EM Products in Okinawa

EM stands for effective microorganisms; some are lactic acid bacteria, which are probiotics to promote digestive health, and some are added to the soil or water to promote environmental health. EM products are rather popular in Okinawa.

For starters, EM milk is my husband’s favorite. The microorganisms are added to the water  and feed to promote healthier cows and healthier milk production. Somehow the milk does taste fresher, whether or not the microorganisms are scientifically effective. Anyway, you can find this milk in all the stores here in Okinawa.

From EM milk, comes EM ice cream. There are a few stands around the island selling this ice cream, and one happens to be not too far from my house. It is located outside the Nakagusuku furniture mall Yonashiro. It kinda looks like it might be an abandoned shack with a pink awning, but it is in fact open. Try it.

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EM Ice Cream shack in Nakagusuku

Another product that I love is EM mayo made by みやぎ農園 Miyagi farm. It is sold in many farmers markets and SanA grocery stores here in Okinawa. It may be more expensive, but it is definitely worth it.

And lastly, I will come to one of my favorite places, Sun Monte EM Bakery. This is a small bakery near the university, with an amazing variety of goods. I always see kids visiting after school, and housewives picking up bread here, it is an extremely popular neighborhood bakery. This place uses EM products in their baking, and the taste is amazing. I have not really visited much in Europe, so I will not pretend to know exactly what rustic European bakeries taste like, but I have to imagine this must be pretty close. I am constantly impressed with the goodies I get from this place.

You can find some EM Markets around the island selling these products.

If you want to grow your own veggies and fruits, you can even pick up EM fertilizers from some markets and JA ag supply stores.

address for Sun Monte Bakery: 〒901-2213 沖縄県宜野湾市志真志4-32-14

Black Garlic: 黒にんにく

黒 kuro mean “black” and にんにく ninniku means “garlic.”

In Okinawa, it is possible to find black garlic. It is island garlic, raw, aged under heat and humidity for a period of time (no additives), turning the garlic softer and sweeter. It retains a fragrant garlic aroma, but does actually does not cause the strong garlic breath after eating. It is a really nice (and supposedly healthy) flavor to add to recipes.

 

Island Carrots: 島人参

Shima ninjin 島人参 or 島にんじん are Okinawa island carrots.

Nakagusuku village, where I live, is known in Okinawa for its carrots. The village mascot, Gosamaru (named for the Ryukuan lord of Nakagusuku region), wields a fan (うちわ, uchiwa) in one hand and a carrot in the other. He adorns the side of buses, banners, and important landmarks. He also shows up to events and matsuri, even to anti-drunk-driving rallies (held at the empty lot by the town sign across from our house).

Tsuken-jima, a.k.a. Carrot Island, is located off the coast (you can see this island from the second story of my house). Tsuken-jima is also known for carrots (obviously). Technically, this island is considered a part of Nakagusuku town area, although it can only be accessed by ferry.

Most of the carrots grown here are orange, but some varieties come in yellow or purple. I think they are pretty tasty, and I really advocate supporting local farms and businesses. It always tastes fresher closer to the source.

 

Izakaya: 居酒屋

Izakaya are Japanese-style bars. But these are really nothing like American-style bars.

Often there will be an all-you-can-eat (食べ放題 tabehoudai) and all-you-can-drink (飲み放題 nomihoudai) option, which has a time interval, 90 minutes, 2 hours, or even up to 3 hours. Sometimes this is a bit risky, and you encounter some cheap, watered down beer… usually it depends on the pricing and the place. Most dishes are meant to be shared and are more appetizer style then full meals.

Izakaya are a great place to hold an informal gathering of coworkers, friends, classmates, etc. I have found Japanese people get much louder and outspoken at these gatherings, it is a good place to learn about people. For instance, I participate in a hula dance class once a week and we held a 忘年会 bonenkai (end of the year party) at a local izakaya to celebrate the success of our Christmas show. After months of nervously struggling to express myself in Japanese, I found out one of the members speaks somewhat decent English and studied at a US university for 3 years. Sigh. So, maybe I will use English when I am stuck on Japanese now.

A word of warning: some places have a “sitting” fee, which basically ensures that you spend some minimum amount. They will bring out a small appetizer dish that is “required” to purchase. Usually it is cheap, ~300円; this is done in lieu of an entrance fee. This is called “otoshi” お通し.

A tip: if you want draft beer, just order “nama” 生 (and how many you want). Draft beer is nama bi-ru 生ビール, and for short, just nama will do.

Another thing to remember: the drinking and driving BAC is very low 0.03, so always take advantage of public transport, taxi, or DAIKO services! DAIKO is a service in Japan, where someone will drive your car home for you (teamed up with a taxi). It is very convenient and fairly cheap, just a little more than a regular taxi one-way. And much cheaper than a DUI.


In Okinawa, one of the izakaya I like is called Paikaji ぱいかじ and it has a location near to the university. It is more local food and has Ryukuan entertainment on weekends. You and your party get a private room (with a bing-bong so you can ring for the staff when you want to order something), unlike in a western bar. It also has cheap beer specials.

Next time you are in Japan or Okinawa, be sure to stop by a local izakaya (the more salary men, the better).

 

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Paikaji address: 〒901-2211 沖縄県宜野湾市宜野湾3丁目15−19

枝豆: Edamame, the perfect porch snack

Edamame are soybeans still in the shell. You boil them for a few minutes, drain, grind some salt on top to serve. You can serve them warm or chilled, although I tend to prefer chilled. Also, always serve with an extra bowl for the empty shells.

You can buy them frozen all year round, but right now, they are in season here in Okinawa (and will be gone soon, as the season here is always too short). So now is the time I can enjoy them fresh, and to take maximum advantage of this, I recommend a cold beer and enjoying them outside.

Honey: 蜂蜜

The Japanese word for honey is hachimitsu 蜂蜜 or はちみつ. A lot of the honey in the grocery stores is imported. So where to buy really local honey?

I will share with you a hidden secret, nestled in the hills of Yanbaru in Okinawa. Few gaijin know of this small honey farm, shop, and cafe. It is called 蜜蜂ファーム・ときわ Bee Farm Tokiwa and カフェしゃしくまーる Cafe Shashi Kuma-ru.

It is a bit of a drive, and at one point I though for sure I was on the wrong path, but follow your GPS and you are sure to find it.

Once I arrived, I nervously entered, unsure if it was open… but it was! So I ordered a drink and cake, then sampled some honey. It was so tasty! It was quite serene, tucked away in the mountain. Time seemed to move slower. Sort of the type of cafe and nature you see in Ghibli movies that makes you want to visit Japan. If you want, you can wander and look at the honeybee boxes.

The address:〒905-1141沖縄県名護市源河2523-5 (オーシッタイ)

One of the pictures posted shows a crude map… you might need it…!

 

Summer festivals: 夏祭り

Natsu-matsuri. Matsuri 祭り (or just 祭) means festival, and natsu 夏 means “summer.”

In Japan, summer seems to start around July 15th, and so does the matsuri season. In Okinawa, there are usually multiple matsuri every weekend through September and even into October. Almost every Saturday and Sunday night the sky will be illuminated by fireworks (hanabi 花火) and the sounds of Okinawan eisa dance (エイサー) echo in the night air. In Okinawa, you will see the strings of Orion lanterns illuminating the paths and and smells will waft from the tents hawking foods.

Every town and village will host their own matsuri; men and women, from children to older folks will wear yukata 浴衣 and jinbei 甚平. Even I own a very classy black jinbei with Hello Kitty x OnePiece on it. Err, well, it is sort of tomboyish, but I find it cute and comfortable… I am pretty sure I would feel weird in a girly yukata. As a note, many westerners do not seem to realize the difference between kimono 着物 and yukata 浴衣. Kimono is very formal and layered, it would be odd to see kimono outside of formal events like weddings, graduations, or New Years Day. Yukata are light and thin, perfect for summer! They are more casual and are easier to put on. And wayyyy cheaper! Formal kimono are usually thousands of dollars (and therefore many people simply rent them instead of buying).

There are performances, games, food, and of course drinks of the alcoholic variety! Oh and they always hand out fans (うちわ uchiwa) as a means of advertising.

If you are in Okinawa or Japan during the summer season, you must attend one.

Farm Boxes in Okinawa

If you drive about some of the more “rural” parts of Okinawa, you may notice small wooden stands with vegetables and fruit. They are unmanned, with an honor box to collect money. You might not recognize them at first, as some of them may look a bit run down or in odd places alongside the road. This is where you get the best deals on produce. Fortunately for me, there are about a dozen within walking distance of my house.

I always stop when I see them… you never know what you will find. Tomatoes, beets, onions, fresh garlic, lettuce, random greens, cabbage, potatoes, watermelon, dragonfruit… the list goes on. When you find something you like, drop the payment in the box and say “いただきます!” itadakimasu! Translation: I will receive (eat) this well, or something to that effect. It is also said before meals, as a thanks.

 

Orange Sweet Potatoes: 黄金芋

黄金芋, pronounced Ougon-imo here in Okinawa, are a variety of orange sweet potato grown in the Ikei-jima, Uruma area. This potato is related to the famous annou-imo grown in Kagoshima! It is very sweet and creamy. So delicious. It is even better than the American orange sweet potatoes.

Ougon-imo actually were not grown in Okinawa until ~15 years ago when a local farmer decided to try to boost the economy in Ikei-jima! Anyway, they have since become popular.

So if satsuma-imo (yellow sweet potato, purple skin) do not work for your recipes, ougon-imo might be the perfect fit. Look for ougon-imo in farmers markets near Uruma and Okinawa, especially. You might see them elsewhere, but your best bet is always closest to the source.

P.S. Ikei-jima is connected to Okinawa mainland by a bridge, so you can drive there!

Naha’s Yatai mura: 屋台村

屋台 yatai: street-style dining
村 mura: village

Previously, I wrote about Fukuoka’s yatai restaurants. Okinawa does not really have any yatai quite like this, however, a few years ago, a “yatai mura” (street for yatai stalls) was established in Naha nearby Kokusai-dori. It is sort of touristy, but fun. There are a few small restaurants set up, similar to a yatai-style street. You sit at counters surrounding the chef’s cooking area with other patrons and so it is easy to have the feeling of yatai-dining. There is also an entertainment stage where they hold performances and events. It is a unique nightlife that you can find here in Okinawa, so if you have never visited yatai before, it is a good opportunity to discover the atmosphere of yatai.

The chef-san at the fried skewer (kushikatsu 串カツ) restaurant posed with us:

Sangwachi gwashi: 三月菓子

サングァチグァーシ (or also spelled サングヮチグヮーシ) Sangwachi gwashi is the Okinawan words for third month (March) sweets. In kanji it looks like 三月菓子, the first 2 characters meaning 3rd month (san gatsu in Japanese) and the next 2 characters meaning sweets/snacks (kashi in Japanese).

Why March? Because of Girls Day! But this is during the lunar calendar (which Okinawans still use to celebrate traditional/religious holidays, unlike most mainland Japanese).

Sangwachi gwashi is very similar to sata andagi, except it is longer and slightly different dough. It is sort of a sweetened fried dough. It is traditionally eaten at the beach on March 3rd of the lunar year (旧暦の3月3日), Hamauri 浜下り, the Okinawa version of Girls Day. On Hamauri, Okinawan families take their daughters down the beach and purify them with ocean water.

This year, one of my dear students made some for me to enjoy and it was indeed delicious. I am fortunate to teach Eikawa (English Conversation) to a group of older ladies and one gentleman; honestly they teach me as much as I teach them.

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Sanpin-cha: さんぴん茶

さんぴん茶 sanpin-cha is the popular Okinawa jasmine tea!  Sanpin-cha is considered Chinese-style tea, with a lovely fragrance.  On the mainland it is usually labelled ジャスミン茶 Jasumin-cha. Typically it also has a lower caffeine content than regular tea.

It has been a favorite in the islands since the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom hundreds of years ago. Originating with the trade between the Ryukyu Kingdom and China, the tea is an example of the mixture of Chinese and Japanese influence in the islands.

You can find it in cans (as shown below), bottles, tea bags or loose tea in every grocery store and market here in Okinawa. There is usually a really pretty Ryukuan or island flower design, so it is very eye-catching. Sanpin-cha is not sweetened, so I think some Americans do not care for the taste, but it is very refreshing and zero calories which is good for you. I think just about conbini and vending machine in Okinawa sells cans or bottles; every time there is a lab BBQ or get together, sanpin-cha is guaranteed to be there. I know some people who make a cocktail from sanpin-cha and awamori (island liquor). IMG_4785

I also like this one with the shisa design:

Yushi-doufu: ゆし豆腐

Yushi-doufu is island (shima) tofu still in the liquid. It is fluffy and not pressed or formed. You can buy it at any grocery store in Okinawa, sold warm in plastic bags next to the other shima-doufu.

To eat it, it is usually just eaten in a bowl garnished with some green onion and maybe some shoyu. Sometimes it will be added to miso soup or bonito/konbu broth. The yushi-doufu has a rice soy flavor you do not normally see in regular tofu dishes.

Many Okinawa soba (suba) restaurants will serve it as yushi-doufu soba. Okinawa noodles and yushi-doufu are served up in a pig bone broth soup, with simmered pork cartilage (called soki ソーキ), fried eggs strips, and konbu.

Yushi-doufu is uncommon to find outside of Okinawa, so it is a must-try whenever you visit. I think one of the most important things you must try in Okinawa is yushi-doufu; it shows the how amazing tofu can taste, completely different from the pre-packaged kinds from the regular grocery stores. For people who claim to not like tofu, I think they should all try yushi-doufu, and it may very well change their views.

Kuruma Ebi: 車海老

海老, えび, or エビ ebi means shrimp. Here in Okinawa, there is very famous shrimp named Kuruma ebi. Oddly, kuruma 車 means car or vehicle… I do not know the meaning behind this shrimps name.

There are a few famous areas to indulge in fresh kuruma ebi (not frozen!).

On Kume-jima 久米島, there are many kuruma ebi farms and most restaurants use fresh ebi in their dishes. On our overnight trip to Kume-jima, my husband ate 3 out 4 meals kuruma ebi at different restaurants, they were so fresh. Fried, grilled, sauteed, etc, he could not get enough. Kume-jima is a short 35 minute plane  ride from Okinawa main island, or 4 hour ferry ride.

On Okinawa mainland, there is a famous farm, shop and restaurant in Ginoza which is located in the northern part of the island. We have not been yet but all the pictures look so good.

In the southern part of the island located in Nanjo, there are some kuruma ebi farms where you can buy them fresh.

Probably in the Makishi public market in downtown Naha you can also purchase kuruma ebi, but I do not go there often, just have seen pictures.

Ginoza Ebi farm and restaurant map link: https://goo.gl/maps/TqVcDHTQotB2

Winter melon: 冬瓜

冬瓜 tougan in Japanese, シブイ shibui in Okinawan means “winter melon.”

Many Americans buy tougan thinking it is a watermelon… and then are very surprised. I guess it kinda looks similar, but not really. Tougan is another staple in Okinawan recipes.

Tougan is harvested in warm weather, but is able stay good for many months, so it is basically a year-round vegetable here.

Many people add it to stews or soups; I especially see it added to miso soups to make them more hearty. The vegetable itself can be a bit watery, and does not have much taste by itself, but it will soak in the flavors it cooks with. Also it is fairly cheap, making it popular here in Okinawa.

There is even a delicious Ryukyuan delicacy made out of this vegetable: Tougatsuke: 冬瓜漬. I recently visited an amazing little Ryukuan sweets shop that served this tougan “candy.”

Shibui-no-hi シブイの日 (Winter melon day) is on April 10th. They decided this by using “shi” from shibui, 4, and “tou” from tougan, 10. So 4/10, April 10th, is winter melon day.


I will find some more recipes and add them, but here is one to get started:

Tougan no shiri-shiri (Shredded winter melon salad) 冬瓜のシリシリー: シリシリー shirishiri refers to the way the tougan is cut, basically to shred. It is common style in Okinawa; often you see carrot shirishiri, but today, we can use it with tougan.

Tougan, ~400g shredded
1/2 cucumber shredded
*optional: fake crab, shredded
salt, 1 teaspoon
shoyu, 2.5 teaspoons
sesame oil, 1 tsp
vinegar, 3.5 teaspoons
sugar, 1/2 tsp
ra-yu ラー油 (type of chili oil) 3 drops or to taste
sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon

Peel wash, and shirishiri (shred) with a slicer. Add the tougan to a bowl and salt, let it sit and then drain to get some moisture out. Add cucumber (and the crab if using), and combine the seasonings, mixing well. Chill and serve.

 

 

Watermelon: スイカ

Suika スイカ is the Japanese word for watermelon. Watermelon are a summer food here, and when I see them sold in the grocery stores, there is often a speaker playing cicada chirping by them (as a way of advertising, but it seems a bit odd to me). The prices for watermelon can be quite steep here; in a regular store it typically starts at 800円 at the cheapest, but often is more like 2000円. I mentioned in another post that westerners will frequently buy tougan 冬瓜 thinking they got a great deal on watermelon (tougan are probably like 300円) and then suffer disappointment when they cut it open. Alas, if you see a large elongated green produce, no stripes, for a cheap price– IT IS NOT WATERMELON! I was really surprised when I first heard of foreigners doing this… I think this is why it is so important to learn some basic Japanese while living here, even if it is only for a short time. Mistaking winter melon for a watermelon never really occurred to me, perhaps because I was  fairly immersed in Japanese language from the moment I arrived on the island, not really protected by the culture of the American bases.

Nakijin town is famous in Okinawa for its watermelons. During the middle of summer, if you drive up to the Motobu peninsula, you can often find small roadside farm stands selling (imperfect) watermelon as cheap as 500円! Roadside stands are amazing; it allows farmers to sell produce at an unmanned stand where customers simply drop the payment in the collections box. If you see a small wooden stand on a rural road, stop and check it out. My neighborhood has a bounty of these boxes and I am always getting cheap fruits and vegetables from my neighbors small gardens. Talk about eating local. Occasionally some farmers will drive their vans down to the southern or central parts of the island to sell their produce slightly cheaper than the stores– my advice, always stop, you usually get a decent deal.

There is an old-fashioned watermelon smashing game played by children (and just as often adults…) in Japan called suika-wari スイカ割り. Usually it is played on the beach; the watermelon is put on a mat and it is a bit like piñata. One at a time, a player is blindfolded and tries to crack open the watermelon with a stick, and the first to crack it open wins. IMG_0303

 

 

Cherry blossoms: Sakura 桜

桜 or さくら sakura are cherry blossoms. Here in Okinawa, sakura are a bit different. For one, they start at the end of January (the rest of Japan starts in mid-March, April or even May usually). Second, they are usually a different species of sakura,  called kanhi zakura 寒緋桜 (also known as hikan-zakura), which actually from Taiwan and southern China– instead of the cute fluffy pink, they tend to be a darker shade of pink. Still pretty, but not quite as voluminous and dramatic as sakura on the Japan mainland. Third, our sakura blooms start NORTH to SOUTH! On mainland Japan, the sakura wave starts in the south (warmer weather) and slowly makes it way to up north (Hokkaido has blooms in May!). But here in Okinawa it is reverse, our trees actually start blooming up in the northern part of the island and gradually spreads to the south. A bit strange.

So sakura season tends to be a bit of a different feeling here. That being said, my first spring here, the blossoms on my university street were towards the end of their blooming period and along came a gust of wind, showering me with petals as I walked along. Seriously, I thought that only happened in anime and drama?!

People here still eat some sakura sweets, like sakura mochi and sakura ice cream, and the stores will be inundated with sakura related products and foods during this time of year.

Sadly I have not had a chance to visit the Japan mainland during sakura season. Yet. Hopefully next year I will have some time.

Keep in mind sakura trees are all over and you do not necessarily have to go to a crowded place to enjoy them. Really, I like to simply enjoy some on my campus during lunch hours! You may even spot several hills or small parks with a few trees– pull over and enjoy them without the crowds. You can even enjoy sakura at night!

However, there are some larger festivals in Okinawa for sakura-viewing (Hanami 花見, literally “flower watching”); here are some places to check out:

North: usually in bloom end of January, early February.

Nago: it is pretty enough, but definitely full of Americans. Park at the fishing port and walk up. Traffic here is awful, so go early and just be prepared. Park here:  https://goo.gl/maps/Cnx9hzTWd2z then walk here:  https://goo.gl/maps/4rdkPQHyof12

Nakijin Castle Ruins: Very pretty with the castle ruins as a backdrop. Everyone should try and see this site at least once. Traffic is still not great up here since it is a popular site, and also wear decent shoes. Usually there is a stand with sakura ice cream. 沖縄県国頭郡今帰仁村今泊5101 https://goo.gl/maps/1McvvaonwGt

Mount Yaedake: Probably the best location in my opinion– natural scenery, mountain-scape. There will be traffic but if you go early you will not deal with as much. 沖縄県本部町並里921 https://goo.gl/maps/GMFbfT13Rnt

South:

Naha Yogi Park: Early-late Feb. parking in the area is not so easy, so you may have to find a pay lot and walk. 沖縄県那覇市与儀1-1 https://goo.gl/maps/GAFEfWKJwSk

Manko Park, Naha: Mid-February. A nice park to walk around.  https://goo.gl/maps/UjyV2t79xHx

Yaese Park: Very late January to mid-February. Another nice park and a light-up in the evenings. 沖縄県八重瀬町富盛1637 https://goo.gl/maps/9YJQkpR83H42

**Missed sakura the first time around in Okinawa? Here is your second opportunity to see a special type of sakura located in Motobu (North) during mid-March into early April: Kume-no-Sakura: クメノサクラ

 

 

Tsukimi: 月見

Tsuki-mi means “moon-watching,” tsuki= moon and mi= to watch/see. You will also hear moon-viewing festivals referred to as uchichiumachii ウチチウマチー(お月お祭り) in Okinawa language.

There are 2x you are supposed to view the full moon in Japanese culture. The first is Jugoya 十五夜 (also romanized Juugoya, translation “15th night”), held on August 15 of the lunar calendar; in Okinawan it is called Juuguya じゅーぐや. You may also often see it referred to as 中秋の名月 chuushuu no meigetsu, Mid-autumn moon festival or harvest festival. The second is Jusanya 十三夜 (also romanized Juusanya, translation “13th night”), September 13 of the lunar calendar. Jusanya is also referred to as 後の月 nochi no tsuki (later moon). It is often thought to bring bad luck to celebrate only Jugoya, since the 2 moon-viewing days are related.

In Okinawa, there are some special types of “mooncakes” called fuchagi ふちゃぎ, that are eaten. It is mochi, a.k.a. “rice cakes” (possibly flavored with brown sugar, yomogi/mugwort, beniimo, or just plain) covered in azuki beans. I will add more posts about beans in the future, but basically beans are known to drive out or keep away demons (oni 鬼). I have no real good idea as to why beans hold such mystical powers, but almost every holiday or celebration involves beans in some way.

For my celebration, I mixed in a little Chinese mooncakes, as well as Okinawan fuchagi, and Japanese dango 団子. Very multi-cultural. I also drank some wine, set up some pampas (susuki ススキ) grass, but did not write any poetry (haiku 俳句)… sorry Moon.

There is also a children’s song; Japanese people believe you can see a rabbit pounding mochi in the moon. The song and translation is something like this:

うさぎ うさぎ             Rabbit, rabbit

うさぎ うさぎ            Rabbit, rabbit
何見て はねる            What are you watching while hopping/leaping around?
十五夜お月さま            The Juugoya moon
見てはねる                is what I watch while hopping/leaping around!

In Itoman, a large Tug-of-War (tsunahiki) is held on Juugoya; many places will have lion dances 獅子舞 (shishimai) or other festive events, such as hounen-matsuri  豊年祭 (Harvest festivals), during this time of year, to celebrate the moon, the changing of seasons, and harvest time.

Shuri-jo holds a Mid-Autumn banquet (Chuushuu no utage 中秋の宴) festival around Juugoya and Autumn Equinox. During the era of the Ryukyu Kingdom, a banquet was held to entertain the Chinese emperor envoys, and today a moon-viewing party reenacts the “Mid-Autumn Banquet” in the present day. There is a parade, and a King and Queen contest is held. At this festival, you can see kumiodori (traditional Ryukyuan dance), beautiful costumes, and traditional music, as the castle is lit up at night.

In Okinawa, Juugoya is also falls on one of the days for taking care of the family hinukan (read more on the link).

 

Grocery Stores: スーパー

スーパー “suupaa” is the Japanese-English name for grocery store.

In Okinawa, there are a few different grocery store chains, as well as a wealth of farmers markets. This is a list of the grocery stores you can find here in Okinawa.

*Many use romaji in their name instead of kana! Later I will try to add in their logos for quick recognition. If you copy and paste the Japanese name of the store into GoogleMaps it will show you the closest location to you.


SanA サンエー: This is a local chain; some are malls (with grocery) and some are just grocery stores. They are distinctive with the yellow sign with 3 red triangles. There is a point card that you can get at the information desk; for every 200円 you spend, you earn 1 point and after some obscene number of points you earn 1000円 discount certificate. You can only earn points when you pay cash (not credit card).

Kanehide かねひで: This chain has a green sign with 2 little orange birds. They are also part of a DIY store called Cainz.

Union ユニオン: This store has “UNION” in red lettering on front. Union often has low prices for many things, but perhaps lacks a bit in variety.

Gyomu Super 業務スーパー: This is an interesting store, with some imports and “bulk” items, even some halal items. I say “bulk” as this is Japanese bulk, not really Costco or anything. They usually do small restaurant supply type items.

Marudai 丸大: This chain has 3 birds on the logo. There are not very close to me, but they have good variety. There are quite a few near Naha, and one in Yomitan.

Ryubo リウボウ: Ryubo has recently been remodeling a few of the stores into more upscale versions… a lot of import items, rare items… expensive items. But some really nice variety when you want to find something special. I think some of the un-renovated stores still exist and are not quite as nice, but luckily I live near the newly redone versions.

APrice A-プライス: Another “bulk” store. The logo has a little red chef on it. Sometimes they have some import items, and interesting variety. I don’t go here on a regular basis, or with a list of needs… I usually just browse to see what they have that I want to cook with.

ACoop: This store is associated with JA (Japan Agriculture). I have a small branch within walking distance of my house. Despite being small, I can often find essentials here, but nothing fancy.

CO-OP: Not be confused with ACoop, this store has a red apple logo on it. I do not have any close to me, so it is a rare occasion that I go here. There are some organic items here, however. The workers often go to anti-military base protests, in case that bothers you. It does not bother me particularly, so if there was one close it probably would not stop me from shopping there.

Aeon イオン: Major mainland chain, malls and grocery stores. You can buy a Waon card and load it up with yen. Then if you use it to pay at check out, you earn points. Points earned turned into yen reloaded on your card. Plus it makes a cute barking sound when you pay. Overall, more expensive than some of the other chain groceries.

Aeon Big Express ザビッグエクスプレス: related to above, a more discount version. Usually nothing fancy, but it has the essentials.

MaxValueマックスバリュ: also related to above, another “discount” version, but usually a little nicer than the BigExpress.


Next time, perhaps a look at some of the farmers markets where the best prices on produce can be found.

 

山の茶屋楽水: Yama-no-chaya Rakusui

山の茶屋 Yama-no-chaya means “mountain tea house.”

Located in Nanjo (南城市), the southern area of Okinawa, this charming restaurant is quite popular and offers beautiful views, delicious food, and a garden walk. It is very popular, so it is important to show up early. It has a sister restaurant called Hamabe-no-chaya 浜辺の茶屋 (meaning “teahouse by the beach”), a few meters down the way located on the beach front and offering a more casual menu. Hamabe-no-chaya also has nice view overlooking the ocean, but I much prefer the food at Yama-no-chaya.

From the parking lot, you will see some walking sticks at the base of the stairs; feel free to use these, although the “climb” is not difficult, it may make it easier for elders or fun for children. When you get to the restaurant, they will present you with an English menu if you do not look Japanese. Try to get one of the window seats on the top floor if possible, although the entire inside is gorgeous.

We order a wood-fired pizza, salad, and the Sachibaru set meal, which is a vegetarian teishoku: it usually comes as miso/asa/tofu soup, tenpura, purple rice, pickles, umibudou, fruit, jimami tofu, konbu/konnyaku side dish, some kind of leafy green and peanut sauce, and sweetened barley. It may change a bit depending on the season, but the set meal is really so amazing. A must-try.

 

Sachibaru-no-niwa さちばるの庭 is the name of the gardens on the premise, and if you eat there you can enter the gardens for free. It is a very pleasant area to walk after lunch, however be sure to utilize their free bug spray during summer months.

Not only this, but it is reasonably priced! For the two of us it ends up to by ~3000円 since we do not hold back, but overall the quality is well worth this price.

I can never understand why gaikokujin insist on going to the low-quality and overly touristy restaurant in the area (I will not comment the name, but ask any gaijin about “food with a view in southern Okinawa” and they will probably mention something about “thai in the sky,” a place I highly do not recommend!) when such a wonderful place like Yama-no-chaya exists!

Address: 〒901-0604 沖縄県南城市玉城字玉城2-1


BONUS: Hamabe-no-chaya pictures. This place shares the same parking lot as its sister restaurant, so just copy & paste the same address into google maps. You can sit inside or outside, or even on the rooftop tables. Here you will be closer to the beach.

Sugarcane: サトウキビ

Satoukibi サトウキビ is Japanese for sugarcane. And here in Okinawa, there is a lot of it. Nearby my house are many sugar cane fields, and often in summer while it grows tall we down the quiet roads lined with sugarcane, listening to the rustling in the wind and the insects. In some ways, it is very Ghibli-like, and that is when I realize I really live in the Japanese countryside.

Okinawa is famous for the product of sugarcane, brown sugar (黒糖 kokutou), sold in every store, market, and tourist shop.

In our neighboring town, there is a products fair about once a year. It features a toumitsu 糖蜜 (sugarcane molasses) contest, where the ojiisans sit around drinking awamori while pressing/boiling sugarcane from their fields. I guess there are awards or something, but as far as I could tell it was really an excuse for ojiisans to drink and gossip. They did let us try their products though, which were quite delicious.

Cafe & Restaurant Magazines

Wander into any bookstore in Okinawa and you will see a variety of local guides to food (not paid ads!). These guides are typically less than 1000円 (10 USD). Although they are in Japanese, they are great resources; simply look at the pictures for each place and whatever looks good, find it on the map insert, or better yet put the phone number into google maps. Easy-peasy. Pretty much every place I have tried from these books is pretty good.

Egg Vending Machines: 卵の自動販売機

So everyone hears about how Japan has some crazy vending machines… usually this is not as true as everyone thinks it is (except for maybe in Akihabara). Well, in Okinawa we do have egg vending machines! This is not as weird as it sounds, as the eggs are delivered 4-5x per day fresh from nearby chicken farms; there are even a fair number of options to choose from at the machine. Pretty cool. We discovered this a long time ago, a bit by accident while driving down one of the more rural roads, so naturally we had to stop and check it out. Since then, whenever we are in the area, of course we have to pick some up!

This particular machine is from a company called Minasu 見奈須 located in Nanjo, the southern part of Okinawa. They operate vending machines at 3 locations in the area. There are a few other machines from other companies that I have heard of, but I think this may be the largest one.

The Japanese word for egg is たまご tamago. The 卵 kanji is typically used for raw eggs although can sometimes be used for cooked eggs (in particular half-cooked eggs), and can also refer to eggs from any type of animal. The 玉子  kanji refers to cooked eggs only. They are all pronounced ta-ma-go.

The Japanese word for vending machine is 自動販売機 ji-dou-han-bai-ki, or 自販機 ji-han-ki for short.


South

The location for this particular machine (Nanjo) is approximately here:  https://goo.gl/maps/T1mz3e5FJUK2

2nd Minasu machine, in front of the actual Minasu egg farm in Nanjo:  https://goo.gl/maps/BcQwb2tSYHK2

And the 3rd Minasu Egg Farm Vending machine location:
https://goo.gl/maps/z3eAUcroaz12

Another brand is in front of a place called CAKE&EGG in Haebaru:  https://goo.gl/maps/EhgA3L34mQU2

Itoman, Uehara Youkei vending machine: https://goo.gl/maps/VSeghofjigv


Central

For EM (effective microorganisms) eggs, there is a machine in Nishihara:  https://goo.gl/maps/29ieZe55t1H2


North

Location in Yomitan, next to the police box (before you reach Marudai Market on Rt 6), look for the flags that say たまご:
https://goo.gl/maps/d32HyRS5oS42

**There are some more locations not mentioned yet, updates will come soon.


More photos, this machine is located in Nishihara:

Miso in Okinawa: 味噌

味噌: miso, also seen on packages as みそ in hiragana.

A popular ingredient throughout Japan. Here in Okinawa, there is a local specialty miso called andansu アンダンスー, but it can also labeled 油みそ (abura miso) or even 肉みそ (niku miso) for the pork based or かつお (katsuo) for the katsuo based. It is miso with bits of pork in it, or sometimes katsuo かつお (鰹, tuna type of fish) depending on the recipe. You can find it in local grocery stores and farmers markets, although it is not always near the other miso pastes… sometimes I find it by meats or prepared foods, or even in the “local specialities” section. At farmers markets it is often sold in simple containers or even just plastic bags (usually from local obaasan that make it at home to sell), but most grocery stores sell the commercial versions. You can even make your own andansu of you live outside of Okinawa (recipe here).

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commercial types, usually near the omiyage/souvenir section

Obviously this is not one I go for since I do not eat pork, but my husband likes it.

Andansu is used in several dishes or even just as a condiment on rice. A popular treat called ぽーぽー popo, sort of a rolled crepe made from eggs, flour and brown sugar, puts a bit of andansu in the middle.

So as a reminder, not all miso is vegetarian in Okinawa! However if you don’t mind a bit of pork, you should try some andansu while in Okinawa.

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andansu from the farmers market; sometimes they are packaged even in just plain white containers with almost no labelling except for 「アンダンスー」

Toufu no Higa:とうふの比嘉

Toufu no Higa is located on Ishigaki-jima, a small island in the southern Ryukyu chain (Yaeyamas). If you find yourself on this island that has world class diving sites, you must make a stop here.

Yes, tofu is in the name because they make tofu products. No, it is nothing like the prepackaged junk they sell in the US. It is DELICIOUS. Even if you say “I don’t like tofu, that is slimey hippie stuff,” you must try it. It is amazing.

The best part is they are even open for breakfast (no they do not have Western breakfast foods). It is always busy with local workmen, so you know it is cheap and good. Their menu is all in Japanese, so if you have no working knowledge of Japanese language, just point to what everyone else is ordering and hold up the number of fingers of how many set meals you want.

One of my classmates was asking me questions about where I have traveled in Okinawa. When I mentioned I went to Ishigaki, she said she was from there and asked what I liked about, what I did there. I told her how much I loved Toufu no Higa, she burst out laughing and she explained her father ate there every day. She was baffled and could not believe a westerner would like such a place.

We had the yushi-doufu set. It came with fresh soymilk and it was seriously just amazing.

Address:

English: 570 Ishigaki, Okinawa Prefecture 907-0023

Japanese: 〒907-0023 沖縄県石垣市 石垣島石垣570

Tea: お茶

Tea is all the same plant “Camellia Sinensis,” the difference is how it is grown and processed.

Tea is culturally and historically significant in Japan, as well as the rest of Asia, so let us introduce some Japanese terms to identify tea.  This is a quick guide for the beginning tea-enthusiast who has relocated to Okinawa and is interested in figuring out how and what to purchase.

茶 cha: This just means tea.  Okay, maybe you knew that one already.

緑茶 ryokucha: this simply means green tea.  There are several types listed as following.

煎茶 sencha: This is the most common drinking tea in Japan. It is grown in full sun. Besides in the form of  leaves, sencha can also be in the form of a powder (粉), so it can be difficult to distinguish from matcha if you do not know what to look for.

玉露茶 gyokuro cha: This tea is a very high quality green tea; less than half of one percent of all Japanese green tea ends up as gyokuro. About three weeks before harvest, the tea plants that are reserved for gyokuro are put under 90% shade (same as matcha). This changes the characteristics of the resulting tea quite a bit. Due to the extra labor and care involved, gyokuro green tea is considerably more expensive than other types of green tea.

抹茶 matcha: The leaves are crushed into a fine powder.  Matcha is used in tea ceremony and for making sweets and confections; it is not typically drunk everyday, but on special occasions. It is grown in the shade like gyokuro cha.  A simple way to think of it is matcha is powdered gyokuro cha.

**You may see 抹茶入る : this means that matcha is used but not necessarily exclusively. Many drinks and powders will advertise this, but it is frequently mixed with sencha (or possible other types of tea), so read carefully.

Some notes of interest: earlier or first harvests are typically higher quality, however also higher cost.  A really superb, high quality Japanese green tea will never really be cheap.  Kyoto Uji cha (京都宇治茶) is renown for its high quality.

Some people prefer organic products, so be on the lookout for 有機 pronounced “yuuki” on the label.


Other types of tea to be familiar with:

新茶 shincha: This is called new tea, which is a first harvest tea. It is described as having qualities of sweetness.  Typically shincha is considered very good quality.

番茶 bancha: a late harvest green tea. Since the quality of late harvest green teas are lower than the first harvest, it is often this is used to make some other unusual types of green tea such as genmaicha (described below), and another type known as houjicha, which is baked and produces a reddish color liquid with little to no caffeine.

玄米茶 genmaicha: This is green tea mixed with roasted (puffed) brown rice.

ほうじ茶 houjicha: This is made using roasted tea leaves, giving it a mild taste with much less bitterness; good fragrance and typically low caffeine.

紅茶 koucha: This is black tea; the leaves are completely fermented.

烏龍茶,ウーロン茶 uuron cha: oolong tea, Chinese style tea which involves withering the plant under strong sun and oxidation.

さんぴん茶 sanpin cha: The popular Okinawa jasmine tea!  Also considered Chinese style tea, with a lovely fragrance. On the mainland it is usually labelled ジャスミン茶 Jasumin-cha.

麦茶 mugi-cha: This is barley tea, so not even from the “Camellia Sinensis” plant, instead made with roasted barley.  Caffeine-free.  I include this one simply because you see it quite commonly.

うっちん茶 ucchin-cha (Okinawan) or ウコン茶 ukon-cha (Japanese): This is another Okinawan tea, this time made from turmeric. This is also very low in caffeine and supposedly excellent for you health (especially liver). I mention liver health because Japanese, Okinawans in particular, seem to drink alcohol quite a bit, so ukon is used as a health supplement around here.

グァバ茶 guaba-cha: Guava tea. Also caffeine-free, made from guava leaves, and supposedly healthy for you.

ハイビスカス茶 haibisbusu cha: Hibiscus tea. This is a pretty pink-red color herbal tea, made from roselle, the part of the hibiscus flower. It tastes a little “fruity.”


Everything said and done, buy what you like to fit your tastes, budget, and use. Whenever possible, try a sample and decide for yourself.  My husband likes the tea from Higashi village (東村) from here in Okinawa, and it is very affordable (okay, cheap, it is by no means high quality, simply local)… so taste is relative.  There are places you can sample and buy tea: Naha downtown Ryubo department store, Lupicia at the new Rycom mall, tea shop in American village Aeon are some examples. Otherwise, you can shop the farmers markets and grocery stores for more basic teas.

As a last reminder check 産地 for origin of the product.  国産 means domestic Japan, 中国 is China, 韓国 is South Korea. Depending on the quality of the tea, it may also show the locality within Japan. 静岡 Shizuoka, 鹿児島 Kagoshima, 三重 Mie, 京都 Kyoto, 神奈川 Kanagawa, 愛知 Aichi, 福岡 Fukuoka, 熊本 Kumamoto, 宮崎 Miyazaki, 岐阜 Gifu, and 佐賀 Saga are some of the tea regions in Japan. Tea from Okinawa will be labelled 沖縄産. Different countries and regions have different characteristics in flavor and fragrance; I have enjoyed visiting and exploring many tea-growing regions here in Japan, South Korea, and Taiwan, and I encourage everyone to do the same as it is quite a relaxing and amazing experience.  No trip to Japan (or Asia for that matter) is complete without a stroll through a major tea-producing region’s fields.

Hopefully this quick guide provides some useful information for your next trip to the Okinawan grocery or other specialty store as you look for the green tea of your choice.

This is only the tip of the iceberg… I have not even included all the herbal or other specialty teas. Maybe in another post for another time.

For a unique experience in Okinawa, try Bukubuku cha, a type of Okinawa tea ceremony.

If you are more interested in Chinese tea, there are some spots in Okinawa to try Gongfu tea.

Chanpuru: チャンプルー

チャンプルー chanpuru means something mixed in Okinawa language. In Okinawa, there is “chanpuru culture” because there are so many different influences (American, Chinese, Japanese and traditional Ryukyu).

Chanpuru is a classic Okinawan dish that is stir-fried. There are many types of chanpuru, each featuring different foods. Typically some vegetables are stir-fried with a bit of egg, spam (or maybe pork), and tofu. Some dishes have bean sprouts, some have green onions, some have carrot or cabbage… I notice there are not a lot of “hard and fast” rules when it comes to chanpuru. The sauce is some combination to your taste, involving shoyu, dashi, cooking sake, and perhaps miso. Again, everyone obaasan has her own recipe. Otherwise, in grocery stores here in Okinawa, you can actually buy a sauce in the bottle. I was gifted some by one of my ladies. She had heard how much my husband loved goya and thoughtfully put together a Christmas gift basket of foods for us.

Goya chanpuru: probably the most “popular.” It is sort of the quintessential Okinawan dish, using the classic goya (bitter melon) as the center of the stir-fry, alongside some tofu, egg, spam and maybe some other veggies.

Fu chanpuru: fu is an interesting thing. It is usually long tubes of wheat gluten, often bits are added to miso soup here in Okinawa. It is very cheap, available in all grocery stores, and no real taste so it really soaks up whatever flavors you cook with. It has quickly become a favorite for my husband as it is fairly low in calories and takes on so much flavor of what it is cooked with. He has taken to ordering it at local shokudo where the waitress will sometimes look at him funny; I assume most large American gentlemen are not inclined to order it normally. But seriously, what starts as completely tasteless turns into a really flavorful food that soaks up a ton of sauce and seasoning. IMG_2276

Somen chanpuru: somen そうめん are simply very thin noodles. So this is essentially noodles stir-fried with sauce and vegetables. The taste is very different than yakisoba, though, so don’t get your hopes up. It probably my least favorite of the chanpuru variations, but still, the taste is okay. They just don’t soak up the flavor like fuu does.

Tofu chanpuru: The other chanpuru only have a bit of tofu, so this version has a lot of tofu. It is probably what you would expect, large bits of tofu with some vegetables with pork or spam in sauce.

Hechima chanpuru: this one is actually pretty rare to find, but I have seen it on occasion. I mean, it is hechima (loofah in English, nabera in Okinawan) so it really is not so popular, even among Okinawans.

For those of us in Okinawa, making chanpuru could not be easier with the widespread availability of all the ingredients. There is even a chanpuru sauce sold in grocery stores (if you do not want to bother making your own).

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Hechima: ヘチマ

Hechima, a.k.a sponge gourd or loofah vegetable. Many mainland Japanese do not consider eating this vegetable and instead make sponges from it. However, hechima is a staple in Okianwan cuisine. The Okinawan word is “nabera” ナーベーラー and “hechima” ヘチマ is the Japanese word.

While I was at an onsen resort on the mainland, I talked to some people about Okinawan food like hechima and goya. They had never eaten either, and were shocked to learn that these foreigners had. I guess it goes to show how different Okinawan cuisine is from typical Japanese cuisine. That being said, I will be the first to admit I do not love hechima, but tolerate it mostly because it is cheap. It can be very watery when you cook it, so you need to find a way to absorb or get rid of the excess water that comes out when it cooks.

There are simple ways to eat it; most involve some sort of stir-fry or sauté. When I asked the (older) Okinawan ladies that I teach eikawa (English conversation), they recommended spam and hechima fried in a bit of oil (okay, actually I think they said pork fat not oil, but do as you prefer). On a few restaurant menus I have seen hechima chanpuru (basically a type of Okinawa stir-fry); I also recently found a hechima tempura recipe, though I worry it might be a bit watery for this, perhaps the crispy tempura will balance it out. It is also a popular item to add to simple soups (an easy way is consumme soup, hechima cut into pieces, small pieces of ham, and some Japanese mushrooms). I suppose I will continue to try various recipes until I find something I truly like with hechima. Even my ladies admitted they did not like hechima as children, but it has grown on them, sort of a “soul food” for them now.

**Recipe for “Hechima Steaks” on this page, scroll down to find hechima.

In the picture below, hechima is on the far left. It curiously resembles a cucumber or maybe a zucchini in outward appearance a bit, but when you cut into it, you will see that it is much different.

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Island peppers: 島唐辛子

Shima tougarashi 島唐辛子 are island peppers, similar to small thai chilis. These type of small red peppers are also common in Hawai’i.

While Hawaiians make chili water, Okinawans make koregusu コーレーグース (also seen as コーレーグス). The difference is Okinawans put the chilis in Awamori 泡盛. Yup, that’s the recipe, just add some small red chilis to cheap awamori, let it “age” a bit, and you have Okinawa’s equivalent of hot sauce. I read someone use a ratio of 20 peppers to 200mL of awamori, but my husband says that is not really enough and to just add as much as you like. Suffice to say, it is simple to make at home (check out the “recipe” in my recipes section). Sometimes I buy bottles from little obaasans that bottle their own in the farmers markets or alongside the road.

If you like this, you may consider also trying hiruzaki ヒルザキ, made from island garlic and awamori.

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