingdom during the 14th Century. This is the Ryukuan legend of the celestial robe.
Every year in Ginowan, during the summer, is the Hagoromo matsuri, in part celebrating the legend, but also the culture of the town.
韓国 “kankoku” means Korea in Japanese, 料理 “ryouri” means cooking/food, so 韓国料理 kankoku-ryouri means Korean food.
In Okinawa, there is not a whole lot of Korean food, unfortunately. However, you can find some Korean ingredients in a few of the stores and a there are a few decent restaurants where you can get your fix.
Some common grocery stores, such as SanA, will carry gochujang paste, pepper flakes, Korean seaweed, and kimchi. Usually grocery stores carry Japanese-style kimchi (a lot less spicy, different flavor), which to me is not as good, but often they will carry a few imported kimchi in jars from Korea. Some stores have a better variety of imports; depending on what you are looking for Kaldi, DonQuijote, APrice, and Gyomu Super have some decent selections of ingredients and products that you cannot find in the typical Japanese supermarkets.
Awhile ago, Ryubo department store in Naha opened up a kimchi counter inside the basement grocery/food floor~ pretty good selection and taste; there is also a sit-down Korean food cafe there.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/WxXoNYyqEVF2
Gejol Korean restaurant in Ginowan has a good variety of Korean dishes, and is worth checking out. I want to go back and try the homemade makgeolli some evening when I have time. You can also buy kimchi to go. The owner is very sweet and nice.
address: 〒901-2215宜野湾市真栄原3-33-30 https://goo.gl/maps/kSs4yG1eheE2
On the second floor of あっぷるタウン (Omoromachi Apple Town) in Naha is Tokyo Sundubu restaurant, 東京純豆腐. It is a bit Japanese style, but still pretty good, especially when you feel like jjigae.
address: 〒900-0006 那覇市おもろまち３丁目３−１ https://goo.gl/maps/h1hdfkrot422
There are several yakiniku restaurants (grilled meat) in Okinawa, and while derived from Korean cuisine, these places rarely offer much in the way of actual Korean-style banchan, kimchi, or even Korean-style meats. The only one that I have found to close to Korean-style food is Myeongdong (2 locations). Not only this, but the dolsot (stone bowl) bibimbap was pretty good, too.
Urasoe, address #1: 〒901-2131 浦添市牧港4丁目 6-1 https://goo.gl/maps/iJFDFR8Vy9x
Naha, address #2: 〒901-0146那覇市具志３丁目１２−１https://goo.gl/maps/xM8T5oFpEuv
In Urasoe is 大長今 Dae Jang Geum restaurant. They were so-so and parking was impossible. The food was not good enough for me to deal with that parking again…
address: https://goo.gl/maps/gT11pLAhYzG2
I have not tried every Korean restaurant Okinawa has to offer (yet). I have heard rumors of a good place somewhere on the west side near Araha, and some people swear by a few up in Awase/Uruma area. Hopefully I can find out soon if these places are indeed the Korean soul food I so dearly miss.
Luckily, for those of us that love Korean food, culture, and beauty products, Seoul is only a 2 hour plane ride away for the things you simply cannot find here in Okinawa.
We just took a short weekend trip to Miyako-jima, one of the southern islands in Okinawa prefecture. You must fly (cannot take a ferry to Miyako-jima), but luckily it is a short 50 minute flight. When you get there, it is highly recommended that you rent a car, or at least a scooter, since the island is decently big (compared to some of the others in Okinawa).
There are a few things to “sight-see” on Miyako-jima, but really it is all about the diving, swimming, and snorkeling. Beautiful beaches are plentiful, and many of them have snorkeling spots (although these are mostly for novices, avid snorkelers will want to take a boat tour to some of the more spectacular reefs).
We stayed at a quiet AirBnB on Kurima-jima, which is connected to Miyako-jima by a bridge. There are other islands also connected to Miyako-jima by bridge: Ikema-jima and Irabu-jima/Shimoji-jima.
Miyako-jima is known for mango– so of course I indulged at every opportunity! We had mango smoothies from some cafes, fresh mango juice from a farm, and anything else mango I could find.
We ate dinner the first night at a great Italian spot near the main city area. It was called ADish. We had pizza, pasta, salad, crostini, and wine. We sat at the counter, but reservations are recommended for this place. We were too busy eating to take photos unfortunately. When we returned, we bought some cans of Orion and sat outside, gazing at the milky way and millions of stars, listening to the insects.
The second night, we decided to try the local place by the AirBnB house. So we walked down the road to Hanafuu 花風, which is some shipping containers converted into a small restaurant. The menu was written on fans on the wall; we started with some Orion draft beers. The owner was happy to see us, and we chatted a bit in Japanese. She gave us some yakiimo (baked sweet potato) that was grown in Miyako-jima and a hair tie with bingata print on it. We ordered another round, as well as goya chanpuru and salt yakisoba. At this point, a few more customers started to arrive (most of them it seemed like this place was their second home). So we ended up also chatting with some of them. She ended up giving us a few extra side dishes for free, and everything we tasted was amazing. After a few more rounds of beer, the owner was convinced to break out her sanshin to play and sing for us. In this small place, we were truly able to feel the kindness and vivacity of the Miyako-jima people. Finally we were tired, settled the bill, said our goodbyes and headed out. We were greeted with the millions of stars in the dark sky, surrounded by rustling sugarcane fields.
Overall, it was a fabulous trip, with great food, friendly people, nice beaches and gorgeous views.
According to Japanese, turmeric (called ukon ウコン in Japanese, ucchin うっちん in Okinawa language) is good for your liver.
Ukon tea and ukon “health” drinks are pretty commonly found; in the conbini there is often a drink case with rows of small bottles with pictures of livers (or sometimes drunk/hungover people) on them, and the main ingredient in these drinks turmeric. There are types to drink before a night of heavily drinking alcohol, as well as some for after you have drank a lot of alcohol. I have not clue which actually works better… maybe try one of each.
These “hangover cures” are made by many companies… some popular ones are Heparize ヘパリーゼ and Ukon no Chikara ウコンの力 (turmeric power). These drinks are easy to find in drugstores (薬) and conbini (like FamilyMart and Lawson); this is probably due to the fact that salarymen/women, students, social circles, etc., are expected to get completely sloshed at get-togethers with colleagues, with clients, with current or former classmates, whoever. It is simply a part of Japanese socialization in society. More on this later… but as side note, the Japanese word for hangover is 二日酔い futsukayoi (literally, to be drunk for 2 days).
It is also easy to find turmeric root here in the markets. They sort of resemble ginger root, so be careful and make sure you read which one is which. Using turmeric root can be interesting and healthful to add to your cooking, but it does stain everything a yellowish-orange… so don’t use the nice towels to clean up.
A far as turmeric tea, this is easily found in the grocery store in the aisle with the other teas. It will be labelled either ウコン茶 or うっちん茶, usually depending on if it is Okinawan or from somewhere else.
Sagaribana サガリバナ are a type of powderpuff tree, also called Barringtonia racemosa. The trees bloom during nighttime from late June and into July in Okinawa; each little bloom lasts for only 1 night before falling to the ground in the morning. There are a few locations to spot these. One is in the town next mine, Nishihara 西原町!
Most people recommend to look for them ~8:30pm when they are in full bloom. In Nishihara town within the Kadekaru neighborhood (嘉手苅), there is a small park where many of these trees can be found, and some of the surrounding houses have them in their yards. This tree is a protected tree in Nishihara and is the symbol on the Nishihara town manhole covers. They are called Sawafuji サワフジ and are located at the Uchima Udun (a residence site where the Ryukyu king Sho En lived for 15 years before he came to the throne).
In Shuri, the trees are “kiifuji” キーフジ as they were known in the Ryukyu Kingdom era. They were highly prized trees for their unique blooms.
The first time unfortunately, as I did not exactly plan my evening walk properly, I arrived way too early (both time of evening and in the month) to see the full blooms. Since then, I have made various trips to Nishihara and Shuri areas. And I am not a photographer or have a nice camera… but the flowers are gorgeous!
Other known places to view Sagaribana are near Shuri (Sueyoshi Park and Sakiyama area), Zanpa (Yomitan), Naha, and Nago (Haneji/Makiya); you can also spot these on some of the outer islands, such as Miyako-jima and Ishigaki-jima.
Of the locations I have visited, probably the Sakiyama road area in front of the Zuisen Awamori distillery in Shuri is probably one of the best, especially during the “light-up” weekend. Otherwise I hear Nago is great as well. But to be honest, I sort of just like the small neighborhood park in Nishihara. Unless an area is having a “light-up” event, I recommend bringing a flashlight so you can see the blooms nicely.
Location in Nishihara(Google coordinates): 26°13’37.8″N 127°46’04.4″E
Place on the map nearby: Okinawa Prefecture, Nakagami District, Nishihara, Kadekaru, 59
Miyanchi is a nice cafe in a clean, new Okinawan-style building. For lunch, there are set meals, sort of a Okinawa-style fusion. The main dishes are Okinawa soba noodles, but in various styles; I always get the Thai green curry soba. It also comes with seasonal salad, taro juushi, tea or coffee, and dessert. I love the tea; it is a special blend of Okinawa tea and herbs. I even bought some to take home, it was so relaxing. Everything is served in pottery made at the shop, and there is a small gift shop area with art, house tea, and other local items. There are a few regular tables, counter seats overlooking the yard, and a tatami room. It is a very lovely spot for lunch! It is close to the Awase Living Design Center along Rt 329.
In Japan, you will find it common to drink your yogurt… nomu yooguruto 飲むヨーグルト is “drink yogurt.” Yogurt here tends to be thinner than the US, so I guess it makes sense that there are so many yogurt drinks rather than regular yogurt. The Japanese have done a lot of research with lactid acid bacteria and using it in diets. These products are really popular, and supposedly help with gut health. The only downside is that sometimes these drinks contain a decent amount of sugar, but they are okay once in awhile in moderation I think. Occasionally I will pick one up from the conbini; you can usually find flavors such as plain, blueberry, strawberry, grape, banana, citrus, and aloe.
Dessert Labo Chocolat is a patisserie in Shuri. They have many gift biscuits, cookies, meringues, macarons, etc., as well as many types of whole and cut cakes. The reason for my visit was to have an afternoon cake and tea set: for 750円 you can choose any cut cake/pastry in the display case and (ice/hot) tea/coffee/juice. There were so many choices, it was very difficult to choose, but I ended up with a raspberry tiramisu, as well as 2 macarons, with an iced tea. There were tables both inside and out, but since it was a lovely day, I chose to relax outside on the patio, which surprisingly had a rather nice view. Overall, it was quite delightful, and if you happen to be craving something a little sweet and relaxing in the Shuri area, I recommend you drop by.
Munakatado is a bakery (or pan-ya パン屋) in Okinawa that makes natural yeast breads. It is in a wooded area in Ginowan. They sell many types of breads and baked goods, but also have a vegetarian-friendly lunch (sandwich, soup, and drink). It is really good and a very relaxing location, but I recommend bringing the bug spray (the only tables are outside). After you finish eating, there are a few parks within a short drive to stroll about.
Shisa (or shiisaa) シーサー are the guardian lion dogs in Okinawa and Ryukyu culture. They always come in pairs (a male with open mouth on the right, a female with closed mouth on the left); the open mouth wards off evil spirits, and the closed mouth keeps good spirits in. A second mythology is reversed, saying that the male has his mouth closed to keep evil out of the home and the open-mouthed female is to share goodness with others.
There are many, many styles that you will see around… and they are everywhere, from rooftops, gates, schools, houses, stores.
A famous shisa statue in Okinawa is located in Yaese (south), the Tomori Stone Shisa. It has significance in Okinawa history, and has even survived with visible scarring the Battle of Okinawa.
April 3rd is Shisa-no-hi シーサーの日, Shisa day. “Shi” is 4 in Japanese, and “san” is 3, together sounds similar to the word “shisa.” Tsuboya yachimun (pottery) district in Naha has some small events on this day.
I have an assortment of pictures of shisa from around the islands:
Typically Japanese zenzai is a dish served warm… sweetened red beans (azuki beans 小豆) made slightly soupy with piece of mochi 餅 (sticky rice cake). This makes for a delicious cold weather treat. But here in Okinawa… zenzai is usually served chilled! Okinawa zenzai is served cold topped with shave ice~~ this reminds me of Hawai’i! Who doesn’t order azuki beans in the shave ice?! I know I always do, much to my husband’s amusement. As a side note, shave ice is called kakigouri かき氷 in Japanese (I unfortunately on many occasions refer to it as “kaki-ice,” mixing my languages and often getting weird looks from everyone).
Not only this, but Okinawa zenzai is simmered with brown sugar cane (黒糖) to sweeten it instead of regular sugar; this gives a lot of depth to the taste! Another difference in Okinawa is that often red kidney beans are used instead of azuki beans. The reason for this is actually due to post-war, red kidney beans became common (and easier to get) because of the influence of the US military, rather than the smaller Japanese red azuki beans. Sometimes condensed milk is added as an extra topping, or various shave ice flavors might be used (matcha, strawberry… etc.).
There is a chain called 富士家 Fujiya that sets up stands in the shopping malls during the hot summer season. It is pretty famous in Okinawa, and the main shop is located in Tomari, Naha. I usually prefer the smaller places, but no matter what, this sweet frozen treat is a staple of Okinawan summers.
Here are pictures are of Okinawa zenzai from Fujiya and mainland Japan zenzai (these are taken during New Years for 鏡開き kagami-biraki, which is when the New Years mochi is opened).
I am not Italian, nor am I an expert on Italian food. But I do enjoy eating Italian-style cuisine, and surprising there are quite a few good (non-chain) restaurants here in Okinawa (yes, some very bad Japanese-Italian as well). I will make no claims to their “authenticity,” but there are some places where I have had good pasta, pizza, and wine.
One of my favorites is next to the university. A small place called Mou run by a couple, no other workers; there are probably only about 4 tables and a few counter seats. They are open for dinner every day but Tuesday. It is great food, and actually pretty cheap. Plus they are so nice, and even will specially prepare food with no meat for me. The menu is handwritten in Japanese, but they seem like they might know a smattering of English words, although all my conversations of been in Japanese. I especially love the kinako (roasted soy bean powder) tiramisu… it is tiramisu style but no chocolate/cocoa, just kinako. It is incredibly delicious, so I always order it if it is available. For great service, food, and cheap price, I definitely recommend Mou.
address: 沖縄県宜野湾市志真志3-8-7
Yona Salute in Shuri is also another favorite; but reservations are highly recommended! Again, the price is very reasonable and the food is really good. Always order from the chalkboard specials instead of the regular menu at dinner! Also the view is amazing, on a hill, you can lookout over the twinkling city lights. They have a pet tortoise that lives on the balcony. We usually order a salad or appetizer, pasta and wine, as well as some sort of beef or lamb for my husband, and tiramisu for dessert. Desserts come with a side of gelato~ ! Somehow I always eat and drink everything before thinking to take photos when I come here…
address: 〒903-0825 沖縄県那覇市首里山川町1-87-1
There are a few more to add to this list, some I have separate posts for now, and some I will eventually write up:
Grand Kirin is a line of “craft” type beers that are produced by Kirin beer company. They come in glass bottles and the labels look classier than the average Kirin beer. Sort of hipster, really. These beers are a bit pricier than the regular beers, but overall I do like the taste better. Luckily, my local FamilyMart carries them, so they are pretty easy to find. Anyway, they have many limited release beers that I have been tracking through the year; I was especially interested in the moon-watching beer that was available in September. Unfortunately, most are limited release and only available for a few months at most, but the good news is that means they release new ones to try. I have probably tried all of them, but keep forgetting to take pictures… I guess this means I need to go out and grab a few more beers. This is an initial sampling:
the first line of Grand Kirin beers were a bit more plain
Saison beer for rainy season
Moon-watching beer
The caricature on the back is sort of funny-looking…
御盆 Obon in Okinawa is often referred to as “kyuubon” 旧盆, which means “old Bon” because it is celebrated according to the lunar calendar (7th lunar month, 13th through 15th days 旧暦7月13日-15日). Some other areas in Japan celebrate it either in July or August 13-15th. It is also called “Shichiguachi” しちぐぁち, meaning 7th month in Okinawan language. It should also be noted that different areas of the Ryukyu islands actually have their own names and traditions for Obon (for instance, Ishigaki-jima and the Yaeyama islands have something interesting called “Angama”); the ones I write about are the most common for Okinawa main island. Many Obon traditions and customs observed in Okinawa are quite different from the ones typically seen on mainland Japan. Something important to note: the Japanese custom of toro nagashi 灯籠流し is not a common practice in Okinawa, so you will not see candle-lit lanterns released afloat on the water during Obon like you might in parts of mainland Japan.
Obon is a custom to commemorate one’s ancestors; the spirits return to this world for 3 days to visit family. It is sometimes referred to as “ghost festival,” “lantern festival,” or “festival of souls” in English.
In 2018, Obon will be on Aug 23-25th and Tanabata will be Aug 17th.
There are 3 days of Obon in Okinawa:
ウンケー unke/unkeh (お迎え): 1st day, welcoming day, when the sun sets. This is the day where families usually visit graves and welcome the ancestors home. Families will gather at the eldest son’s residence (where the family altar, a butsudan 仏壇, is kept). The family altar is set up, and offerings of fruit, mochi, sweets, sake/awamori, beer, and stalks of sugarcane are placed. The sugarcane is left as walking sticks for the spirits walking from the heavens. Obviously the ancestors favorite foods are also usually placed. Lanterns are set up to guide ancestors home.
ナカビ or ナカヌヒ nakabi or nakanuhi (中日): 2nd day, the middle day. On this evening, all my neighbors leave their doors and windows open, and have a large family dinner. The doors and windows are open to allow the ancestors to enter the home. Also, I see a lot of people distributing “gifts” (known as 御中元 ochuugen) on this day (mostly these are random food and household item gift sets sold in department and grocery stores all over), but any day leading up to or during Obon seems to be okay for distributing summer gifts. The eldest son’s family is in charge of the altar, so they must stay at home to receive other family members and visitors; so while the eldest son’s wife has to prepare many foods and the altar for Obon, they also receive many “gifts” in return, usually in the form of rice, beer, laundry soap, etc. For those family that are not the eldest child, instead they must prepare gifts and visit everyone else’s home where the altars are kept. So either way, it is sort of an expensive endeavor.
ウークイ uukui/ukui (御送り or 精霊送り): 3rd day, farewell day. This last day of Obon is filled with music and eisa (Okinawan bon dance), to say farewell to the ancestor spirits and escort them back to the heavens. There is usually a big feast late into the night, with various foods that are offered and special paper money called uchikabi ウチカビ is burned as for the ancestors so that they can use it in the spirit world. Some offerings and sugar cane is left out by the gate/fence/side of the road for the spirits to take home. This day, on the hillside by my village, you can see a large kanji lit up (they use electric lights, not actually burning into a mountain like Japanese tradition). Maybe this year I can get a decent picture of it; it represents some sort of farewell to the dead.
Before Obon, is Tanabata 七夕. In Okinawa, rather than celebrate star festival, it is more common that this is a grave-cleaning day to prepare for Obon and to ask ancestors to come visit during Obon season. It is believed that the ancestors protect their descendants in the real world, so it is important to take of them in their afterlife.
For the butsudan 仏壇 (altar) set up, many things are included. I will explain what is common in Okinawa… probably places in the mainland are a bit different, though some things will be the same or similar.
A somewhat old fashioned altar set up, on display at the Okinawa Prefectural Museum.
rakugan 落雁: this is dried “sweets” pressed into a mold (very water soluble so it lasts a long time). Despite the colorful appearance, the taste is very subtle, just a little sugar; since this is for altar offerings it is usually more “starchy” than sugary (made from mizuame 水飴, a glutinous rice starch syrup). These tend to be dry and a bit starchy-sweet in flavor. It is a type of Japanese confection (wagashi 和菓子) called higashi 干菓子, which is dried and has low moisture content. Often these will also be called bongashi 盆菓子 (Obon sweets) or kyo-kashi 供菓子 (or お供え菓子).
sugarcane, uuji ウージ (さとうきび satou kibi in Japanese): set out as walking sticks for the spirits. It can also be used to help ancestors carry souvenirs back to the spirit world. There are 2 types set out: long, guusanuuji グーサンウージ to use as a walking stick and as a balancing pole to carry souvenirs, and short, chitu uuji チトゥウージ also used to help carry back souvenirs. Sometimes the short sugarcane is also used as minnuku ミンヌク (水の子 in Japanese, set out as small offerings to Buddhist gods or to keep out bad spirits).
medohagi メドハギ or soromeshi ソーローメーシ (精霊箸): a type of weedy plant. Chopsticks for the ancestors use. I also read somewhere that this can be set out for purification purposes as well.
ganshina ガンシナー: circular ropes so your ancestors can take souvenirs (foods) back to the spirit world; they are used to balance foods or gifts on your head. On the altar they are typically displayed by balancing watermelon, pineapple, oranges, etc. on them.
ukui kasa ウークイカーサ:Alocasia leaves. This is apparently used so your ancestors can wrap souvenirs to take back to the heavens.
uchikabi ウチカビ (打紙): Afterlife money! It is a Japanese paper with the design of coins on it. It is burnt on the last day (ukui) so that your ancestors have money in the afterlife.
eggplant cow (nasu no ushi ナスの牛) & cucumber horse (kyuuri no uma キュウリの馬): placed outside the home so the ancestors can ride on them from the spirit world home, then placed on the altar on the first day of Obon. This is actually more of a mainland thing than Okinawa, instead here uses the sugarcane since it seems Okinawa ancestors come on foot. In Okinawa, you may even see a variation using a goya ゴーヤー. With them is placed mizunoko 水の子, washed rice with diced cucumber and eggplant; although this is optional, it is supposed refresh returning spirits after their journey.
somen そうめん: somen (noodles) are usually place on the altar as well. I don’t know why exactly, but the theory seems to be because somen is easily used in summer cooking, so it is convenient. I also hear it is to use as reins for the ancestors to ride the animals back to the spirit world.
houzuki ほうずき, ホオズキ, or 鬼灯: Chinese lantern plant. It helps light the way for ancestors. These are really quite pretty, and really do look like tiny red lanterns.
senkou 線香 (ukou ウコウ in Okinawan): incense sticks (for purification). Often in Okinawa flat incense is used, called hiraukou ヒラウコウ (平線香).
bon-chouchin 盆提灯: lanterns; these are placed at the altar and the front of the house, so spirits don’t lose their way.
makomo まこも: mat woven from straw of wild rice, used in rituals.
Of course, flowers, seasonal fruits/vegetables, and your ancestors favorite foods (and drinks, usually beer or awamori) are also included on the altar. Typically UNRIPE fruit is used since it sits on the altar for 3 days… so sometimes it is not always so good to eat raw, but instead cooked. Also keep this in mind if you are fruit shopping at the markets during Obon, since many of these fruits will not ripen properly because they are picked so early! Look for signs that indicate 供え物 or 供え用 (translation: for offering/altar use); as well as signs like 青切り (translation: fruit picked early before becoming ripe) and 生食用ではありません (translation: do not eat raw). The 2 you must be MOST careful of are: sticks of sugarcane (it is not for eating and will not be tasty) and pineapple (can only be eaten cooked, do not eat raw). The bananas should be able to ripen somewhat but are also delicious cooked. Mikan (oranges) will be very sour, so maybe this is okay for some people. Unfortunately for many foreigners, the signs are always in Japanese explaining these things!
Below is a sweets offering set for the altar (お供え: offering, 菓子: sweets), easy to find in the grocery stores; unlike rakugan described above, these are in fact very tasty.
On unkeh, there is the custom of eating unkeh juushii ウンケージューシー, which is a type of Okinawa cooked rice with various things mixed into it. It is a simple, but popular dish.
There is usually a box of specific foods during the feast day (ukui) called “usanmi” 御三味 (ウサンミ) that contains: fried tofu 揚げ豆腐, burdock root (gobou ごぼう), kelp (usually tied in knots), fish cake (kamaboko かまぼこ), konnyaku こんにゃく, tempura 天ぷら, fried taro (田芋 taimo) and of course, pork. There also usually a second box of white mochi (rice cakes) set out as well.
Not on the altar, but commonly served for during Obon are your typical trays of sushi, sashimi, fried things, chilled zenzai (sweetened red beans and mochi), cold somen noodles, nakami-jiru 中味汁 (intestines soup).
The local grocery stores in Okinawa have ads for all your Obon needs… this is an example of an advertisement from SanA. Anymore, many people just order trays of オードブル (pronounced ohh-do-bu-ru), which comes from the word hors d’oeuvres, instead of making it all themselves.
While most “events” are private in peoples homes, there are a few goings on, mostly in the form of eisa dance. Traveling groups of eisa often visit various spots throughout the community; by our house, one group comes to the FamilyMart and performs for a nice little show before moving on to the next location. If you live near Okinawa city and the middle part of the island, eisa typically goes on for all 3 nights of Obon, and sometimes another night after that, so be prepared for the continuous sounds of drums and sanshin (click here for Where to see eisa during Obon…). Another fun/interesting event is the Miruku-kami ミルク神 “parade” in Shuri.
I often walk through my neighborhood in the evenings; during obon time, all the doors and windows are left open to the houses. Drums and eisa dance chants ring through the air. I see neighbors burning or wrapping up offerings and leaving them outside on the walkways. It is somehow a nostalgic summer feeling.
In addition, people do not go into the sea during Obon, lest they be dragged to the underworld by deceased souls in the water (typically those who died by drowning or water accidents).
This is the sound of eisa. Anyone who has lived in Okinawa will recognize it immediately.
As summer approaches, so does matsuri season. Eisa is a synonymous with the summer matsuri season here in Okinawa. Eisa エイサー is a type of “bon dance,” 盆踊り (bon odori). Bon, or Obon, (written in kanji as 御盆 or お盆) is an important time of year for Japanese people; it is a time to honor and commemorate their ancestors. They believe that each year during Obon, the ancestor spirits return to our world to visit relatives. Bon occurs the 13th through the 15th day of the 7th month of the year; for many places this is July (according to the solar calendar), however in Okinawa, it is celebrated according to the lunar calendar, so it occurs sometime in August or September. I will leave the details of customs and traditions related to Okinawan Obon holiday for another blog post, and for now focus on eisa. During Obon in Okinawa, many eisa troupes will perform all around the island to bid farewell as their ancestors leave to Earth to return again to the heavens. There is a local group that travels down our neighborhood and town, stopping at various points to perform; we are sure to watch them as they dance, chant, whistle, and play drums in front of the convenience store across the street.
Due to the large Japanese population in Hawai’i, Obon is also commonly celebrated all over Hawai’i throughout the summer months– so this holiday and bon dance in general is not really new to me, but I have learned about some of the more Okinawan traditions and especially eisa dance.
Although eisa originates as a bon dance, it is performed throughout the year and is considered an important aspect of Okinawan/Ryukuan culture. There are several eisa clubs around the island, and they are especially busy during the summer matsuri season. Already at my university they are practicing for summer during lunch and early afternoon, so I have some entertainment these days while I eat.
There are guys (and sometimes girls) playing larger (taiko) drums, as well as those with smaller hand drums. Usually the females are dressed in simple yukata with Ryukyuan designs. At least one of the guys will be dresses as “Chondara” (Okinawan clowns).
The role of the chondara is to cheer the dancers on and entertaining the audience, as well as guiding the group in the right direction. Sometimes also to scare the small children a bit.
The sounds of eisa wafting through the evening air, while sitting outside and drinking a beer sometimes feels a bit nostalgic as strange as that seems. It has that feeling, that summer has indeed arrived, and will soon be gone so be sure to enjoy the (hot and humid) weather now and the carefree feeling of lazy summer days, because soon it will be replaced by chilly fall and winter winds.
In Okinawa, as summer approaches, the mornings are getting much warmer and the desire for an iced cafe latte grows stronger. Starbucks is too expensive, so where is the best deal for an iced coffee drink? Lawson conbini!
コンビニ conbini (or konbini) means convenience store. Lawson is a major chain of conbini throughout Japan. Conbini in Japan are amazing, and nothing like what you see stateside! But I will not get into all those details now. Right now, I will focus on Lawson’s machi cafe line.
Inside every Lawson, you can order several types of coffee drinks from the counter. My favorite during summer, of course, is an iced cafe latte アイスカフェラテ. I have tried iced cafe lattes all around the island, but I have found that the best priced (and consistently good tasting) one is at Lawson conbini, for a mere 150円. Comparing this to Starbucks which is usually more than 300円, I would say this is much more reasonable. FamilyMart, another large country-wide conbini chain, has iced cafe lattes for 180円, a little bit more than Lawson (but, also pretty darn good). In Okinawa, there is the occasional Tully’s (but they are not very common) and a scant few other chains with only one location about (Saint Marc ChocoCro, Doutor, Key Coffee), but they are so few and far between that I am rarely anywhere near them. There is the Climax Coffee chain, located on the other side of the island from me, similar to a Starbucks (similar price, too). There are several small independent shops which also have cafe lattes, but they tend to be fairly expensive, so while very good quality… simply not an everyday drink.
So when it comes down to affordability, taste and convenience for an iced cafe latte, Lawson wins.
Plus for you those of you who desire less caffeine… they just released a 97% caffeine cut series (basically, decaf) as of May 2017! This is great news for my husband, who can now enjoy an iced latte in the afternoon without worrying about caffeine.
Japanese coffee vocabulary: the best part is that it is almost always katakana!
コーヒー ko-hi coffee
珈琲 ko-hi- coffee (the kanji is based on the sounds not the meaning)
ブレンド burendo blend
アイス aisu iced
フローズン furo-zun frozen
ホット hotto hot
カフェラテ kafe rate cafe latte
カフェモカ kafe moka cafe mocha
抹茶ラテ maccha rate matcha (green tea) latte
ロイヤルミルクティー roiyaru miruku ti- royal milk tea
ココア kokoa cocoa
アールグレイティー a-rugurei ti- Earl Grey tea
砂糖 satou sugar
砂糖なし** satou nashi: without sugar
クリーム kuri-mu cream
シロップ shiroppu sugar in syrup (liquid) form
**なし nashi means "without"-- a very useful word!!
Okay, now this part may seem a little silly, but how do you order a machi cafe at Lawson if you don’t really know any Japanese? Let me help; just keep in mind there are often variations in speech patterns, so depending on your clerk, they may use different phrasing, as well as formal or casual speech.
First, before you approach the register, decide what you want from the menu (okay, maybe that is obvious). I get a latte, so let’s practice using that as an example.
If I want it iced, I used アイス “aisu” instead of ホット “hotto.” Yes, seriously, we use Japanese English in this case.
The clerk will than ask what size if what you are ordering comes in 2 sizes. Sometimes I say the size when I order, but often times they will ask it again to confirm anyway. The shortest and most casual way they say this is as follows. Sometimes they will say it formally, but just listen for keywords.
サイズは？ saizu wa? What size?
In which you reply:
Lサイズです。 eru saizu desu. L size.
or
Mサイズです。 emu saizu desu. M size.
At this point, they are probably ringing up your total. At some locations, the coffee pickup counter is to the side, so they will say something like:
となりのカウンターお待ちください tonari no kauntaa omachi kudasai. Please wait at the next counter.
Keep in mind there are many variations on this. The key word here is “machi” 待ち or “matte” 待って, meaning “waiting” or “to wait.” The other keyword is “kauntaa” which is “counter.”
Some places will ask how many sugars you will want either while they are ringing you up or while you are waiting for the machine to make you coffee. Listen for:
砂糖はいくつ（入れますか）？ satou ha ikutsu (iremasuka)? How many sugars (do you put in)?
Keyword here is “satou” which is “sugar.”
Your response:
なしで。 nashi de. None.
一個。 ikko. One.
二個。niko. Two.
三個。sanko. Three.
Sometimes they do not ask about sugar and it is self-serve. In this case this will point to the little bin with sugars and stirrers and the like as they hand you your coffee (it will be obvious). They will instead say something like:
砂糖、どうぞ。 satou, douzo. Please help yourself to sugar.
When they hand you your coffee they often (but not always) say:
お待たせいたしました。omataseitashimashita. Thank you for waiting.
At this point when you receive your coffee you can respond with a casual “doumo,” or if you feel like “arigatou” or “doumo arigatou,” etc.
Again, keep in mind there are so many variations, and in order to not confuse you, I just put down some basics and keywords to listen for so your transaction can go smoothly! These are the “bite-sized” phrases to simply get you through the process. I like to remind people that in Okinawa, speaking informally is a bit more the norm; besides this, many people appreciate your effort in speaking even just a little Japanese as a foreigner, so worrying about formal/casual language is not nearly so important as many people make it out to be.
担々麺 (tantanmen) or 坦々ラーメン (tantan ramen) is a popular “Chinese-style” noodle dish in Japan. It is typically seen as ramen (but occasionally as tsukemen, aka dipping noodles). It is often found at ramen and Chinese restaurants. A few shops in Okinawa will advertise it as a specialty dish of the shop. I know of quite a few shops with tantanmen not far from my area. I frequently see banners outside of ramen shops advertising tantanmen.
Tantanmen usually has a spicy broth with thick sesame taste, topped with minced pork and green onions. It is supposedly Sichuan-style, although Japan often tones down the spicy levels and focuses more on the rich, sesame qualities of the broth.
Some of the better places in Okinawa to try tantanmen (I will try to add some more restaurants):
*Arashi ramen 嵐, Stripe ramen, and Tenkaipin ramen 天下一品 are very popular with Americans, most likely due to the fact they have English menus and are close to American bases. I do not tend to patronize these places, but many other people seem to enjoy them, so decide for yourself if you want to check them out. My husband says the fried rice at Arashi is pretty good. Both Arashi and Tenkaipin are large restaurant chains from the mainland. I am not sure on the menus, but I am fairly certain they have tantanmen, or some variation.
だるま (達磨) Daruma are round, and usually red, Japanese traditional dolls with a bearded man’s face painted on it. The eyes are left blank; it is used to keep track of aspirations or goals and motivate you to work hard to accomplish them. The recipient of the doll fills in one eye upon setting the goal, and then the other when it is completed, such that every time you see the one-eyed daruma you think about reaching the goal. Daruma are symbols of perseverance and good luck, which makes them a popular gift of encouragement. Darumas are usually made of papier-mâché and are hollow with weight at the bottom so that they always return to an upright position when tilted over. This characteristic has come to symbolize the ability to have success, overcome adversity, and recover from misfortune.
There is a temple dedicated to daruma near Shuri-jo. It is called Daruma-dera Sairaiin だるま寺西来院. Students come here to offer prayers when exams are near, and I think this one is also popular for families to come pray for safe and easy childbirth. It is a small temple, but full of character. This lovely temple is located behind the Shuri-jo area, and well worth a visit when you are in the area.
This can be romanized a few ways: moui or mo-i, I think are most common. Moui known in English as Chinese cucumber, red gourd, or just yellow cucumber. It looks just like a giant yellow-orange cucumber. It is a pretty common summer vegetable here in Okinawa, and since it is getting cheap in the markets, I will probably make some pickles from it.
It pretty much tastes and looks like a large yellow cucumber. It can be eaten plain, pickled, added to salads, or even cooked in soups. There are some Okinawan recipes for using it in side dishes.
Click for a pickles recipe using moui on this page. Perhaps later I will add in some other recipes from local friends.
Tsuken-jima, aka “Carrot Island,” is a short and cheap ferry ride (~15-30 minutes) from the Okinawan main island. I can see this island from the window of the second story of my house.
The word carrot in Japanese is ninjin 人参 but oddly enough you may see it as キャロット “kyarotto” in katakana.
It is an easy day trip and the whole island can be seen on foot. There is no need to bring a car or rent a car. There is a trail, mostly paved, that runs along the island. There are several utaki (Okinawan sacred forest/spots), a few hiijaagaa (water springs, usually somewhat sacred), and an observatory shaped like a rusty orange carrot with panoramic views. Basically, it is a nice walk. The water is beautiful, so water activities are also a possibility here.
Of course, there are many carrot fields and bags of carrots are sold here, as well as various carrot products, like cakes and breads. There is even a “carrot cider” (however the word cider サイダー in Japanese actually refers to soda, just as an fyi).
On this particular trip, I slipped and ended up breaking my camera, so the only photos are from the beginning of the hike… but I promise, it is quite nice the rest of the way, too.
お好み焼き Okonomiyaki is considered Japanese junk food… but it is delicious! It comes from the phrase “as you like it”; basically it is a simple recipe with cabbage and a pancake-like batter that you add toppings as you desire. There are 2 main styles: Kansai (or Osaka) style and Hiroshima style. I tend to prefer Kansai style, even if it is a bit more simple. In Okinawa, there is something not quite the same, but many people refer to as Okinawan okonomiyaki, called hirayachi.
Kansai style (関西) is a mixed batter, then cooked in a fry pan or on a flat grill top. If adding bacon, it is just added in strips to top side before you flip and cook the top side. When its cooked, it is served with nori (seaweed sprinkles) のり, katsuobushi (shaved bonito flakes) 鰹節, a thick sweet brown sauce (called okonomi sauce) お好みソース, and mayonnaise. Often there is benishouga (pickled ginger) 紅生姜 on the side.
Hiroshima (広島) style is layered instead of mixed, making it a bit more complicated to cook. Usually it includes a fried egg and yakisoba noodles inside as well. It is served in a similar way to Kansai style, with the okonomi sauce, nori, ginger, and mayo.
I enjoy eating at okonomiyaki restaurants, especially the ones where you can grill it at your table. In Okinawa, there are not many okonomiyaki restaurants, but there is a really good one called Heshin 海神 located in Awase that is not too far from me and serves Kansai style. Red Helmet 赤いヘルメット is a Hiroshima style place in Okinawa city. They are really good, for Hiroshima style. I think I may prefer Kansai style for its simplicity, though. But I think everyone should try them and decide for themselves which style they prefer. Heshin and Red Helmet are definitely the top 2 okonomiyaki places in Okinawa. There are some other places you can find it in Okinawa, these 2 places just happen to be some of the best. You can nearly always find okonomiyaki at summer festivals (natsu matsuri 夏祭り), too, as it is a very popular summer festival food.
Simple okonomiyaki is fairly easy to make at home though; all the ingredients are widely available. You can even buy kits that have all but the fresh ingredients inside (just buy your own cabbage, egg, bacon, green onion).
What do I like in my okonomiyaki? Well, definitely benishouga (pickled red ginger) on the side. I go for vegetable-based and skip the bacon. I usually order extra green onion. If I feel a bit different, I might add kimchi, cheese, and/or mochi bits. For those of you that like seafood, there are usually various things like shrimp (海老), scallops (ホタテ), octopus (たこ), or squid (いか) to mix in the batter. Many places will usually offer different types of meats for the batter as well.
When you visit Japan, eating okonomiyaki is a must-do!
**neither of these places have English menus… just be prepared for when you visit!
Here is a list of some other decent Okonomiyaki restaurants in Okinawa. Again, most of these do not have English menus; I think Sanshiro in Ginowan is the only one with an English menu. Other than that, there was an okonomiyaki shop in American Village with an English menu but they were not very good in my opinion (so I have not listed it here).
石垣島 Ishigaki-jima is one of the southern islands in the Ryukyu chain, known as one of the Yaeyama islands 八重山諸島. To get there, you need to fly from Naha, Okinawa main island into Ishigaki airport. The fare is somewhat reasonable, typically ~15000円 roundtrip. Once you get there, it is probably best to rent a car, or at least a moped. You can also rent bicycles many places.
As far as sights go, there are a few must-see stops. Kabira Bay is probably on the top of the list, with stunning natural beauty. There are some other things “to see,” but Ishigaki is more about natural beauty than man-made sights. I recommend snorkeling or diving, kayaking, hiking, star-gazing… or just enjoying the outdoors! Perhaps check out Banna Park or the limestone cave, maybe one of the observatory viewpoints.
According to my sensei, whose cousins grew up here and thereby he visited often, eating beef soup on Ishigaki is highly recommended. Many people also recommend some of the more expensive Ishigaki yakiniku (BBQ) if you are in the mood for something a little fancier, but usually these place do not open until dinner time. Another cheap option would be Yaeyama soba, which is slightly different from Okinawa main island soba.
For me, Toufu no Higa is a must. I know it is not exactly on the “tourist path,” but as a foreigner, I found it unique and fantastic. It is a meal for the average working man (and woman).
Obviously there is locally produced awamori should you want to try it, but there is also a craft beer brewed in Ishigaki, which is definitely worth a try while you are there.
**Bonus trips from Ishigaki, via ferry (I will make separate posts for these later):
-Taketomi-jima: Recommended. See the old traditional houses with their colorful reddish roof tiles, explore the small streets, take an ox-cart ride, visit the squirrel monkeys.
-Iriomote-jima: Popular visit among tourists. Ox-carts, squirrel monkeys, and the Iriomote wildcat.
-Hateruma-jima: the southernmost island in Okinawa prefecture! This is on my list of places to go, and I hear the night sky is breathtaking here.
スタンプラリー Stamp rally. This is probably what it sounds like…
As a visitor, you may notice in some places (especially tourist sites) there are large stamps and ink pads. They sometimes have intricate designs, representative of the town or historic site. Sometimes they are just cartoon characters. But whichever they are, they usually serve a purpose: as a step in a “stamp rally.”
What does a stamp rally mean exactly? Well, typically this is geared towards children. You pick up an official paper grid with blank spaces at a central location, such as the information desk or a ticket office. Then you go around the site and look for the stamp stations, each with different designs. The goal is to find all of them and stamp each piece of your grid with every design. Once you finish, there is sometimes a small “prize.” It is basically a game to keep children entertained while touring places.
These are some examples (I will upload more later):
While I do not normally participate in these, sometimes I still enjoy adding a stamp to one of my travel books as a reminder of my visit. It’s kinda cute. It has even started to get high-tech as some big tourist sites will have an app and you scan QR codes at various locations to “collect stamps.”
All this aside, I have another theory as to why stamp rallies exist, but first some background. Personal stamps/seals, called “hanko” 判子 or “inkan” 印鑑, are important in daily life as an adult… it is necessary for bank accounts, receiving packages, school registration, legal transactions… etc! Even as a foreigner, I have a small hanko that I use for just these purposes. Honestly, these seals really are surprisingly used every day; my graduation certificate and school ID have imprints of the university and president’s seal, many documents need to have my advisor’s or sensei’s seal on them, during the university physical exam I need to “pass” each section to get each individual doctor or nurse’s seals, I even personally have to use my seal to log in my research assistance hours. I have taken to using my seal instead of my signature for whenever the delivery driver drops off packages ordered from the internet. Basically, it is like a personal signature. So… my point is, I believe that stamp rallies are just practice for small children to gather or collect stamps as they will need to in adulthood! Seriously, it is like preparation for life. Get your papers stamped because in order to get through life in Japan, you need people to stamp your papers so you can move forward or gain accomplishments (as an adult, these are our “prizes”).
Next time I get my university physical exam, I will take a photo of my own personal stamp rally I must complete in order to prove my health. It is literally a stamp card that I take to various stations where certain aspects of my health are evaluated. Each section of the card gets filled out with details and each doctor/nurse stamps the section to prove that I “passed.” The first time I had to do this, all I could think about were the children I saw at Shuri-jo racing around and filling out their stamp rally so they could get their sticker prize at the end.
にんにく Ninniku means garlic in Japanese; in Okinawan it is ヒル hiru. Some of my neighbors grow lots of fresh island garlic for cheap, so I am particularly lucky. In Japan, Aomori (towards the north) is a large garlic-producing region, but the garlic is rather expensive. Many stores sell garlic imported from China for cheap. So when Okinawa garlic season is in full swing, I take advantage and buy a lot, because it is fresh, tasty, and cheap. It is not as dried out as other garlic, so it tends to have a fresher scent, and perhaps a bit sharper taste.
Recently, I have made some batches of ninniku-shuu にんにく酒~~ oishii! In Okinawan, it is known as hiru-zaki ヒルザキ, although some people may even refer to it as にんにく泡盛 ninniku awamori. I have heard some people drink this (?!!) as sort of a medicinal thing, but I cannot help but imagine that is simply too strong. It is also used as a condiment for cooking, and especially goes really good in stir-fry dishes. Basically the garlic soaks in the awamori (or other strong clear liquor of one’s choice) while the garlicky essence permeates the liquid… sort of like making an extract I guess. Anyhow, it is actually really good, and with all this local garlic, it is a good way to capture the flavor when fresh garlic becomes scarce in the later months.
On the mainland, I think most people use something referred to as “white liquor” ホワイトリカー or shochu 焼酎 to make ninniku-shu. In Okinawa, of course the local favorite would be awamori. So… awamori it is for me, as well.
koregusu (left, chili awamori) and ninniku-shu (right, garlic awamori)
local Okinawa garlic
ninniku-shu (JP) or hiruzaki (OKI), garlic awamori
Hirayachi is considered Okinawan okonomiyaki, but I think it resembles Korean chijimi (チヂミ in Japanese). The word hirayachi means to “fry flat.” This is a popular snack food and izakaya food, I think because it is simple yet delicious, as well as easy to eat.
It is a pancake type of batter with only a few ingredients: flour, egg, water, salt/pepper, and green onion mixed together, plus a little oil to fry in the pan with. To serve, most people top with shaved katsuobushi (or bonito flakes) and with either Worcestershire, yakisoba sauce, or okonomiyaki sauce (whatever you prefer). I confess that I will typically use Bulldog brand tonkatsu sauce to serve, and add some pickled ginger on the side.
ハーリー haarii, or in Itoman called ハーレー haaree, are dragon boat races. In Okinawa on May 4th of the lunar calendar, just as the rainy season comes to a close, the season of haari begins! There are races enarly every weekend through July.
It is a festival for fishermen to pray for a large catch and safe sailing. In Okinawan language, fishermen are called “uminchu” うみんちゅ (海人). The festival comes from China a few hundred years ago. There are several locations within Okinawa that Haari is held; the most famous are in Itoman and Naha. The is also a festival and race in Oujima (some people spell it Ojima) 奥武島, the island of tempura!
In Shuri, near the castle, I teach 英会話 eikawa; “English Conversation.” My class is predominantly “older” Okinawan/Japanese women (although the 1 man is actually a rather well known figure within Okinawa, and has recently won a special award from the Emperor). After class, sometimes I will take lunch with them, and we usually go to this cute restaurant located within a women’s mental health clinic. 喫茶 kissa means like coffee/tea cafe, so I usually just call this place Cafe Ufu.
Cafe Ufu is on the small side, only a few tables, and a tatami room for larger parties. The menu is pretty simple; usually people just order the set of the day, which comes with a variety of carefully prepared, healthful Japanese dishes. Everything there always tastes so good, and I usually feel pretty genki afterwards. Plus is is so reasonably priced ~800yen!
Even though it is next to a women’s mental health clinic, it is not just for women, so men should visit, too. Although the meals might be more geared towards ladies in mind!
There are a fair number of temples (tera 寺) and shrines (jinja 神社) in Okinawa, however, most of them are maybe not as historic or grand as you might see on the mainland.
成田山福泉寺 Naritasan Fukusenji is the temple in my town. It sits upon the hill facing the ocean. I visit there during important yearly events, such as New Years and Setsubun.
Omamori お守り are amulets or protective charms you can purchase from the temple. They come in many forms, colors, types; some are for safe driving, some for success in school, some are for health, some for love… There are some traditions around these, which some people do not necessarily observe. After a year (usually, but I will not lie, I often keep mine longer than that), you should take back to a temple to have them perform a ritual and burn it, and then obviously purchase a new one. I usually only keep my New Years omamori for a year and then return them during the next New Year; others, especially ones from places I have visited, such as Kyoto, I tend to keep until they look a bit worn.
Wood prayer boards, called ema 絵馬, are often sold as well (more common at shrines, but temples nowadays often sell these as well). You write messages of prayer, such as wishes for happiness, health, success in school, love/marriage, safety, etc, and hang them up by the shrine (so the gods, or “kami” 神, can receive them). The ema have pictures representing the temple, or perhaps the zodiac year, on the back; usually there are a few designs you can choose from. There are no real rules as to what or how to write on an ema, so just have fun.
How to pray at a Shinto Shrine (temples are less rigid, although some of the procedure can be the same):
purify oneself at the water pavilion: using your right hand, take a ladle, and scoop water. Pour a little over you left hand, then switch an pour over your right hand, then in your left hand take some water from the ladle and rinse your mouth, and finally empty the remaining water (on the ground, not back into the water basin). You should only scoop water once. When you finish, use your hand towel to dry you hands. You will notice many people in Japan carry around small personal towels in their bags, and if you visit, I highly recommend also having one for instances such as these.
toss a coin gently into the offering box (preferably with hole in it, 5円 or 50 円)
ring the bell (if there is one)
bow twice
clap twice
pray (silently)
bow once
And done! Pretty easy. All being said, sometimes procedure can switch up depending on where you are, so just follow what locals do when you feel uncertain.
Lastly, let’s cover drawing fortunes, known as omikuji おみくじ. There will be a box or a coin slot machine labeled おみくじ. Some places will have English fortunes, some only Japanese. It is usually 100円, although it can be more if it comes with a small charm of some sort (if it is a small frog charm, put it in your wallet, it is said to “attract” money). Fortunes will have a category, ranging in different types of luck, from very good to very bad:
Great blessing (dai-kichi, 大吉)
Middle blessing (chuu-kichi, 中吉)
Small blessing (shou-kichi, 小吉)
Blessing (kichi, 吉)
Half-blessing (han-kichi, 半吉)
Ending blessing (sue-kichi, 末吉)
Ending small blessing (sue-shou-kichi, 末小吉)
Curse (kyou, 凶)
Small curse (shou-kyou, 小凶)
Half-curse (han-kyou, 半凶)
Ending curse (sue-kyou, 末凶)
Great curse (dai-kyou, 大凶)
On the rest of the paper, it describes your luck or fortune in various aspects of your life. Most of the Japanese used is fairly complicated, so it is good if you can have someone fluent explain it to you. Once you read your fortune, if it is bad, you tie it to a tree branch at the shrine or temple, to stave off the curse; if it is good, you keep it close to you (in your wallet or purse perhaps). That being said, I have also heard if it is good you tie it to a tree branch in order for it to come true! So, I think sometimes, there are no “right” or “wrong” ways. Just have fun.
Setsubun, sakura at Narita-san temple, Nakagusuku village
water basin for cleansing/purifying
torii 鳥居 (gate)
Nagano area
Naminoue Shrine, Naha, Okinawa
New Years, Narita-san temple, Nakagusuku
Guardian lions, Nagano area
tanuki (raccoon statue) at shrine, Nagano area
Ema at daruma temple, in Shuri, Okinawa
While there are many small shrines scattered around, here are the addresses for the “larger” temples and shrines worth visiting in Okinawa:
