Grocery Stores: スーパー

スーパー “suupaa” is the Japanese-English name for grocery store.

In Okinawa, there are a few different grocery store chains, as well as a wealth of farmers markets. This is a list of the grocery stores you can find here in Okinawa.

*Many use romaji in their name instead of kana! Later I will try to add in their logos for quick recognition. If you copy and paste the Japanese name of the store into GoogleMaps it will show you the closest location to you.


SanA サンエー: This is a local chain; some are malls (with grocery) and some are just grocery stores. They are distinctive with the yellow sign with 3 red triangles. There is a point card that you can get at the information desk; for every 200円 you spend, you earn 1 point and after some obscene number of points you earn 1000円 discount certificate. You can only earn points when you pay cash (not credit card).

Kanehide かねひで: This chain has a green sign with 2 little orange birds. They are also part of a DIY store called Cainz.

Union ユニオン: This store has “UNION” in red lettering on front. Union often has low prices for many things, but perhaps lacks a bit in variety.

Gyomu Super 業務スーパー: This is an interesting store, with some imports and “bulk” items, even some halal items. I say “bulk” as this is Japanese bulk, not really Costco or anything. They usually do small restaurant supply type items.

Marudai 丸大: This chain has 3 birds on the logo. There are not very close to me, but they have good variety. There are quite a few near Naha, and one in Yomitan.

Ryubo リウボウ: Ryubo has recently been remodeling a few of the stores into more upscale versions… a lot of import items, rare items… expensive items. But some really nice variety when you want to find something special. I think some of the un-renovated stores still exist and are not quite as nice, but luckily I live near the newly redone versions.

APrice A-プライス: Another “bulk” store. The logo has a little red chef on it. Sometimes they have some import items, and interesting variety. I don’t go here on a regular basis, or with a list of needs… I usually just browse to see what they have that I want to cook with.

ACoop: This store is associated with JA (Japan Agriculture). I have a small branch within walking distance of my house. Despite being small, I can often find essentials here, but nothing fancy.

CO-OP: Not be confused with ACoop, this store has a red apple logo on it. I do not have any close to me, so it is a rare occasion that I go here. There are some organic items here, however. The workers often go to anti-military base protests, in case that bothers you. It does not bother me particularly, so if there was one close it probably would not stop me from shopping there.

Aeon イオン: Major mainland chain, malls and grocery stores. You can buy a Waon card and load it up with yen. Then if you use it to pay at check out, you earn points. Points earned turned into yen reloaded on your card. Plus it makes a cute barking sound when you pay. Overall, more expensive than some of the other chain groceries.

Aeon Big Express ザビッグエクスプレス: related to above, a more discount version. Usually nothing fancy, but it has the essentials.

MaxValueマックスバリュ: also related to above, another “discount” version, but usually a little nicer than the BigExpress.


Next time, perhaps a look at some of the farmers markets where the best prices on produce can be found.

 

Wagashi: 和菓子

Wagashi are Japanese sweets. For now, I will digress from Okinawa related topics and focus on Japan.

和 wa is used for “Japanese” and 菓子 kashi means “sweets” or “confections,” but it can also sort of just mean candy or snacks. So 和菓子 wagashi are Japanese style sweets. 洋菓子 yougashi means Western style confections.

I am lucky that here in Okinawa there are a few very nice wagashi shops. One of my favorites is called Usagi-ya うさぎや on Route 34 in Ginowan, not too far from my university. By the way “usagi” is such a cute name, it means “rabbit” in Japanese. The や ya after it just means “shop” or “store.”

Wagashi overall encompasses many types of sweet, but below are some examples of my favorites, called Nama-gashi 生菓子 which are “fresh sweets.” So delicate, fragrant, artistic. I posted here about some of the different types of wagashi.

Some have anko あんこ (sweet azuki bean paste), some have other seasonal flavors (such as chestnut, sakura) or maybe just a white bean paste. The shapes are always so beautiful and usually related to the time of year; this is year of the monkey, so during the new year I purchased a monkey, a bamboo, and plum blossoms. Other times there will be matsutake mushroom shape, maple leaf, ginkgo leaf, sakura… always amazing.

I hope everyone can enjoy a taste of Japan.

Address for Usagi-ya: 1 Chome-6-2 Ganeko, Ginowan, Okinawa Prefecture 901-2214

https://goo.gl/maps/UmzhGWvxxMN2

山の茶屋楽水: Yama-no-chaya Rakusui

山の茶屋 Yama-no-chaya means “mountain tea house.”

Located in Nanjo (南城市), the southern area of Okinawa, this charming restaurant is quite popular and offers beautiful views, delicious food, and a garden walk. It is very popular, so it is important to show up early. It has a sister restaurant called Hamabe-no-chaya 浜辺の茶屋 (meaning “teahouse by the beach”), a few meters down the way located on the beach front and offering a more casual menu. Hamabe-no-chaya also has nice view overlooking the ocean, but I much prefer the food at Yama-no-chaya.

From the parking lot, you will see some walking sticks at the base of the stairs; feel free to use these, although the “climb” is not difficult, it may make it easier for elders or fun for children. When you get to the restaurant, they will present you with an English menu if you do not look Japanese. Try to get one of the window seats on the top floor if possible, although the entire inside is gorgeous.

We order a wood-fired pizza, salad, and the Sachibaru set meal, which is a vegetarian teishoku: it usually comes as miso/asa/tofu soup, tenpura, purple rice, pickles, umibudou, fruit, jimami tofu, konbu/konnyaku side dish, some kind of leafy green and peanut sauce, and sweetened barley. It may change a bit depending on the season, but the set meal is really so amazing. A must-try.

 

Sachibaru-no-niwa さちばるの庭 is the name of the gardens on the premise, and if you eat there you can enter the gardens for free. It is a very pleasant area to walk after lunch, however be sure to utilize their free bug spray during summer months.

Not only this, but it is reasonably priced! For the two of us it ends up to by ~3000円 since we do not hold back, but overall the quality is well worth this price.

I can never understand why gaikokujin insist on going to the low-quality and overly touristy restaurant in the area (I will not comment the name, but ask any gaijin about “food with a view in southern Okinawa” and they will probably mention something about “thai in the sky,” a place I highly do not recommend!) when such a wonderful place like Yama-no-chaya exists!

Address: 〒901-0604 沖縄県南城市玉城字玉城2-1


BONUS: Hamabe-no-chaya pictures. This place shares the same parking lot as its sister restaurant, so just copy & paste the same address into google maps. You can sit inside or outside, or even on the rooftop tables. Here you will be closer to the beach.

Sugarcane: サトウキビ

Satoukibi サトウキビ is Japanese for sugarcane. And here in Okinawa, there is a lot of it. Nearby my house are many sugar cane fields, and often in summer while it grows tall we down the quiet roads lined with sugarcane, listening to the rustling in the wind and the insects. In some ways, it is very Ghibli-like, and that is when I realize I really live in the Japanese countryside.

Okinawa is famous for the product of sugarcane, brown sugar (黒糖 kokutou), sold in every store, market, and tourist shop.

In our neighboring town, there is a products fair about once a year. It features a toumitsu 糖蜜 (sugarcane molasses) contest, where the ojiisans sit around drinking awamori while pressing/boiling sugarcane from their fields. I guess there are awards or something, but as far as I could tell it was really an excuse for ojiisans to drink and gossip. They did let us try their products though, which were quite delicious.

More Adventures in Tea: 茶室

茶道 Cha-dou: The way of Tea.
My most recent adventure in Fukuoka included an afternoon break at a small Japanese garden tucked away from the hustle of the city. Within the tranquil garden was a cha-shitsu 茶室, meaning tea room. We were served matcha 抹茶 and delicate Japanese confections. While we soaked in the atmosphere and drank tea, a crane (tsuru 鶴) came to visit the garden. What a nice atmosphere.

Cafe & Restaurant Magazines

Wander into any bookstore in Okinawa and you will see a variety of local guides to food (not paid ads!). These guides are typically less than 1000円 (10 USD). Although they are in Japanese, they are great resources; simply look at the pictures for each place and whatever looks good, find it on the map insert, or better yet put the phone number into google maps. Easy-peasy. Pretty much every place I have tried from these books is pretty good.

Egg Vending Machines: 卵の自動販売機

So everyone hears about how Japan has some crazy vending machines… usually this is not as true as everyone thinks it is (except for maybe in Akihabara). Well, in Okinawa we do have egg vending machines! This is not as weird as it sounds, as the eggs are delivered 4-5x per day fresh from nearby chicken farms; there are even a fair number of options to choose from at the machine. Pretty cool. We discovered this a long time ago, a bit by accident while driving down one of the more rural roads, so naturally we had to stop and check it out. Since then, whenever we are in the area, of course we have to pick some up!

This particular machine is from a company called Minasu 見奈須 located in Nanjo, the southern part of Okinawa. They operate vending machines at 3 locations in the area. There are a few other machines from other companies that I have heard of, but I think this may be the largest one.

The Japanese word for egg is たまご tamago. The 卵 kanji is typically used for raw eggs although can sometimes be used for cooked eggs (in particular half-cooked eggs), and can also refer to eggs from any type of animal. The 玉子  kanji refers to cooked eggs only. They are all pronounced ta-ma-go.

The Japanese word for vending machine is 自動販売機 ji-dou-han-bai-ki, or 自販機 ji-han-ki for short.


South

The location for this particular machine (Nanjo) is approximately here:  https://goo.gl/maps/T1mz3e5FJUK2

2nd Minasu machine, in front of the actual Minasu egg farm in Nanjo:  https://goo.gl/maps/BcQwb2tSYHK2

And the 3rd Minasu Egg Farm Vending machine location:
https://goo.gl/maps/z3eAUcroaz12

Another brand is in front of a place called CAKE&EGG in Haebaru:  https://goo.gl/maps/EhgA3L34mQU2

Itoman, Uehara Youkei vending machine: https://goo.gl/maps/VSeghofjigv


Central

For EM (effective microorganisms) eggs, there is a machine in Nishihara:  https://goo.gl/maps/29ieZe55t1H2


North

Location in Yomitan, next to the police box (before you reach Marudai Market on Rt 6), look for the flags that say たまご:
https://goo.gl/maps/d32HyRS5oS42

**There are some more locations not mentioned yet, updates will come soon.


More photos, this machine is located in Nishihara:

Miso in Okinawa: 味噌

味噌: miso, also seen on packages as みそ in hiragana.

A popular ingredient throughout Japan. Here in Okinawa, there is a local specialty miso called andansu アンダンスー, but it can also labeled 油みそ (abura miso) or even 肉みそ (niku miso) for the pork based or かつお (katsuo) for the katsuo based. It is miso with bits of pork in it, or sometimes katsuo かつお (鰹, tuna type of fish) depending on the recipe. You can find it in local grocery stores and farmers markets, although it is not always near the other miso pastes… sometimes I find it by meats or prepared foods, or even in the “local specialities” section. At farmers markets it is often sold in simple containers or even just plastic bags (usually from local obaasan that make it at home to sell), but most grocery stores sell the commercial versions. You can even make your own andansu of you live outside of Okinawa (recipe here).

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commercial types, usually near the omiyage/souvenir section

Obviously this is not one I go for since I do not eat pork, but my husband likes it.

Andansu is used in several dishes or even just as a condiment on rice. A popular treat called ぽーぽー popo, sort of a rolled crepe made from eggs, flour and brown sugar, puts a bit of andansu in the middle.

So as a reminder, not all miso is vegetarian in Okinawa! However if you don’t mind a bit of pork, you should try some andansu while in Okinawa.

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andansu from the farmers market; sometimes they are packaged even in just plain white containers with almost no labelling except for 「アンダンスー」

Skewers: 串 

串 kushi: skewer. The kanji even looks like a skewer, so easy to remember!

串屋: kushi-ya, the place where you will find grilled or fried skewered food. Kushi-yaki 串焼き is grilled, kushi-katsu 串カツ is fried. Similarly, there is 焼き鳥 yakitori which is grilled chicken and 炭火焼き sumibi-yaki which is charcoal grilled foods. All of these tend to mean skewered food in different variations.

In my opinion, these tend to be great drinking establishments; you can order individual sticks and small dishes over the course of the night.

Even though I do not eat meats, there are often times many other types of skewers and side dishes I can eat. Commonly you will find shiitake mushrooms, onions, shishitou peppers, garlic, potato, corn, tofu, ginkgo nuts, eggplant, lotus root… I also like edamame to snack on, and most establishments will serve you raw cabbage with tare (たれ sauce) for free. My husband likes the spicy cucumber pickles, too.

The kushi-katsu are fried, so this can be a little bit heavy while drinking. But fried foods and beer do seem to go well together. One of my favorites is 紅生姜 benishouga (pickled ginger). It sounds a little odd, deep-fried pickled ginger, but give it a try! Something about the flavor is really good to me. I always order it when we go to fried skewer restaurants.

There are even some chains that do all-you-can-eat kushi-katsu where you fry at your table! You get a plate and pick up the foods you want (meats, fish, vegetables, etc) and bring it back to you table, slather in batter and go. I warn you, you will smell like a fry pit when you leave; luckily they have storage underneath you seats for any jackets, purses, etc to protect them from the smell. It is a unique and fun experience, though, so try it out when you are in Japan.

Toufu no Higa:とうふの比嘉

Toufu no Higa is located on Ishigaki-jima, a small island in the southern Ryukyu chain (Yaeyamas). If you find yourself on this island that has world class diving sites, you must make a stop here.

Yes, tofu is in the name because they make tofu products. No, it is nothing like the prepackaged junk they sell in the US. It is DELICIOUS. Even if you say “I don’t like tofu, that is slimey hippie stuff,” you must try it. It is amazing.

The best part is they are even open for breakfast (no they do not have Western breakfast foods). It is always busy with local workmen, so you know it is cheap and good. Their menu is all in Japanese, so if you have no working knowledge of Japanese language, just point to what everyone else is ordering and hold up the number of fingers of how many set meals you want.

One of my classmates was asking me questions about where I have traveled in Okinawa. When I mentioned I went to Ishigaki, she said she was from there and asked what I liked about, what I did there. I told her how much I loved Toufu no Higa, she burst out laughing and she explained her father ate there every day. She was baffled and could not believe a westerner would like such a place.

We had the yushi-doufu set. It came with fresh soymilk and it was seriously just amazing.

Address:

English: 570 Ishigaki, Okinawa Prefecture 907-0023

Japanese: 〒907-0023 沖縄県石垣市 石垣島石垣570

Tea: お茶

Tea is all the same plant “Camellia Sinensis,” the difference is how it is grown and processed.

Tea is culturally and historically significant in Japan, as well as the rest of Asia, so let us introduce some Japanese terms to identify tea.  This is a quick guide for the beginning tea-enthusiast who has relocated to Okinawa and is interested in figuring out how and what to purchase.

茶 cha: This just means tea.  Okay, maybe you knew that one already.

緑茶 ryokucha: this simply means green tea.  There are several types listed as following.

煎茶 sencha: This is the most common drinking tea in Japan. It is grown in full sun. Besides in the form of  leaves, sencha can also be in the form of a powder (粉), so it can be difficult to distinguish from matcha if you do not know what to look for.

玉露茶 gyokuro cha: This tea is a very high quality green tea; less than half of one percent of all Japanese green tea ends up as gyokuro. About three weeks before harvest, the tea plants that are reserved for gyokuro are put under 90% shade (same as matcha). This changes the characteristics of the resulting tea quite a bit. Due to the extra labor and care involved, gyokuro green tea is considerably more expensive than other types of green tea.

抹茶 matcha: The leaves are crushed into a fine powder.  Matcha is used in tea ceremony and for making sweets and confections; it is not typically drunk everyday, but on special occasions. It is grown in the shade like gyokuro cha.  A simple way to think of it is matcha is powdered gyokuro cha.

**You may see 抹茶入る : this means that matcha is used but not necessarily exclusively. Many drinks and powders will advertise this, but it is frequently mixed with sencha (or possible other types of tea), so read carefully.

Some notes of interest: earlier or first harvests are typically higher quality, however also higher cost.  A really superb, high quality Japanese green tea will never really be cheap.  Kyoto Uji cha (京都宇治茶) is renown for its high quality.

Some people prefer organic products, so be on the lookout for 有機 pronounced “yuuki” on the label.


Other types of tea to be familiar with:

新茶 shincha: This is called new tea, which is a first harvest tea. It is described as having qualities of sweetness.  Typically shincha is considered very good quality.

番茶 bancha: a late harvest green tea. Since the quality of late harvest green teas are lower than the first harvest, it is often this is used to make some other unusual types of green tea such as genmaicha (described below), and another type known as houjicha, which is baked and produces a reddish color liquid with little to no caffeine.

玄米茶 genmaicha: This is green tea mixed with roasted (puffed) brown rice.

ほうじ茶 houjicha: This is made using roasted tea leaves, giving it a mild taste with much less bitterness; good fragrance and typically low caffeine.

紅茶 koucha: This is black tea; the leaves are completely fermented.

烏龍茶,ウーロン茶 uuron cha: oolong tea, Chinese style tea which involves withering the plant under strong sun and oxidation.

さんぴん茶 sanpin cha: The popular Okinawa jasmine tea!  Also considered Chinese style tea, with a lovely fragrance. On the mainland it is usually labelled ジャスミン茶 Jasumin-cha.

麦茶 mugi-cha: This is barley tea, so not even from the “Camellia Sinensis” plant, instead made with roasted barley.  Caffeine-free.  I include this one simply because you see it quite commonly.

うっちん茶 ucchin-cha (Okinawan) or ウコン茶 ukon-cha (Japanese): This is another Okinawan tea, this time made from turmeric. This is also very low in caffeine and supposedly excellent for you health (especially liver). I mention liver health because Japanese, Okinawans in particular, seem to drink alcohol quite a bit, so ukon is used as a health supplement around here.

グァバ茶 guaba-cha: Guava tea. Also caffeine-free, made from guava leaves, and supposedly healthy for you.

ハイビスカス茶 haibisbusu cha: Hibiscus tea. This is a pretty pink-red color herbal tea, made from roselle, the part of the hibiscus flower. It tastes a little “fruity.”


Everything said and done, buy what you like to fit your tastes, budget, and use. Whenever possible, try a sample and decide for yourself.  My husband likes the tea from Higashi village (東村) from here in Okinawa, and it is very affordable (okay, cheap, it is by no means high quality, simply local)… so taste is relative.  There are places you can sample and buy tea: Naha downtown Ryubo department store, Lupicia at the new Rycom mall, tea shop in American village Aeon are some examples. Otherwise, you can shop the farmers markets and grocery stores for more basic teas.

As a last reminder check 産地 for origin of the product.  国産 means domestic Japan, 中国 is China, 韓国 is South Korea. Depending on the quality of the tea, it may also show the locality within Japan. 静岡 Shizuoka, 鹿児島 Kagoshima, 三重 Mie, 京都 Kyoto, 神奈川 Kanagawa, 愛知 Aichi, 福岡 Fukuoka, 熊本 Kumamoto, 宮崎 Miyazaki, 岐阜 Gifu, and 佐賀 Saga are some of the tea regions in Japan. Tea from Okinawa will be labelled 沖縄産. Different countries and regions have different characteristics in flavor and fragrance; I have enjoyed visiting and exploring many tea-growing regions here in Japan, South Korea, and Taiwan, and I encourage everyone to do the same as it is quite a relaxing and amazing experience.  No trip to Japan (or Asia for that matter) is complete without a stroll through a major tea-producing region’s fields.

Hopefully this quick guide provides some useful information for your next trip to the Okinawan grocery or other specialty store as you look for the green tea of your choice.

This is only the tip of the iceberg… I have not even included all the herbal or other specialty teas. Maybe in another post for another time.

For a unique experience in Okinawa, try Bukubuku cha, a type of Okinawa tea ceremony.

If you are more interested in Chinese tea, there are some spots in Okinawa to try Gongfu tea.

Chanpuru: チャンプルー

チャンプルー chanpuru means something mixed in Okinawa language. In Okinawa, there is “chanpuru culture” because there are so many different influences (American, Chinese, Japanese and traditional Ryukyu).

Chanpuru is a classic Okinawan dish that is stir-fried. There are many types of chanpuru, each featuring different foods. Typically some vegetables are stir-fried with a bit of egg, spam (or maybe pork), and tofu. Some dishes have bean sprouts, some have green onions, some have carrot or cabbage… I notice there are not a lot of “hard and fast” rules when it comes to chanpuru. The sauce is some combination to your taste, involving shoyu, dashi, cooking sake, and perhaps miso. Again, everyone obaasan has her own recipe. Otherwise, in grocery stores here in Okinawa, you can actually buy a sauce in the bottle. I was gifted some by one of my ladies. She had heard how much my husband loved goya and thoughtfully put together a Christmas gift basket of foods for us.

Goya chanpuru: probably the most “popular.” It is sort of the quintessential Okinawan dish, using the classic goya (bitter melon) as the center of the stir-fry, alongside some tofu, egg, spam and maybe some other veggies.

Fu chanpuru: fu is an interesting thing. It is usually long tubes of wheat gluten, often bits are added to miso soup here in Okinawa. It is very cheap, available in all grocery stores, and no real taste so it really soaks up whatever flavors you cook with. It has quickly become a favorite for my husband as it is fairly low in calories and takes on so much flavor of what it is cooked with. He has taken to ordering it at local shokudo where the waitress will sometimes look at him funny; I assume most large American gentlemen are not inclined to order it normally. But seriously, what starts as completely tasteless turns into a really flavorful food that soaks up a ton of sauce and seasoning. IMG_2276

Somen chanpuru: somen そうめん are simply very thin noodles. So this is essentially noodles stir-fried with sauce and vegetables. The taste is very different than yakisoba, though, so don’t get your hopes up. It probably my least favorite of the chanpuru variations, but still, the taste is okay. They just don’t soak up the flavor like fuu does.

Tofu chanpuru: The other chanpuru only have a bit of tofu, so this version has a lot of tofu. It is probably what you would expect, large bits of tofu with some vegetables with pork or spam in sauce.

Hechima chanpuru: this one is actually pretty rare to find, but I have seen it on occasion. I mean, it is hechima (loofah in English, nabera in Okinawan) so it really is not so popular, even among Okinawans.

For those of us in Okinawa, making chanpuru could not be easier with the widespread availability of all the ingredients. There is even a chanpuru sauce sold in grocery stores (if you do not want to bother making your own).

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Hechima: ヘチマ

Hechima, a.k.a sponge gourd or loofah vegetable. Many mainland Japanese do not consider eating this vegetable and instead make sponges from it. However, hechima is a staple in Okianwan cuisine. The Okinawan word is “nabera” ナーベーラー and “hechima” ヘチマ is the Japanese word.

While I was at an onsen resort on the mainland, I talked to some people about Okinawan food like hechima and goya. They had never eaten either, and were shocked to learn that these foreigners had. I guess it goes to show how different Okinawan cuisine is from typical Japanese cuisine. That being said, I will be the first to admit I do not love hechima, but tolerate it mostly because it is cheap. It can be very watery when you cook it, so you need to find a way to absorb or get rid of the excess water that comes out when it cooks.

There are simple ways to eat it; most involve some sort of stir-fry or sauté. When I asked the (older) Okinawan ladies that I teach eikawa (English conversation), they recommended spam and hechima fried in a bit of oil (okay, actually I think they said pork fat not oil, but do as you prefer). On a few restaurant menus I have seen hechima chanpuru (basically a type of Okinawa stir-fry); I also recently found a hechima tempura recipe, though I worry it might be a bit watery for this, perhaps the crispy tempura will balance it out. It is also a popular item to add to simple soups (an easy way is consumme soup, hechima cut into pieces, small pieces of ham, and some Japanese mushrooms). I suppose I will continue to try various recipes until I find something I truly like with hechima. Even my ladies admitted they did not like hechima as children, but it has grown on them, sort of a “soul food” for them now.

**Recipe for “Hechima Steaks” on this page, scroll down to find hechima.

In the picture below, hechima is on the far left. It curiously resembles a cucumber or maybe a zucchini in outward appearance a bit, but when you cut into it, you will see that it is much different.

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Island peppers: 島唐辛子

Shima tougarashi 島唐辛子 are island peppers, similar to small thai chilis. These type of small red peppers are also common in Hawai’i.

While Hawaiians make chili water, Okinawans make koregusu コーレーグース (also seen as コーレーグス). The difference is Okinawans put the chilis in Awamori 泡盛. Yup, that’s the recipe, just add some small red chilis to cheap awamori, let it “age” a bit, and you have Okinawa’s equivalent of hot sauce. I read someone use a ratio of 20 peppers to 200mL of awamori, but my husband says that is not really enough and to just add as much as you like. Suffice to say, it is simple to make at home (check out the “recipe” in my recipes section). Sometimes I buy bottles from little obaasans that bottle their own in the farmers markets or alongside the road.

If you like this, you may consider also trying hiruzaki ヒルザキ, made from island garlic and awamori.

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Awamori: 泡盛

Awamori 泡盛 is the local liquor here in the Ryukyu Islands. It is very different than Japanese mainland liquor 日本酒 nihonshu or “sake” as many foreigners refer to it as.  Sake 酒 actually means “alcohol” in Japanese and refers to everything from beer and chuhai to seishu and whiskey.

Awamori gets its name from the bubbles (awa 泡) that appear on it surface when it is distilled. Since it is unique to Okinawa, you may also hear it called shima-zake 島酒 (translation: island liquor).

Firstly, awamori is distilled and not brewed, which makes it more similar to shochu 焼酎. It is also made from long-grain Thai rice, not Japanese short-grain rice. Occasionally you will hear it referred to as shima-zake 島酒, “island liquor.” If an awamori has been aged more than 3 years in a clay pot, it is then considered kusu 古酒, “old liquor.” Typically the alcohol content of awamori is 25%-45%… so be careful, it can be quite potent.

Some important to note is aging time: similar to a whiskey, aging changes the flavor a lot. If there is no indication of aging time on the label, it is under 3 years and considered “new” liquor. Otherwise, you will see 3 year, 5 year, 8 year, 10 year… probably not a lot older than this but you might find some. 古酒 “kusu” is the kanji to look for when searching for an aged awamori.

Personally, I mostly only use awamori to make “koregusu” コーレーグス, the local chili water you see on all the tables of shokudo restaurants. In this case, I just buy whatever is cheap or on sale.

There are many distilleries on the islands where you can see how it is made and try some samples. Behind Shuri-jo is the Zuisen distillery 瑞泉 and Chuko distillery 忠孝蔵 in Tomigusuku is a second place. Another recently discovered location is Masahiro in Itoman.


addresses for Awamori distilleries you can visit and sample:

South:

Zuisen 瑞泉酒造: 〒903-0814 沖縄県那覇市首里崎山町1-35  https://goo.gl/maps/xbi3ERYZC2n

Masahiro まさひろ酒造: 〒901-0306 沖縄県糸満市西崎町5-8-7  https://goo.gl/maps/TrEFwEeDUWz

Chuko 忠孝蔵: 豊見城市字伊良波 556-2  https://goo.gl/maps/oAyUbJFut192

North:

Helios ヘリオス酒造: 〒905-0024 沖縄県名護市許田405  https://goo.gl/maps/LbKTCDvjmuy

Umibudou: 海ぶどう

Umibudou- 海 means “ocean” and ぶどう means “grapes.” Sea grapes are sometimes referred to as green caviar, even though it is a type of seaweed. Little salty bubbles grow from the stems, so that we you eat it you get a little burst of salty southern sea in you mouth. It is a unique and refreshing mouth sensation, one that goes quite well with a cold beer in summertime. Umibudou are often served as a side dish in Okinawa izakaya. Usually the umibudou are served with shoyu and vinegar (ponzu ポン酢).

Rich in minerals, low in calories, umibudou are indeed a nice side dish when you relax and drink.IMG_4570

Shokudo: 食堂

Shokudo translates to “dining hall.” This can mean a cafeteria or just a local restaurant. Whenever I see the kanji 食堂, I know I am going to get a cheap, simple meal popular with locals… which is pretty much always good.

At shokudo, there are often teishoku 定食, meaning “set meals.” You meal will come with small sides, like pickles or vegetables, maybe a small salad, miso soup, rice, etc. Often times, these places have self-service water and tea instead of offering much in the way of soft drinks.

In Okinawa, shokudo usually offer the local favorites of Okinawa soba, chanpuru, tonkatsu, ebi-fry, curry sets. Here are some examples:


Some recommended local shokudo:

Aichan Shokudo 愛ちゃん食堂: https://goo.gl/maps/YRyJLyW7hqJ2

Awase Soba Shokudo アワセそば食堂: https://goo.gl/maps/yBDpEFSrJKv

Cafe Mermaid カフェマーメイド: https://goo.gl/maps/Dmv4FLmVVFD2

Cafe Wa かふぇわ: https://goo.gl/maps/98BJHcF5WAJ2

Miyako Soba Nakayoshi: read the post here.

Goya: ゴーヤー

No discussion on Okinawan food is complete without the inclusion of the infamous vegetable goya ゴーヤー, a.k.a. bitter melon. This beloved vegetable is often touted as one of the reasons behind Okinawan people’s longevity. That being said, many non-Okinawans do not care for goya. Bizarrely, it is the complete opposite in my house– my husband loves it!

Goya is fairly easy to prepare and can be turned into a variety of dishes. When you get a goya, follow a few simple steps to prepare it for cooking and mitigate the bitter taste. First, cut the goya in half lengthwise, so you have 2 long strips of goya. The seeds and pith will be exposed; if any of the seeds are reddish color THAT IS OKAY, do not panic and throw it out, it is is normal. Next you will need to remove and discard the seeds and pith; my favorite way to do this is actually with a grapefruit spoon because it has those nice little scraping edges. Once the middle is cleaned, sprinkle the INSIDE (not outside) of the goya with salt and let it sit for awhile (maybe 15 minutes, half hour). Rinse and it is ready to use.

There are many ways to use it, although probably #1 in Okinawa is in a dish called goya chanpuru ゴーヤーチャンプルー. Chanpuru just means a stir-fry type dish (you will see many types of chanpuru listed on the menus in Okinawa shokudo). Goya chanpuru is typically a combination of egg, goya, tofu, bean sprouts, spam, and chanpuru sauce. You can make your own chanpuru sauce or buy it from the grocery.

You can also make goya pickles, goya tenpura, or even just grill the goya. My husband loves to just grill goya in the summertime, as a side to hotdogs or hamburgers. He just takes a half goya (cleaned) and marinates in some oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper, then grills until tender.

**I have updated the page with some goya recipes.

Goya pickles can be seen at the bottom of this picture; pickles are a must for izakaya food.

Additionally, Okinawa’s home-grown fast food joint Jef is home of goya burgers, rings, and juice. If you are touristing around Okinawa, you may want to check them out!

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Okinawa’s beer of choice: Orion オリオン

Orion is locally brewed in Okinawa, and therefore popular here. It is tolerable, sort of comparable to Budweiser I suppose. Anyway, if you make it to Okinawa, a stop at the Orion Beer factory where you go on a free tour and receive 2 beers afterwards is a must.

Orion actually has many varieties that it sells; some are seasonal or limited edition, and others are old standbys. Here are a few of I have imbibed over the years:

“Splash beat” is new this summer; not too bad. The next one is a Shikwasa beer (shikwasa is sort of an Okinawan lime), and again, not too bad, but a little strange. Third is obviously draft; “nama bi-ru” 生ビール means draft beer in Japanese. Aeon Rycom is regular Orion with a special label to commemorate the opening of a very large shopping mall in Okinawa. Erm, yes… it is a small island sometimes and you celebrate things like this. Next is ちゅらたいむ “chura taimu” which is a mix of Okinawan (chura meaning beautiful) and Japanese-English (taimu which is TIME). This is actually a lovely summer beer that I quite enjoyed.

Muuchii: ムーチー

Muuchii ムーチー (鬼餅) is Okinawa’s version of Japanese mochi もち (餅). It is made with glutinous rice flour, however that is seemingly where the similarities end. Muuchii is fairly simple to make and the ingredients can easily be found in the grocery.

*you may see muuchii also spelled as: muchi or muuchi in Roman characters.

The muuchii is prepared with the desired flavor and shaped into rectangle-ish shapes, placed in the center of the shell ginger leaf (sannin サンニン, 月桃 in Okinawan). Sannin is used because it is believed to have anti-bacterial and healing properties. It is then wrapped like a little package and tied, then steamed for a few minutes. So ono!

It is sometimes called カーサムーチー caasa muuchii; カーサ caasa refers to “leaves” as in the sannin leaves used to wrap the muuchii.

There are many different flavors that are used. One is Okinawan brown sugar 黒糖 “kokutou.” Another popular flavor is purple sweet potato, beniimo 紅芋. I have also made taro flavor; this has many names (I probably need an entire post on this). Tanmu ターンム or taamu ターム in Okinawan (dependent on location, as Okinawa language has many variations),  and taimo 田芋 in Japanese. You can also find plain flavors (these are often labeled as 白 white or 赤 red/pink), as well as yomogi よもぎ (mugwort), ninjin 人参 (carrot), and kabocha かぼちゃ (pumpkin).

**Muuchii-no-hi ムーチーの日 is on 12/8 of the lunar calendar; this date is very important to Okinawans. Especially those that have a new baby in the family– they are supposed to make and distribute muuchii to everyone they know! Those with children hang up on a long string in the house the number of muuchii for every year of age, 1 strand for each child. It is eaten as a lucky charm for the prayer of health and longevity.

**muuchii-biisa ムーチービーサ is a saying that it is “muuchii-cold” outside. This means it is so cold, one must eat muuchii (very filling and takes a long time to digest) in order to preserve their stamina!

Part 2 is continued in a new post: Muuchii ムーチー: Folklore and Recipe

 

Japanese Soba: 日本蕎麦

There are two types of “soba” here in Okinawa: Japanese mainland-style soba 蕎麦, made from buckwheat, and Okinawa soba, made from regular flour (and are also thicker noodles). Okinawa soba is typically served hot in a broth derived from pork, and typically topped with some sort of pork meats (there are various types which is for a later post). Also in Okinawa language, it is pronounced すば “suba” (not soba).

Mainland-style soba is what most foreigners are familiar with when they hear the term soba. A few places here in Okinawa do in fact serve up some pretty delicious homemade soba noodles; zaru soba or mori soba (or sometimes seiro soba) served chilled with a tsuyu つゆ dipping sauce (dashi and shoyu* base) or kake soba served warm in a tsuyu soup.

*shoyu 醤油: in Hawai’i everyone calls “soy sauce” by the Japanese name, shoyu.

One of my favorite places is near the university. It has a really nice name: 美波 “Minami,” which in this case translates to “beautiful (美) wave (波).” I suspect it may also be a pun, because “minami” can also be written as the kanji 南 which means “south,” and Okinawa is the “southern islands.” I usually order up their monthly special, which last month was a real treat– wild mountain vegetable tempura 山菜天ぷら蕎麦:

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kake soba かけ蕎麦, perfect for chilly days:

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Mushroom tempura soba きのこ天ぷら蕎麦:

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In the picture, on the top, what is in the little cup?  When you order cold soba, after you finish dipping and eating your noodles, the waitress will come by with a cup of そば湯 soba-yu, hot water that the noodles were cooked in! You add this to your leftover tsuyu to make a broth, and drink it. Delicious.

Here in Okinawa, we also have some variations on traditional mainland soba. For instance “sannin” soba. Sannin is the Okinawan word for shell ginger; in Japanese it is “gettou” 月桃. There is a famous little soba shop in Naha called Minosaku that makes this type of soba. I highly recommend visiting some day. The gentle fragrance of the shell ginger really went well. Next time, I hope to try their tumeric noodles (ウコン ukon in Japanese, うっちん ucchin in Okinawan).

Gettou soba 月桃蕎麦 served with a side tempura 天ぷら, look at that lovely green color:

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Addresses of soba places I have visited in Okinawa (and would recommend!), all noodles are made in house:

Minami 美波: 〒903-0125 沖縄県中頭郡西原町上原2-11-1

https://goo.gl/maps/Bug7JchEEQ12 After 10 years of business, the owner has closed this restaurant. I am still sad about it.


Kazokuan 日本蕎麦 家族庵: 157 Morikawa, Nishihara-chō, Nakagami-gun, Okinawa-ken 903-0128

https://goo.gl/maps/hFEv6fv5heG2

*This is a located in what looks like a family home in a back neighborhood. Lunch sets also come with soba maki (cut soba wrapped in nori like sushi!).


Minosaku 美濃作: 3 Chome-8-2 Kumoji, Naha-shi, Okinawa-ken 900-0015

https://goo.gl/maps/RCSKCHdXzYU2

*Okinawan twist on mainland soba


Matsudaira 手打ち日本蕎麦 松平 (separate blog post here)

https://goo.gl/maps/313rXc9qsPF2

*Speciality Izumo soba


Esu no Hana 江州の花 (separate post here)326-224 Taiho, Ogimi Village, Kunigami-gun, Okinawa-ken 905-1315

https://goo.gl/maps/Ng2bZbbzb7z

*Come here for local Okinawa-grown buckwheat soba and unlimited tempura!


Minatogawa 日本蕎麦南都川: 〒901-2134 Okinawa-ken, Urasoe-shi, Minatogawa, 1 Chome−5−11

https://goo.gl/maps/HSW3Lbw9ptq

Okinawa yakisoba: 沖縄風焼きそば

焼き: grilled

そば: noodles


Yakisoba 焼きそば is Japanese fried noodles. Okinawa yakisoba is a little different then regular mainland Japanese yakisoba, though. 「沖縄風」= Okinawa-style

Typically the thicker noodles are used (the same ones used for suba すば), and depending on the place it will be either salt style 「塩」 or sauce style 「ソース」. There is also a ketchup-based style ケチャップ (gross!!) which is luckily less common (I absolutely abhor ketchup).

Another difference is in the meats: usually spam スパム is a popular choice, although often it will be a mix of spam and the same kind of pork they use in regular Okinawan soba. I do not eat meats so I either give them to my husband or order without. It is commonly served with benishouga 紅生姜 (red pickled ginger), which I love. Sometimes they even have the benishouga on the table so I can add as much as I like.

It is definitely a junk food, and not so great for you, but with an ice cold Orion, it hits the spot! It is a popular choice with foreigners at the local shokudo 食堂 in Okinawa… after all what is not to like about fried noodles?

Mainland Japanese yakisoba is often topped with nori のり (dried seaweed flakes), mayonnaise マヨ, and/or katsuobushi 鰹節 (shaved bonito flakes) in addition to the pickled red ginger… but this is much less common in Okinawa-styles.

Photos of both sauce- and salt- yakisoba.

Bukubuku-cha: ぶくぶく茶

Bukubuku cha ぶくぶく茶 is a type of tea in Okinawa that is frothed. You use a bamboo whisk and froth the tea, creating foamy bubbles.

At this particular location, for the tea, I chose the traditional sanpin-cha さんぴん茶 (Jasmine tea) as the base, but there are several other flavors you can try at Kariisanfan in Shuri (I have tried ucchin/turmeric and hibiscus flavors previously as well). The tea for foaming is typically jasmine tea roasted with rice, making it a type of genmai-cha 玄米茶, one of the secrets to its foamy-ness. In addition, the minerals in the hard water found in the southern part of Okinawa help make it foam.

The set came with various little snacks, some traditional Ryukyu sweets (such as kunpen and chinsuko), some just general Japanese sweets. It is sort of the Okinawan equivalent to mainland Japan tea ceremony, as it was used during the Ryukyu era to entertain accredited Chinese envoys when they visited. This set also came with brown sugar and crushed island peanuts to sprinkle on top.

There are a few locations to experience a nice tea set, which usually comes with some traditional cookies as well. Some places you whisk/froth your own and others it is brought out to you all ready to go. There is even one place where they will dress you in kimono/yukata and have a small tea ceremony (again, another place located in Shuri area); I have not tried this place yet though it looks like a really nice experience.

The culture center on Kokusai-dori also offers it at certain times, so stop by there and check their schedule.

You can even buy a little (but expensive… 400yen for just 1 serving!) package at some omiyage shops on Kokusai-dori. It works! You need to make sure to use “hard water” such as mineral water. Read about how to make bukubuku-cha at home here; there is a “recipe” attached so you can skip buying the package and just collect the materials yourself, or if you purchase the package but do not read Japanese, you can follow my translated instructions. For a tea-lover, this is a must!

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Some other places offer it on the menu, but not very many come with  nice set like this. Some will even make it with a coffee base.

Uchinaa chaya Bukubukuうちなー茶屋ぶくぶく: Tsuboya yachimun (pottery) street, they make it for you.
〒902-0065沖縄県那覇市壺屋1丁目28-3
https://goo.gl/maps/pmdmvBXE4qt

Kariisanfan 嘉例山房: near Shuri-jo, you whisk it yourself for the full experience.
〒903-0824沖縄県那覇市首里池端町9
https://goo.gl/maps/zaYukFAuUWP2

Cafe Okinawa Shiki カフェ沖縄式: near Naminoue Shrine, serves bukubuku coffee.
沖縄県那覇市久米2-31-11
https://goo.gl/maps/fkvEi1AAqPS2

Nuchigafu 琉球料理ぬちがふう(命果報): Along Tsuboya district’s Yachimun Street.
https://goo.gl/maps/V6M63qWvVXw

During the Nanmin festival at Naminoue Shrine in May, you can try FREE bukubuku-cha made by some expert ladies!

Omiyage: お土産

Omiyage: souvenirs. Typically, this means food-related “souvenirs” of a recent journey, away from the family, coworkers, social club… seriously though, for every trip I take away from Okinawa, I have to budget quite a bit of yen for omiyage. That being said, when others return, I get to try a variety of little nibbles from all over. Yeah, omiyage is serious business. Do not return from a trip without some.

Especially after holidays, these show up in abundance. Social custom dictates that you eat whatever it is that your colleagues, friends, family, or whoever bought. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. Below are only some of the types of omiyage I have received– there are many kinds out there.

Sakura pie cookie. Shaped like a cherry blossom petal, flaky biscuit sprinkled with sakura sugar. WIN!

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Konbu (seaweed) candy from Hokkaido. Um, yeah. Not bad per se… but LOSE. Sometimes I wonder if my colleagues are just playing pranks on me (“hmm, what can we get the gaijin to eat next??”).

Matcha and chocolate mini cakes. OISHII~~~! WIN!

Almond chocolate sandwich cookie and matcha/azuki bean biscuit. WIN.

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White bean paste and matcha bean paste cakes. WIN.

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Sable cookie shaped like Dove… meh. Not a win, but not a lose.

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Famous Amaou Strawberry roll. WIN!

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Hokkaido rare cheese: win.

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Awa cookie: not a win, not a loss. It is pretty though.

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Buttery crispy sandwich cookie. Win.

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Not pictured: Ebi (shrimp) “cracker” and Mentaiko (fish roe) “cracker” (Japanese: senbei せんべい). I get more of these type of senbei than I care for; I am not really a fan of these fishy crackers, but they are cheap so I think I lot of people buy these to bring back.

Obviously there are many, many more not shown… I only recently started snapping a picture so I could remember some of my favorites (and least favorites). All of these were picked out by Japanese and Okinawan friends/colleagues.

Oh, and if you every need to bring back omiyage from Tokyo, I suggest picking up the famous “Tokyo Banana” (sold in the airport!). Honestly, I think they are gross, but Japanese people love them! I cannot explain it. Out of all the omiyage I have brought back to my lab colleagues, those are gone in seconds. Chocolates of almost any variety are almost universally disliked or at best vaguely tolerated (okay, I also work with ALL males, I am sure this is different if you have females). Otherwise, omiyage selection is still a bit of a mystery to me, no matter how often I buy it.

If you want to see what sort of omiyage to pick up while in Okinawa, visit this next post: Okinawa Omiyage: お土産.

Shima-doufu: 島豆腐

豆腐 toufu: tofu

島 shima: island

島豆腐 shima-doufu: island tofu


Island tofu: Tofu in Okinawa is made differently than on mainland Japan. The best part is fresh tofu is delivered several times a day to grocery stores and markets all over island, still warm from the maker. It is the most amazing taste, and nothing like the little plastic packaged containers found in regular grocery stores. You can buy different types: yushi-doufu ゆし豆腐, firm tofu (called shima-doufu), and age-doufu 揚げ豆腐 (fried tofu) easily. One thing to remember is that it is delivered fresh multiple times a day– usually we only buy it the day we are going to make it, for the best taste. If you have some left over, put it in a lidded container filled with water; replace the water daily, but be sure to consume within a few days since it doesn’t contain preservatives.

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An example of “firm” island tofu

We realized one day in the far future, we will probably return to Hawai’i and will no longer have this option. So, we decided we must learn how to make our own. I will share some secrets to the process in the link below: the link explains the process and show step-by-step picture instructions:

Tofu making explained

Here are the results from the fruits of our labor from AiAi Farm in Nakijin, on the Motobu peninsula of Okinawa.

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If you read the linked imgur island, it explains the process. Nigari にがり is often used in the commercial and home process of tofu-making for coagulation to occur. That being said, it is actually traditional to use ocean water from the southern part of the island as it contains the proper minerals including MgCl2 for coagulation. And yes, I have tried both ways… collecting ocean water from not too far from my house, boiling it and using it in the process, it works great! But if you don’t live in southern Okinawa… well, nigari is just as good an option! It is very easy to find in the local grocery stores. Also at home, we modified a sushi-press box that I found cheap in one of the stores, though you can buy some plastic or metal ones out and about locally.

 

Rakkyou: らっきょう

The best part of spring is riding my bicycle around the neighborhood, scouring the farm boxes for fresh vegetables. Rakkyou are currently in season here in Okinawa.  They are kinda like shallots… but their flavor is wonderful as pickles or as tempura.

Recently, we had “izakaya” night at home. Izakaya 居酒屋 means Japanese style bar/drinking place.  I was gifted an expensive seishuu 清酒 from Niigata prefecture after a research meeting with a company president. That is another topic for later. Anyway, we made rakkyou tempura which really goes well with alcohol! Refreshing.

 

Mozuku: もずく

Mozuku is a type of Okinawan seaweed. It is kinda slimy, but the taste is mostly salty and not too ocean-y.

Recently, the once-a-month farmer’s market in my village had free mozuku, as much as you could stuff into a plastic bag. At first, we felt a bit timid… neither my husband nor I have actually prepared mozuku ourselves.  We have eaten it several times as part of a teishoku (set meal) in Okinawan restaurants, but it is not something that I really go out and buy. But who can turn down free? So my husband got a baggie and got in with the ojiisans and children to fill up.

I think the best way to prepare mozuku is to fry it in tempura or add it to okonomiyaki (the Okinawan version is hirayachi: ヒラヤーチー). It is also possible to prepare it as mozuku-su, which is just prepared with vinegar.

Mozuku-no-hi もずくの日 (mozuku day) is the 3rd Sunday in April.

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