EM stands for effective microorganisms; some are lactic acid bacteria, which are probiotics to promote digestive health, and some are added to the soil or water to promote environmental health. EM products are rather popular in Okinawa.
For starters, EM milk is my husband’s favorite. The microorganisms are added to the water and feed to promote healthier cows and healthier milk production. Somehow the milk does taste fresher, whether or not the microorganisms are scientifically effective. Anyway, you can find this milk in all the stores here in Okinawa.
From EM milk, comes EM ice cream. There are a few stands around the island selling this ice cream, and one happens to be not too far from my house. It is located outside the Nakagusuku furniture mall Yonashiro. It kinda looks like it might be an abandoned shack with a pink awning, but it is in fact open. Try it.
EM Ice Cream shack in Nakagusuku
Another product that I love is EM mayo made by みやぎ農園 Miyagi farm. It is sold in many farmers markets and SanA grocery stores here in Okinawa. It may be more expensive, but it is definitely worth it.
And lastly, I will come to one of my favorite places, Sun Monte EM Bakery. This is a small bakery near the university, with an amazing variety of goods. I always see kids visiting after school, and housewives picking up bread here, it is an extremely popular neighborhood bakery. This place uses EM products in their baking, and the taste is amazing. I have not really visited much in Europe, so I will not pretend to know exactly what rustic European bakeries taste like, but I have to imagine this must be pretty close. I am constantly impressed with the goodies I get from this place.
You can find some EM Markets around the island selling these products.
If you want to grow your own veggies and fruits, you can even pick up EM fertilizers from some markets and JA ag supply stores.
address for Sun Monte Bakery: 〒901-2213 沖縄県宜野湾市志真志4-32-14
Onsen are fairly common throughout Japan, but unfortunately there are no really “true” Japanese onsen experiences in Okinawa like you would get in the mainland of Japan. There are some places that qualify as onsen in Okinawa, but to get the real feel of onsen, one must travel to the mainland since onsen are not as large a part of Ryukyuan culture. In Okinawa, while most of the places that qualify as onsen are fairly nice, they are more like sento, “public baths”; none of them have that true Japanese feeling of onsen. That being said, I will introduce some nice places to try if you visit Okinawa and do not have a chance to visit the mainland. Later maybe I will make part II and introduce my favorite spots on the mainland to visit onsen.
温泉 onsen: hot springs
銭湯 sento: public bath
スパ supa: spa
*Special Note: although many onsen and sento are lightening up rules regarding tattoos, some still have strict no tattoo policies, so it is best to check in advance if this will be an issue. In Okinawa, currently NONE of the onsen or sento I have visited allow tattoo in the public bath, however some will allow you to book the private baths (usually used for couples or families), such as Senaga-jima, AJ Resort, and Yuinchi onsens (address listed at the bottom of the page).
Very recently, I noticed that the EM Wellness Resort has a sign saying if you can cover your tattoo with the tape/seal that they sell (you can also buy these at DonQ, or from Amazon), then you can use the onsen. I am not sure if other onsen on island have the same policy if you don’t have large tattoos if you cover them up before you go they probably won’t complain, but it may be worth asking if this is a possible option for you.
All this being said, I have on occasion seen very small “fashion” tattoo in the onsen… while many people may not say anything if they see you with a small tattoo, I cannot however encourage you to try to enter the onsen with a tattoo even if you try to cover it with a bandage. It is very possible there will be that one person who does complain and management will ask you to leave. Or people may notice, give you stink-eye and say nothing, instead giving “foreigners” 外国人 a bad reputation for lack of manners and ignoring the rules (and seriously, most Japanese are not rule-breakers, it simply is not how things are done here). If you have a lot of tattoo and want to try onsen either try booking the private bath at the aforementioned places or better yet, head up to some of the rural areas in the mainland which may allow tattoo. For instance, I know for certain that the Dogo onsen in Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture), Arima onsen in Kobe, and some places in Hokkaido and Nagano that do allow tattoo. Plus, these places will quite honestly be a more authentic experience than what you will find in Okinawa. Just something to keep in mind.
My favorite place to visit is in Ginowan behind the DonQ, at the Enagic Natural Onsen Aroma エナジック天然温泉アロマ. This is the closest to a mainland Japanese onsen experience that you can get in Okinawa. It has several baths (including 1 outside that overlooks a Japanese-esque garden, hinoki bath, waterfall bath, and some jetted baths), a dry sauna, a salt sauna, relaxation rooms, and a restaurant. It also has many services such as scrubs, facials, and massages; I highly recommend trying the scrub and massage, you will come out feeling like a new person. The best part for me is that there is a significant student discount; if you are not a student, they have point cards and various specials. For instance couples’ day is a discount day if you bring a friend/husband/significant other. It is open from 6 am -midnight. Adult entrance fee (no discounts) is 1500円, high school/university 1000円, while elementary & middle school children are half price, and younger are free.
There are some more upscale type places, such as Senaga-jima Spa (near the Naha airport, indoor/outdoor onsen overlooking the ocean), Yuinchi Hotel Spa (a.k.a. Bathing Ape or Apeman Spa, in Nanjo with only indoor Ryukyu clay onsen), and EM Wellness Costa Vista Resort (Kitanakagusuku, indoor onsen); I list the exact addresses and additional descriptions for these at the bottom of the post should you decide to check them out. These places are a bit more expensive and the baths are overall nice, but I prefer the atmosphere of Onsen Aroma better. The main reason to visit these places is that they offer some upscale treatments which are fabulous (and the prices reflects that!), just not something I can afford so often. These places also offer tasty lunch buffets in their restaurants. Many of the other resorts/hotels on island also offer an onsen (or some just a sento), but the ones listed are the bigger (and nicer) ones that I am familiar with and have reasonably priced entrance fees.
Loisir Hotelin Naha also offers public onsen access, I recently visited, but don’t particularly recommend due to the very expensive entry fee (they have 2 options available, 1 high end, 1 low end). Most entrance fees are between 1000-1500yen here in Okinawa; the Loisir is 3000-4000yen… yikes. Same with Okinawa Spa Resort EXES; a visitor pass (non-overnight guest) for the spa bathes is 3500yen… and it is technically not an onsen, just public bath (sento). Hotel Orion Motobu Resort & Spa has their Jurassic Onsen Churaumi-no-yu ジュラ紀温泉美ら海の湯; a visitor pass is 2150yen, so while still costly it is not outrageous. The Okuma Private Resort in Kunigami has a free onsen for guests, and only about 900yen for outside visitors. Mahaina Wellness Resort Okinawa in Motobu has a free onsen for guests, 1000yen for outside visitors. Rizzan Sea Park Hotel in Onna has a really nice looking indoor/outdoor “spa bath” (don’t think they can call this one an onsen technically), 1500yen for outside guests (hotel guests have reduced fees).
Rikkarikka-yu りっかりっか湯 in the Naha Central Hotel is really a super-sento but has some more affordable entrance fees of varying combinations; you can try the sauna, the bedrock spa (ganbanyoku), and the baths for a fairly reasonable set fee of 2100yen– a pretty good deal.
A NEW onsen has opened at Aj Resort on Ikei-jima in Uruma! It is not huge, but it is nice, with an indoor and outdoor bath, as well as a family bath! There are also really nice looking private family/couple baths that can be booked for 90 minutes for only 3000yen (they request booking in advance for the private baths since they only have 2 available private baths!). Green tea is added to the Okinawa deep-sea water, and the outdoor bath has jets. **Note: I recently heard from someone that they were allowed to enter with tattoo. Please confirm this with the hotel if you decide to visit, as when I went there was a sign (in Japanese) saying no tattoo allowed… it is possible they decided to lighten up on the policy.
As new resorts are being built, many have “onsen” in their facilities, sometimes only for overnight guests. Okinawa has seen a lot of construction recently due to the influx of visitors.
There is also a place in American Village (Chatan) called Terme Villa Chura-yu ちゅらーゆ (also romanized as “Chula-U”), but I do not particularly recommend it. It allows tattoos if you can fully cover them, but only in the outside mixed swimming section. Indoor onsen area, no tattoos per their posted regulations (though I am sure some people ignore this, again making foreigners look poorly). The onsen area was not very good, nor very clean when I visited. Honestly, I would skip it unless it is truly your only option.
In Onna, the Renaissance hotel has an onsen onsite, but only for hotel guests staying on the premium floor. Sadly I have not been able to try it… maybe I will try staying there one day if I can find a good hotel deal. But again same as all of the others listed, the website explicitly states no tattoo, even though this is an exclusive place where you are paying a lot of $$$! Kind of surprising really.
If you make it out to Miyako-jima, there are also 2 onsen locations; Miyako-jima onsen and Shigira Ougon onsen. I believe they state no tattoo, but I don’t know if they are “flexible” on that. Sometimes the more “rural” places are.
These next 2 are not really onsen– Kanna Thalasso in Ginoza and Bade Haus on Kume-jima use deep-sea water, not hot spring water. The Kanna Thalasso website indicates no tattoo allowed (though I think you may wear swimsuits, they can be covered, or so I have heard); Bade Haus may use the pool only if tattoo are covered completely.
In addition to these few onsen facilities, there are several sento (public bath) around the island, often as part of a gym. I have visited a few here in Okinawa, but they usually are much more simple compared to onsen. Sometimes they have jetted pools or whatnot.
NOTE: they can not call them onsen if they do not use natural hot spring water, as per the “regulations.” And again, most if not all places in Okinawa state “no tattoo allowed.” So I re-iterate… it is important to check the rules for each place if you have any tattoo.
Another interesting option for those interested in Japanese bathing culture is the ganban-yoku 岩盤浴, bedrock bath (sort of like a sauna); click on the link to read more about it, as it is tattoo-friendly since you wear sauna clothes for this experience. Some of these are women-only, but some have options for both genders.
So now that you may have decided to visit an onsen, there is a basic procedure for entering the onsen or a sento. These procedures will be what I most commonly observe in mainland Japan and Okinawa, though it can vary widely by place– some places are much more modern or fancier, while others are much more simple and older.
When you first walk into the building, there will be shoe lockers; remove your shoes and take the key to the front desk. At the desk, you will turn in your shoe key and they will give you a locker key for the bath (segregated baths, men and women) with towels (usually 1 large, 1 small) and often a set of clothes that look a little like pjs called samue 作務衣 (some places may even give you a yukata 浴衣 instead). Now this really depends on the place… some will give you nothing (usually the really cheap places) and charge for towels, either “rent” or buy! You pay the entrance fee up front; sometimes the locker key you receive will have a code that they scan if you want to receive scrub or massage services, or even to purchase drinks, which you then pay for at the end when you check out.
Go to the locker room, to the locker number on your key. Get naked. Yup. No swimsuits. Don’t feel self-conscious cuz it is just old ladies (or men depending on your gender) and they do not really judge. I mean, if you are a foreigner, yeah, they are gonna look simply because you are different, but really, no one cares. Anyway, strip down, neatly fold or hang your clothes in your locker, get your towel (and any toiletries you might have brought, for instance I have a scrubby bath towel from the Daiso/100 yen store) and head to the baths. Just put your key band around your wrist or ankle; if you are a lady you can even use it to tie up you hair in a ponytail or bun. And seriously, just use the smaller towel, leave the big towel in your locker, or at least off to the side, otherwise it will get wet and not dry you off when you actually need it. And do not try to wrap the tiny towel all the way around you, you will look silly; just embrace the naked, draping the small towel length-wise in front of your body if you want to cover any bits.
When you enter the bathing room, grab a stool by one of the shower stations and rinse yourself off; there is usually shampoo, body soap, and conditioner all provided at the stations (depending on how fancy the facility is, for some cheaper onsen/sento you need to bring your own shampoo/conditioner or purchase from the front desk). When you feel appropriately clean and rinsed off, time to soak away in the bath and sweat it out in the sauna (remember to make sure all of the soap if off your body). Repeat. If you go into a sauna, remember to rinse your body before you go back into the tubs. I am sure to dip into every bath, even the cold ones. Yes, there are both hot and cold… 湯 is hot water, 冷 is cold. They always display the temperature somewhere, so look along the walls or sides. Every bath has different healing properties with different minerals, which is also listed somewhere in the onsen, though if you do not read Japanese, it might not help you very much.
Etiquette: for anyone with long hair, tie up your hair so it does not get in the water! You will get stink-eye if you let it drape into the water. I use my small towel to wrap around my head and keep the stray long strands from escaping; you will see this is a common technique. Occasionally people will fold it into a neat little rectangle and rest it on their head, but I do not see this very often in Okinawa. Also, it is considered rude to soak your small towel into the bathwater (although I have seen some obaasans do it anyway). As far as noise, it depends on the place– I have been to some that are practically silent, and others that are alive with chattering gossip. Just use your common sense and do as the locals do.
Whenever you finish, change into the clothes they gave you, grab a drink (milk is popular and sold in small glass bottles), sit in a massage chair, watch tv, etc. The locker rooms have hair dryers, face lotion, hairbrushes (these are separated in a clean bin, usually a UV box, and a used bin), cotton swabs, lotion, etc. You usually do not need to bring much of anything, since most places have some amenities for you. I have a small bag of extra toiletries I bring for aftercare. Again, it depends on the place, some of the cheaper places provide very little in the way of amenities.
At the end, toss your towels into the laundry bin in the locker room, then bring your clothes and key back to the front desk (in some cases there may also be a laundry bin for your sauna clothes). Pay your balance, and they will give you the shoe locker key.
Also, as a fun cultural note, watch the Japanese movie “Thermae Romae” (based on a manga). It is hilarious, and gives me better appreciation of the bathing culture.
Enagic Natural Onsen Aroma, located in Ginowan behind the Don Quijote.
Addresses for top recommended Okinawa onsen:
Enagic Natural Onsen Aroma: 〒901-2223 沖縄県宜野湾市大山7-7-1 ~My favorite– several nice baths, steam sauna, salt sauna, and even an outdoor bath with a cute Japanese-style garden. Several affordable esthe options, including scrubs and massages. Shokudo restaurant on-site. Recommended for a down-to-earth experience that won’t break the bank. https://goo.gl/maps/dMNDCms3RaA2
Yuinchi Hotel and Spa (Bathing Ape): 〒901-1412 沖縄県南城市佐敷字新里1688 ~Interesting baths, all indoor. These baths contain Ryukyu “healing” clay (mud?), which is a little bit of a unique experience. You have a view over the southern valley. The buffet restaurant in the hotel (different than the small restaurant in the onsen building!) is AMAZING and well worth the price (2300yen for lunch). The baths are so-so, but it has special Ryukyu mud properties or something that sounds fancy. *separate blog post: Yuinchi Hotel: Onsen and Buffet
Senaga-jima Hotel and Onsen Spa: 〒901-0233 沖縄県豊見城市字瀬長174-5 ~Tons of delicious restaurants nearby. Admission to bath is reasonable, treatments are expensive but high quality. Indoor AND outdoor baths looking over the ocean (very beautiful). High end type of place, recommended for a luxury experience. *separate blog post: Ryukyu Onsen Senaga-jima Hotel
EM Wellness Resort Costa Vista: 〒901-2311 沖縄県中頭郡北中城村喜舎場1478番地 ~Awesome healthy buffet at the resort restaurant! The baths are decent (all indoor), and the treatments focus on wellness, so you leave feeling fantastic and refreshed. Pricier than Aroma onsen, but not too unreasonable. For an extra fee you can also try their bedrock bath (ganbanyoku). *separate blog post: EM Wellness Resort: Costa Vista and Spa Corazon
Aj Resort Onsen: 〒904‐2421 沖縄県うるま市与那城伊計1286 ~Newly opened on Ikei-jima (connected to Okinawa main island by bridge). Indoor and open-air bath, plus a private family bath. The only downside is it does not look like they offer any extra spa services. It is also quite a ways to get there as you have to cross the bridges from Uruma to Henza, Miyagi, and then finally all the way to the tip of Ikei-jima! It was nice enough when I visited, but pretty far away from everything. *separate blog post: Ikei-jima AJ Resort and Onsen: 伊計島温泉
**When I went to Aj Resort Onsen it was EMPTY! So… I was able to snap a few very quick pics. Normally you cannot take any pictures in the bath areas (for obvious reasons), so I rarely have pictures of these. Some of the “features” you may see at some of the more modern onsen:
Tokashiki-jima is an island in the Keramas off the coast of the main island of Okinawa. It is an easy ferry ride from Tomari Port in Naha, with a few trips per day. It is a gorgeous island, far from the concrete jungle that makes up Naha.
It is enough time to do a day trip if you leave on the first ferry of the day, then the last coming back. It is possible to stay overnight if you wish (there is a camp ground and a few small guesthouses/hotels to stay).
When you get off the 40 min- 1 hr ferry ride, there is an information area and buses. The bus will shuttle you to the other side of the island where the popular beach Aharen 阿波連ビーチ is located. There is also Tokashiku beach, which is a bit smaller, but less crowded 渡嘉志久ビーチ and a higher chance of seeing 海亀 sea turtles (honu, to the Hawaiians). The bus only runs between the ferry port and Aharen beach, so visiting any other sites on the island requires your own mode of transportation; taxi, moped, car, walking.
You can rent a car, scooter, or bike. But there is a large hill, so I really do not recommend bicycle. To be honest though, my husband and I walked one way (it was a healthy walk) and it was not unbearable, it probably took less than an hour, even with all the stopping and photo-taking. We admittedly took the bus back, since we were tired after a long day.
You can rent all sorts of beach gear and snorkel gear here (but I recommend bringing your own if possible). There are also glass bottom boats and a service that will take you to another small uninhabited island Nagannu-jima ナガンヌ島 for excellent snorkeling adventures (keep in mind there is no shade, so be prepared). You can even stay overnight camping or in a cottage on Nagannu-jima as well (just don’t expect much in the way of amenities…).
As an avid snorkeler and occasional diver, the beaches are decent for snorkeling (free if you have your own gear), but going with a professional boat tour is worth the money. I have done a Keramas dive tour with Seasir out of Naha on their private boat (no ferry to deal with), and it was very good. So, just keep this in mind.
As far as food goes, it is very tourist-friendly. That is to say, basically everywhere had English (and even Chinese and Korean) on the menus. Of course, being able to speak Japanese will make it easier for everyone, so give it a shot and practice! We went to a nice small place located by Aharen beach serving Okinawan food called Maasaanoten まーさーの店; my husband got fried fish and I got yakisoba, and of course a beer. After swimming, we went to the place that had beer and a view on the upper patio– what a relaxing way to end the day before climbing on to the bus to go back to the ferry.
***Some important things to know:
There are no ATMs on Tokashiki-jima and none of the places take credit card, so BRING YEN. There are signs all over the ferry terminal and you will be reminded when you purchase tickets.
The Ferry service will sell out during peak season (summer) and holidays. Reserve your seats in advance.
I do not advise taking your car. It is a hassle, and the cost is not worth it. Rent or take the bus, it is cheaper.
There is plenty of parking at the ferry terminal, but you do have to pay to park.
Bring sunscreen– don’t be those lobster red tourists.
There are vending machines on the ferry, and a few around town, so it is not necessary to bring your own drinks unless you want to. There are a few snacks at the small shop, but it is better to bring your own.
Handama is the Okinawan word for a type of local spinach known as 水前寺菜 suizenjina in Japanese. It is considered very healthy and visually striking, as the fronts are dark green and the backs a brilliant purple. Handama works best in salads, raw.
So, I am not a vegan (mostly I eat a primarily vegetarian/pescatarian diet), but I really enjoy many of the local vegan (some are only vegan-friendly but not exclusively vegan) spots here in Okinawa. Many other places will serve items on the menu without the meat (fish, eggs, dairy, etc) if you ask, but if you are not very good at Japanese, that may not really be an option. The places listed here are primarily vegetarian/vegan focused, and highlight the vegetarian/vegan options on their menus.
Here is a current list of places where you can find vegan (and vegetarian) friendly food while in Okinawa: *please note some places may be ONLY vegetarian-friendly, not vegan-friendly due to my ignorance, so always check ahead of time.
Mana: Nice cozy place where you can get a plate lunch in Naha; they can get busy for dinner so get a reservation in advance. 1-6-9 Tsuboya, Naha
Kintsubo: Taiwanese. So good and cheap, it is vegetarian Chinese food. But not like American Chinese, like real Chinese.. yum! It felt very homey and comforting for me. 1-7-9 Tsuboya, Naha
Rakurobi Kitchen: Macrobiotic (mostly) vegan. Follow the link to the blog post I wrote.
Yama-No-Chaya Rakusui: Definitely vegetarian friendly, but not sure about vegan. Love this location and food. I wrote a previous blog post on this place.
Ie-jima Shimabukuro 伊江島 食の家 しまぶくろ: Located in Naha, this place serves Okinawan soul food with vegan and vegetarian options. The chef has challenged himself to make hometown food for everyone to enjoy. 3-10 Makishi, Naha 900-0013
LaLa Zorba: Located in Naha, I went for lunch and it was fabulous. It bills itself as “vegan ethnic” food, read more in the linked post. https://goo.gl/maps/tSiwY8DMaV22
Tami’s: located in American Village and recently re-opened. It is also vegan and super delicious. I will have to make a new post for this one. https://goo.gl/maps/TFNjrWyqjZ72
Ploughman’s: Unfortunately, this place has caught on with a lot of people, and reservations are recommended even for lunch. But it is delicious. 927-2 Adaniya, Kitanakagusuku
Rockers: Okay food, unfortunately in American Village, so not an area I go to a lot. I got the vegan burger and my husband the curry set, both were okay but not spectacular. 9-39 Mihama, Chatan 2F
Bollywood Dreams: I don’t especially recommend this place; it is a bit overpriced, slooooow service, and the food is not that great. But they do have vegetarian and vegan curries on the menu. Located in American Village: *update: they now have 2 locations in American village.
Bali Noon Bali Moon: Not exclusively vegan, but has vegan options. They also sell their tempeh which is a bargain at 500grams for 500yen!
Esparza’s Tacos & Coffee: According to husband, pretty good. They also sell vegan their cheese. https://goo.gl/maps/epFFj49nwDF2
Guacamole Burrito Truck: Not so much a restaurant, but a cool little trailer that will make a vegetarian/vegan burrito. Get this and take it to the nearby beach to eat. https://goo.gl/maps/LrtWvo4Bxfz
Citta Bakeshop (NEW!): located just outside of the Ryukyu University East Gate. Google Map link, pictures, and review coming soon!
Dechibika: This place is in Yomitan, an area I rarely visit due to the high traffic of Americans. I have not been here, but people rave about their curry, so I will have to bite the bullet sometime soon. 648-1 Furugen, Yomitan
Gubgub’s: Closed as of Feb 2020 🙁 They still sometimes show up at Vegan Foodfairs! Vegan “junk food,” also in Yomitan; it is as awesome as you hear from others and I highly recommend it. 410 Toya, Yomitan
Suien bakery: LOVE. Delicious sandwiches and located in Yomitan. Go early as it gets busy. 367 Zakimi, Yomitan
Bakery and Cafe Coo: LOVE. Delicious sandwiches in Motobu peninsula by Nakijin-jo. 3313 Imadomari, Nakijin
There are a few others that I know of, but have not had a chance to visit yet. And maybe 1 or 2 that were not good and they simply do not go on the list (Example: Jai Thai in American Village… I simply cannot understand why anyone would go there, it is highly NOT recommended unless you like to spend a lot of money on terrible food. Also avoid Pizza Sun (previously known as Pizzakaya), for various reasons I will not get into. These restaurant are a majority veg-friendly; there are even more restaurants with a few veg options, but I cannot possibly list them all…
Several of the Indian restaurants have veg options, as well as a place called Istanbul Kebab House in Sunabe; all of these are also pretty good options for vegetarians and vegans as well. There are obviously many other places that can accommodate vegetarians and even vegans, but these are some of the better known places that understand what vegan/vegetarian diet is.
黒 kuro mean “black” and にんにく ninniku means “garlic.”
In Okinawa, it is possible to find black garlic. It is island garlic, raw, aged under heat and humidity for a period of time (no additives), turning the garlic softer and sweeter. It retains a fragrant garlic aroma, but does actually does not cause the strong garlic breath after eating. It is a really nice (and supposedly healthy) flavor to add to recipes.
おにぎり onigiri, also called おむすび omusubi, are rice balls. Onigiri are a common item for Japanese lunch boxes, called bento 弁当. You can find onigiri at every bento stand and conbini; Lawsons and FamilyMart usually have 20 different types lined up in the refrigerated section, with a variety of fillings from plain salt to tuna to spam with egg.
For my lunch, I went to a vegetarian-friendly market and picked up an onigiri-bento. It came with 2 onigiri: one wrapped in shiso leaf with nori (seaweed) sprinkles (also known as furikake ふりかけ), and one with shoyu and ginger (and probably some other things); it also came with something shaped like onigiri but with pickled plum/shiso and purple sweet potato (and maybe okara, aka soy leavings, but I am not a hundred percent sure). There was a delicious side of pickled carrot and daikon, mini tomatoes, and potato salad. I also bought a delicious vegan strawberry and poppyseed muffin for dessert. Everything was really tasty, so if you are in Okinawa, be sure to stop by HappyMore Farmers Market in Nakagusuku.
Shima ninjin 島人参 or 島にんじん are Okinawa island carrots.
Nakagusuku village, where I live, is known in Okinawa for its carrots. The village mascot, Gosamaru (named for the Ryukuan lord of Nakagusuku region), wields a fan (うちわ, uchiwa) in one hand and a carrot in the other. He adorns the side of buses, banners, and important landmarks. He also shows up to events and matsuri, even to anti-drunk-driving rallies (held at the empty lot by the town sign across from our house).
Tsuken-jima, a.k.a. Carrot Island, is located off the coast (you can see this island from the second story of my house). Tsuken-jima is also known for carrots (obviously). Technically, this island is considered a part of Nakagusuku town area, although it can only be accessed by ferry.
Most of the carrots grown here are orange, but some varieties come in yellow or purple. I think they are pretty tasty, and I really advocate supporting local farms and businesses. It always tastes fresher closer to the source.
Takenoko, 竹の子 or たけのこ, are bamboo shoots in Japanese. Recently, whenever I look at takenoko, I think about the Ghibli film about Kaguya-hime かぐや姫の物語.
Today, there was fresh takenoko at the farmers market (and it was fairly cheap), so impulsively bought some…! This is a new experience for me, as I have only ever bought them packaged.
I boiled and prepared it, according to some directions online. I think it worked, although I think more experimenting is needed to actually understand the process.
I made takenoko and shiso gyoza with tofu instead of pork. I added in Okinawa garlic, green onions, cabbage, and seasoned. Maybe I will even include a recipe later. Homemade gyoza (mandu, potstickers, dumplings) are the best and so easy to freeze the extra for quick meals or snacks later!
Izakaya are Japanese-style bars. But these are really nothing like American-style bars.
Often there will be an all-you-can-eat (食べ放題 tabehoudai) and all-you-can-drink (飲み放題 nomihoudai) option, which has a time interval, 90 minutes, 2 hours, or even up to 3 hours. Sometimes this is a bit risky, and you encounter some cheap, watered down beer… usually it depends on the pricing and the place. Most dishes are meant to be shared and are more appetizer style then full meals.
Izakaya are a great place to hold an informal gathering of coworkers, friends, classmates, etc. I have found Japanese people get much louder and outspoken at these gatherings, it is a good place to learn about people. For instance, I participate in a hula dance class once a week and we held a 忘年会 bonenkai (end of the year party) at a local izakaya to celebrate the success of our Christmas show. After months of nervously struggling to express myself in Japanese, I found out one of the members speaks somewhat decent English and studied at a US university for 3 years. Sigh. So, maybe I will use English when I am stuck on Japanese now.
A word of warning: some places have a “sitting” fee, which basically ensures that you spend some minimum amount. They will bring out a small appetizer dish that is “required” to purchase. Usually it is cheap, ~300円; this is done in lieu of an entrance fee. This is called “otoshi” お通し.
A tip: if you want draft beer, just order “nama” 生 (and how many you want). Draft beer is nama bi-ru 生ビール, and for short, just nama will do.
Another thing to remember: the drinking and driving BAC is very low 0.03, so always take advantage of public transport, taxi, or DAIKO services! DAIKO is a service in Japan, where someone will drive your car home for you (teamed up with a taxi). It is very convenient and fairly cheap, just a little more than a regular taxi one-way. And much cheaper than a DUI.
In Okinawa, one of the izakaya I like is called Paikaji ぱいかじ and it has a location near to the university. It is more local food and has Ryukuan entertainment on weekends. You and your party get a private room (with a bing-bong so you can ring for the staff when you want to order something), unlike in a western bar. It also has cheap beer specials.
Next time you are in Japan or Okinawa, be sure to stop by a local izakaya (the more salary men, the better).
手拭 (てぬぐい): Tenugui is the name for these Japanese-style long, thin towels. At first glance, they do not seem like much. But even though these towels seem a bit simple, they can be used for just about anything: to wrap bento or other other lunch boxes to wrap gifts, dish towel, cleaning towel, wrapped around the head or neck (to wipe sweat, particularly popular use among ojiisan), onsen towel, or even just as a hanging decoration. There is no specific one use, you just use it however you like. They dry really fast, too, so they are pretty useful to have around.
In our house, they have become mostly kitchen towels, and we have collected a variety, including ones from the Awamori distillery (free), some bought from the Daiso (100円 store), a Kumamon pattern (Kyushu souvenir), onsen logos (free or cheap), our local village eisa troupe towel, a retro onsen design from Beppu, and even a cute one with monkeys bathing in onsen. I even got one free from the conbini from buying bottled drinks!
A typical Japanese towel
Souvenir shops, 100円 stores, kitchen goods stores will all sell tenugui. The patterns can range from simple to elaborate, and often the price can reflect that. Different regions will print different patterns for souvenirs; in Okinawa, there are some really pretty ones with Ryukuan bingata 紅型 patterns and shisa. I bought this one from the Daiso (100yen) shop, I thought it was cute, if a bit kitschy. I might go back and get another to send to friends in the US since it makes a cute and cheap souvenir.
Edamame are soybeans still in the shell. You boil them for a few minutes, drain, grind some salt on top to serve. You can serve them warm or chilled, although I tend to prefer chilled. Also, always serve with an extra bowl for the empty shells.
You can buy them frozen all year round, but right now, they are in season here in Okinawa (and will be gone soon, as the season here is always too short). So now is the time I can enjoy them fresh, and to take maximum advantage of this, I recommend a cold beer and enjoying them outside.
Not really Okinawa-themed, but I stopped by a local patisserie in Nishihara, Patisserie Cocolo. It is absolutely adorable, inside and out… there are little kitty paw prints leading to the doorway, and inside are cute cat decorations. They have the cutest caricatures of the owners/patisseries and the kitty logo. They even have a special dessert, COCO, that is a caramel mousse in the shape of a kitty paw. Ultra kawaii.
I was a bit overcome with cuteness, but managed to order desserts for the evening’s dinner party. The desserts were a huge hit with the guests, and everything I have tried here has been good. The patissier gave me a free milk pudding with my purchase…! Sometimes I really love Japan.
So, if you are a cat-lover and living in Okinawa, I highly recommend you check this place out and support a local small business.
address: 〒903-0125 沖縄県中頭郡西原町上原179-10
I have been following their website, and each month they seem to come out with a new themed dessert. They also do custom cakes, and there are some cute cat designs available!
The Japanese word for honey is hachimitsu 蜂蜜 or はちみつ. A lot of the honey in the grocery stores is imported. So where to buy really local honey?
I will share with you a hidden secret, nestled in the hills of Yanbaru in Okinawa. Few gaijin know of this small honey farm, shop, and cafe. It is called 蜜蜂ファーム・ときわ Bee Farm Tokiwa and カフェしゃしくまーる Cafe Shashi Kuma-ru.
It is a bit of a drive, and at one point I though for sure I was on the wrong path, but follow your GPS and you are sure to find it.
Once I arrived, I nervously entered, unsure if it was open… but it was! So I ordered a drink and cake, then sampled some honey. It was so tasty! It was quite serene, tucked away in the mountain. Time seemed to move slower. Sort of the type of cafe and nature you see in Ghibli movies that makes you want to visit Japan. If you want, you can wander and look at the honeybee boxes.
The address:〒905-1141沖縄県名護市源河2523-5 (オーシッタイ)
One of the pictures posted shows a crude map… you might need it…!
Natsu-matsuri. Matsuri 祭り (or just 祭) means festival, and natsu 夏 means “summer.”
In Japan, summer seems to start around July 15th, and so does the matsuri season. In Okinawa, there are usually multiple matsuri every weekend through September and even into October. Almost every Saturday and Sunday night the sky will be illuminated by fireworks (hanabi 花火) and the sounds of Okinawan eisa dance (エイサー) echo in the night air. In Okinawa, you will see the strings of Orion lanterns illuminating the paths and and smells will waft from the tents hawking foods.
Every town and village will host their own matsuri; men and women, from children to older folks will wear yukata 浴衣 and jinbei 甚平. Even I own a very classy black jinbei with Hello Kitty x OnePiece on it. Err, well, it is sort of tomboyish, but I find it cute and comfortable… I am pretty sure I would feel weird in a girly yukata. As a note, many westerners do not seem to realize the difference between kimono 着物 and yukata 浴衣. Kimono is very formal and layered, it would be odd to see kimono outside of formal events like weddings, graduations, or New Years Day. Yukata are light and thin, perfect for summer! They are more casual and are easier to put on. And wayyyy cheaper! Formal kimono are usually thousands of dollars (and therefore many people simply rent them instead of buying).
There are performances, games, food, and of course drinks of the alcoholic variety! Oh and they always hand out fans (うちわ uchiwa) as a means of advertising.
If you are in Okinawa or Japan during the summer season, you must attend one.
If you drive about some of the more “rural” parts of Okinawa, you may notice small wooden stands with vegetables and fruit. They are unmanned, with an honor box to collect money. You might not recognize them at first, as some of them may look a bit run down or in odd places alongside the road. This is where you get the best deals on produce. Fortunately for me, there are about a dozen within walking distance of my house.
I always stop when I see them… you never know what you will find. Tomatoes, beets, onions, fresh garlic, lettuce, random greens, cabbage, potatoes, watermelon, dragonfruit… the list goes on. When you find something you like, drop the payment in the box and say “いただきます!” itadakimasu! Translation: I will receive (eat) this well, or something to that effect. It is also said before meals, as a thanks.
黄金芋, pronounced Ougon-imo here in Okinawa, are a variety of orange sweet potato grown in the Ikei-jima, Uruma area. This potato is related to the famous annou-imo grown in Kagoshima! It is very sweet and creamy. So delicious. It is even better than the American orange sweet potatoes.
Ougon-imo actually were not grown in Okinawa until ~15 years ago when a local farmer decided to try to boost the economy in Ikei-jima! Anyway, they have since become popular.
So if satsuma-imo (yellow sweet potato, purple skin) do not work for your recipes, ougon-imo might be the perfect fit. Look for ougon-imo in farmers markets near Uruma and Okinawa, especially. You might see them elsewhere, but your best bet is always closest to the source.
P.S. Ikei-jima is connected to Okinawa mainland by a bridge, so you can drive there!
Previously, I wrote about Fukuoka’s yatai restaurants. Okinawa does not really have any yatai quite like this, however, a few years ago, a “yatai mura” (street for yatai stalls) was established in Naha nearby Kokusai-dori. It is sort of touristy, but fun. There are a few small restaurants set up, similar to a yatai-style street. You sit at counters surrounding the chef’s cooking area with other patrons and so it is easy to have the feeling of yatai-dining. There is also an entertainment stage where they hold performances and events. It is a unique nightlife that you can find here in Okinawa, so if you have never visited yatai before, it is a good opportunity to discover the atmosphere of yatai.
The chef-san at the fried skewer (kushikatsu 串カツ) restaurant posed with us:
サングァチグァーシ (or also spelled サングヮチグヮーシ) Sangwachi gwashi is the Okinawan words for third month (March) sweets. In kanji it looks like 三月菓子, the first 2 characters meaning 3rd month (san gatsu in Japanese) and the next 2 characters meaning sweets/snacks (kashi in Japanese).
Why March? Because of Girls Day! But this is during the lunar calendar (which Okinawans still use to celebrate traditional/religious holidays, unlike most mainland Japanese).
Sangwachi gwashi is very similar to sata andagi, except it is longer and slightly different dough. It is sort of a sweetened fried dough. It is traditionally eaten at the beach on March 3rd of the lunar year (旧暦の3月3日), Hamauri 浜下り, the Okinawa version of Girls Day. On Hamauri, Okinawan families take their daughters down the beach and purify them with ocean water.
This year, one of my dear students made some for me to enjoy and it was indeed delicious. I am fortunate to teach Eikawa (English Conversation) to a group of older ladies and one gentleman; honestly they teach me as much as I teach them.
Henza-jima celebrates a small fisherman’s festival called “Sangwacha” held from March 3rd to 5th in the LUNAR calendar (this coincides with Girls Day in the lunar calendar, called Hamauri 浜下り in Okinawan). The 2nd day of the festival, the 4th, is especially interesting! While the tide ebbs, you can watch (or join!) the parade of people who wade into the sea over to the rocks about 300 meters from the beach. Prayers to the sea gods for safety at sea and good harvests are offered on the rock for a prosperous year, then everyone returns to the beach. Afterwards, there is traditional entertainment in front of the Henza hall.
Before the parade begins, many people of the town dress up in costumes, especially with scary/creepy masks. Some were just silly (and maybe a little strange). Some of the boys painted themselves with black ink, and another in orange ink. They had fun high-fiving people and spreading ink. There is a fish palanquin (not sure what to actually call it… portable shrine? mikoshi?) that gets carried from the hall down and first down the road to the tent where the fish-spearing ceremony (prayer?) is performed– crazy stuff. They have drums and sanshin, plenty of awamori of course, and the fishermen place a fish on a board where one of the ladies dances, then spears it. Quite unique.
Next everyone heads down, en masse, to the beach. The fish palanquin is carried out to the rock offshore (everyone wades out) and a prayer ceremony is held and offerings given; the rock is known as the Nanza Rock. When everyone returns from the rock, the party continues. It is quite an interesting experience, and I was fortunate as a gaijin to be able to enjoy it. I met and talked to several local people, who were surprised (yet excited) to see gaijin for this small matsuri since there were a total of 4 of us (the other 3 were together as a photography group, I was by myself). Anyhow, a great time was had by all and I felt very happy to experience such a fun small town event that really showcased the spirit of the Okinawan people. Personally, I enjoy these types of events so much more than the big festivals, and it helps me appreciate the traditional culture and rituals.
Unfortunately my pictures are from my cellphone and not so great. Maybe next year I will take a real camera.
さんぴん茶 sanpin-cha is the popular Okinawa jasmine tea! Sanpin-cha is considered Chinese-style tea, with a lovely fragrance. On the mainland it is usually labelled ジャスミン茶 Jasumin-cha. Typically it also has a lower caffeine content than regular tea.
It has been a favorite in the islands since the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom hundreds of years ago. Originating with the trade between the Ryukyu Kingdom and China, the tea is an example of the mixture of Chinese and Japanese influence in the islands.
You can find it in cans (as shown below), bottles, tea bags or loose tea in every grocery store and market here in Okinawa. There is usually a really pretty Ryukuan or island flower design, so it is very eye-catching. Sanpin-cha is not sweetened, so I think some Americans do not care for the taste, but it is very refreshing and zero calories which is good for you. I think just about conbini and vending machine in Okinawa sells cans or bottles; every time there is a lab BBQ or get together, sanpin-cha is guaranteed to be there. I know some people who make a cocktail from sanpin-cha and awamori (island liquor).
Yushi-doufu is island (shima) tofu still in the liquid. It is fluffy and not pressed or formed. You can buy it at any grocery store in Okinawa, sold warm in plastic bags next to the other shima-doufu.
To eat it, it is usually just eaten in a bowl garnished with some green onion and maybe some shoyu. Sometimes it will be added to miso soup or bonito/konbu broth. The yushi-doufu has a rice soy flavor you do not normally see in regular tofu dishes.
Many Okinawa soba (suba) restaurants will serve it as yushi-doufu soba. Okinawa noodles and yushi-doufu are served up in a pig bone broth soup, with simmered pork cartilage (called soki ソーキ), fried eggs strips, and konbu.
Yushi-doufu is uncommon to find outside of Okinawa, so it is a must-try whenever you visit. I think one of the most important things you must try in Okinawa is yushi-doufu; it shows the how amazing tofu can taste, completely different from the pre-packaged kinds from the regular grocery stores. For people who claim to not like tofu, I think they should all try yushi-doufu, and it may very well change their views.
海老, えび, or エビ ebi means shrimp. Here in Okinawa, there is very famous shrimp named Kuruma ebi. Oddly, kuruma 車 means car or vehicle… I do not know the meaning behind this shrimps name.
There are a few famous areas to indulge in fresh kuruma ebi (not frozen!).
On Kume-jima 久米島, there are many kuruma ebi farms and most restaurants use fresh ebi in their dishes. On our overnight trip to Kume-jima, my husband ate 3 out 4 meals kuruma ebi at different restaurants, they were so fresh. Fried, grilled, sauteed, etc, he could not get enough. Kume-jima is a short 35 minute plane ride from Okinawa main island, or 4 hour ferry ride.
On Okinawa mainland, there is a famous farm, shop and restaurant in Ginoza which is located in the northern part of the island. We have not been yet but all the pictures look so good.
In the southern part of the island located in Nanjo, there are some kuruma ebi farms where you can buy them fresh.
Probably in the Makishi public market in downtown Naha you can also purchase kuruma ebi, but I do not go there often, just have seen pictures.
冬瓜 tougan in Japanese, シブイ shibui in Okinawan means “winter melon.”
Many Americans buy tougan thinking it is a watermelon… and then are very surprised. I guess it kinda looks similar, but not really. Tougan is another staple in Okinawan recipes.
Tougan is harvested in warm weather, but is able stay good for many months, so it is basically a year-round vegetable here.
Many people add it to stews or soups; I especially see it added to miso soups to make them more hearty. The vegetable itself can be a bit watery, and does not have much taste by itself, but it will soak in the flavors it cooks with. Also it is fairly cheap, making it popular here in Okinawa.
There is even a delicious Ryukyuan delicacy made out of this vegetable: Tougatsuke: 冬瓜漬. I recently visited an amazing little Ryukuan sweets shop that served this tougan “candy.”
Shibui-no-hi シブイの日 (Winter melon day) is on April 10th. They decided this by using “shi” from shibui, 4, and “tou” from tougan, 10. So 4/10, April 10th, is winter melon day.
I will find some more recipes and add them, but here is one to get started:
Tougan no shiri-shiri (Shredded winter melon salad) 冬瓜のシリシリー： シリシリー shirishiri refers to the way the tougan is cut, basically to shred. It is common style in Okinawa; often you see carrot shirishiri, but today, we can use it with tougan.
Peel wash, and shirishiri (shred) with a slicer. Add the tougan to a bowl and salt, let it sit and then drain to get some moisture out. Add cucumber (and the crab if using), and combine the seasonings, mixing well. Chill and serve.
Suika スイカ is the Japanese word for watermelon. Watermelon are a summer food here, and when I see them sold in the grocery stores, there is often a speaker playing cicada chirping by them (as a way of advertising, but it seems a bit odd to me). The prices for watermelon can be quite steep here; in a regular store it typically starts at 800円 at the cheapest, but often is more like 2000円. I mentioned in another post that westerners will frequently buy tougan 冬瓜 thinking they got a great deal on watermelon (tougan are probably like 300円) and then suffer disappointment when they cut it open. Alas, if you see a large elongated green produce, no stripes, for a cheap price– IT IS NOT WATERMELON! I was really surprised when I first heard of foreigners doing this… I think this is why it is so important to learn some basic Japanese while living here, even if it is only for a short time. Mistaking winter melon for a watermelon never really occurred to me, perhaps because I was fairly immersed in Japanese language from the moment I arrived on the island, not really protected by the culture of the American bases.
Nakijin town is famous in Okinawa for its watermelons. During the middle of summer, if you drive up to the Motobu peninsula, you can often find small roadside farm stands selling (imperfect) watermelon as cheap as 500円! Roadside stands are amazing; it allows farmers to sell produce at an unmanned stand where customers simply drop the payment in the collections box. If you see a small wooden stand on a rural road, stop and check it out. My neighborhood has a bounty of these boxes and I am always getting cheap fruits and vegetables from my neighbors small gardens. Talk about eating local. Occasionally some farmers will drive their vans down to the southern or central parts of the island to sell their produce slightly cheaper than the stores– my advice, always stop, you usually get a decent deal.
There is an old-fashioned watermelon smashing game played by children (and just as often adults…) in Japan called suika-wari スイカ割り. Usually it is played on the beach; the watermelon is put on a mat and it is a bit like piñata. One at a time, a player is blindfolded and tries to crack open the watermelon with a stick, and the first to crack it open wins.
うりずん
The season of urizun in Okinawa is the time of year between Spring and the rainy season; approximately in April (third month of the lunar calendar). It means “early summer.” It is just cool enough out, before the summer heat comes but after the winter chill has left. Urizun season is named after the urizun bean, which is a light green color, reminiscent of the fresh green sprouting leaves of spring.
The shell ginger plant, さんにん sannin in Okinawan and 月桃 gettou in Japanese, is very much a symbol of urizun. Perhaps because this is the time of year it blooms and you can see the beautiful flowers. The 2nd day of the 3rd month in the lunar calendar is sannin-no-hi サンニンの日, Sannin day. This is because “san” is 3 and “ni” is 2 in Japanese; together this san-ni sounds close to the word sannin. Sannin is also used in Okinawa sweets such as muuchii.
I visited a Japanese soba restaurant in Naha (not far from Kokusai-dori), called Minosaku 美濃作 that serves noodles made from sannin. So very delicious. I talked to the owner’s wife in Japanese, and she was so happy she gave me a postcard she designed for the shop. Now, I always crave their noodles during the spring to summer transition…
桜 or さくら sakura are cherry blossoms. Here in Okinawa, sakura are a bit different. For one, they start at the end of January (the rest of Japan starts in mid-March, April or even May usually). Second, they are usually a different species of sakura, called kanhi zakura 寒緋桜 (also known as hikan-zakura), which actually from Taiwan and southern China– instead of the cute fluffy pink, they tend to be a darker shade of pink. Still pretty, but not quite as voluminous and dramatic as sakura on the Japan mainland. Third, our sakura blooms start NORTH to SOUTH! On mainland Japan, the sakura wave starts in the south (warmer weather) and slowly makes it way to up north (Hokkaido has blooms in May!). But here in Okinawa it is reverse, our trees actually start blooming up in the northern part of the island and gradually spreads to the south. A bit strange.
So sakura season tends to be a bit of a different feeling here. That being said, my first spring here, the blossoms on my university street were towards the end of their blooming period and along came a gust of wind, showering me with petals as I walked along. Seriously, I thought that only happened in anime and drama?!
People here still eat some sakura sweets, like sakura mochi and sakura ice cream, and the stores will be inundated with sakura related products and foods during this time of year.
Sadly I have not had a chance to visit the Japan mainland during sakura season. Yet. Hopefully next year I will have some time.
sakura mochi and hishimochi
Keep in mind sakura trees are all over and you do not necessarily have to go to a crowded place to enjoy them. Really, I like to simply enjoy some on my campus during lunch hours! You may even spot several hills or small parks with a few trees– pull over and enjoy them without the crowds. You can even enjoy sakura at night!
However, there are some larger festivals in Okinawa for sakura-viewing (Hanami 花見, literally “flower watching”); here are some places to check out:
North: usually in bloom end of January, early February.
Nakijin Castle Ruins: Very pretty with the castle ruins as a backdrop. Everyone should try and see this site at least once. Traffic is still not great up here since it is a popular site, and also wear decent shoes. Usually there is a stand with sakura ice cream. 沖縄県国頭郡今帰仁村今泊5101 https://goo.gl/maps/1McvvaonwGt
Mount Yaedake: Probably the best location in my opinion– natural scenery, mountain-scape. There will be traffic but if you go early you will not deal with as much. 沖縄県本部町並里921 https://goo.gl/maps/GMFbfT13Rnt
South:
Naha Yogi Park: Early-late Feb. parking in the area is not so easy, so you may have to find a pay lot and walk. 沖縄県那覇市与儀1-1 https://goo.gl/maps/GAFEfWKJwSk
Yaese Park: Very late January to mid-February. Another nice park and a light-up in the evenings. 沖縄県八重瀬町富盛1637 https://goo.gl/maps/9YJQkpR83H42
**Missed sakura the first time around in Okinawa? Here is your second opportunity to see a special type of sakura located in Motobu (North) during mid-March into early April: Kume-no-Sakura: クメノサクラ
酒 sake is a general term in Japanese for “alcohol.” Unlike in Western usage, it can include beer, wine, whiskey, chuhai, plum wine, shochu, and of course, various types of rice wine or liquor.
日本酒 nihonshu means “Japanese liquor.” This is what foreigners typically call “sake.” Ask a Japanese person for sake, and they would be confused because it is not very specific. They might even just hand you a beer. Here in Okinawa, they may even assume you just mean the local booze awamori 泡盛.
There are many types of nihonshu; I list a few here, but I will have to add more later.
清酒 seishu means “clear liquor.”
にごり酒 nigori is a cloudy liquor.
生酒 nama-zake is unpasteurized, and difficult to find unless you go directly to the brewery. It must be refrigerated and usually consumed within a week or 2.
The following special designations are specified by the Japanese government and will be shown on the label. Basically they vary the ingredients and brewing technique, etc.
ginjo 吟醸
daiginjo 大吟醸
junmai 純米
junmai ginjo 純米吟醸
junmai daiginjo 純米大吟醸: this is considered the highest quality of nihonshu. Below is a picture of a bottle I received as a gift.This brand is Kubota 久保田 from 新潟県 Niigata prefecture. This particular brand gets a very high rating and is considered excellent quality. After trying it, I agree.
It is hard to know how to pick a good tasting sake/nihonshu when shopping about the store, so whenever you are on the mainland of Japan, visit some breweries and do some tastings! There are many out there. I have visited ones in Fukuoka, Kobe, Tsukuba, Ehime, and Nagano.
Tsuki-mi means “moon-watching,” tsuki= moon and mi= to watch/see. You will also hear moon-viewing festivals referred to as uchichiumachii ウチチウマチー（お月お祭り) in Okinawa language.
There are 2x you are supposed to view the full moon in Japanese culture. The first is Jugoya 十五夜 (also romanized Juugoya, translation “15th night”), held on August 15 of the lunar calendar; in Okinawan it is called Juuguya じゅーぐや. You may also often see it referred to as 中秋の名月 chuushuu no meigetsu, Mid-autumn moon festival or harvest festival. The second is Jusanya 十三夜 (also romanized Juusanya, translation “13th night”), September 13 of the lunar calendar. Jusanya is also referred to as 後の月 nochi no tsuki (later moon). It is often thought to bring bad luck to celebrate only Jugoya, since the 2 moon-viewing days are related.
In Okinawa, there are some special types of “mooncakes” called fuchagi ふちゃぎ, that are eaten. It is mochi, a.k.a. “rice cakes” (possibly flavored with brown sugar, yomogi/mugwort, beniimo, or just plain) covered in azuki beans. I will add more posts about beans in the future, but basically beans are known to drive out or keep away demons (oni 鬼). I have no real good idea as to why beans hold such mystical powers, but almost every holiday or celebration involves beans in some way.
For my celebration, I mixed in a little Chinese mooncakes, as well as Okinawan fuchagi, and Japanese dango 団子. Very multi-cultural. I also drank some wine, set up some pampas (susuki ススキ) grass, but did not write any poetry (haiku 俳句)… sorry Moon.
There is also a children’s song; Japanese people believe you can see a rabbit pounding mochi in the moon. The song and translation is something like this:
うさぎ うさぎ Rabbit, rabbit
うさぎ うさぎ Rabbit, rabbit
何見て はねる What are you watching while hopping/leaping around?
十五夜お月さま The Juugoya moon
見てはねる is what I watch while hopping/leaping around!
In Itoman, a large Tug-of-War (tsunahiki) is held on Juugoya; many places will have lion dances 獅子舞 (shishimai) or other festive events, such as hounen-matsuri 豊年祭 (Harvest festivals), during this time of year, to celebrate the moon, the changing of seasons, and harvest time.
Shuri-jo holds a Mid-Autumn banquet (Chuushuu no utage 中秋の宴) festival around Juugoya and Autumn Equinox. During the era of the Ryukyu Kingdom, a banquet was held to entertain the Chinese emperor envoys, and today a moon-viewing party reenacts the “Mid-Autumn Banquet” in the present day. There is a parade, and a King and Queen contest is held. At this festival, you can see kumiodori (traditional Ryukyuan dance), beautiful costumes, and traditional music, as the castle is lit up at night.
In Okinawa, Juugoya is also falls on one of the days for taking care of the family hinukan (read more on the link).
屋台 yatai are small street stalls typically only open at night. It is a small wooden structure with curtains, and inside is a counter for customers to sit around while the owner(s) cook and prepare dishes. And as with most things Japanese, alcohol is often involved.
These are not common in Okinawa, unfortunately (there is one small “yatai mura” 屋台村 where there are about a dozen clustered together on a street in Naha, here). However, in Fukuoka (the site of my most recent adventure) they line the streets around train stations and canals in the evening.
We saw the most famous Kokin-chan 小金ちゃん, but the line was very long so we searched around and came to Yosaku 与作. It had a Japanese-only menu, and while still in the touristy area, a bit removed from the ones aimed solely at gaijin. My very tall husband and I took an awkward seat. I read the menu, and noticed this sort of savory pancake looking item on another customer’s plate. It looked oishii, so I asked “sumimasen, nandesu ka?” while pointing. She pointed at 山芋ネギ焼き on the menu, assuming I would not understand the answer. So I read it, turned to the owners and ordered (in Japanese) 1 regular ramen ラーメン, 1 yaki-ramen 焼きラーメン, 1 yama-imo negi yaki 山芋ネギ焼き and 2 bottles of beer ビール. The other Japanese folks decided to clap, I guess they were surprised. I feel like plenty of gaijin can speak Japanese, and mine is barely passable, but it is pretty much always a shock to 日本人 Japanese people. Anyway, when we got our beers, everyone kampai’d us and we spent an enjoyable time eating and drinking with the customers next to us.
If you find yourself in Fukuoka past 6pm, be sure to wander the streets near the train station and pop into one of these small stalls (avoid the canal area, it is mostly geared towards foreign tourists). Each one has different specialities, although Hakata ramen is available at pretty much all of them. Order a drink and some food, then slowly soak in the evening with the other patrons. It is a sort of quaint and unique experience that shows the real feeling of Japan.
Fukuoka also has some nice gardens where you can have tea during the day: here.
