Slowlife Cafe: スローライフカフェ

Slowlife Cafe is a beach-themed cafe located in Ginowan. I pulled up, and parking seemed a bit… well, anyway I pulled up the curb where some other cars were parked, so I think it was okay. The cafe is on the 2nd floor, so it has a pretty nice view if you go out to the terrace.

Anyway, the interior was very nicely decorated and comfortable, sort of “beach chic” with natural wood and ocean colors. The menu was only in Japanese, but not too complicated as there are only 4 items on the menu for lunch: plate of the day, pasta of the day, don (rice bowl) of the day, and sandwich of the day. Each come with soup, salad, and drink, all for 1000yen; if you add the cake of the day, it is an additional 150yen.

They didn’t have all of the -of-the-days written out anywhere like most places, instead the server listed them off. Though it seemed he was not confident that I would understand much because I was a foreigner, he said them all fairly quickly and without much details. I didn’t bother to correct him on that or ask more details, as I pretty much knew I would get the pasta anyway and I added on the cake since it was cheesecake. Not that he was rude or anything, quite the opposite, very friendly… just a lot of times as an obvious 外国人 people tend to assume you have zero grasp of the Japanese language. Everything was pretty good; not superb, but for the price I thought it was pretty decent. I enjoyed eating in the relaxed atmosphere. It definitely seemed like a trendy but not expensive place where young 20somethings could eat, drink, and enjoy life slowly not too far from Tropical Beach in Ginowan.


address: https://goo.gl/maps/bNqna9tNxcD2

Ryukyu Onsen Senaga-jima Hotel

South of the airport is the small island of Senaga-jima which is connected the main island by bridge. A very luxurious hotel with an onsen, Ryujin no Yu 龍神の湯 (translation: dragon-king bath; Ryujin is the dragon god believed to lived under the sea near Okinawa), is situated there. The rooms to stay overnight are very expensive (so I have never stayed there), but luckily the onsen and spa is open to the public. The entrance fee for the onsen is also reasonable (middle school and older, weekdays: 1,330円, weekends and holidays: 1,540円, elementary school: 720円, preschool and under free). There is even a foot hot spring for free next to the resort hotel, if you just want to relax your feet for a bit.

Like other onsen in Okinawa, you go to the spa desk to check-in and receive your towels and spa clothes. The onsen has indoor baths as well as some very lovely outdoor baths. I didn’t spend a lot of time in the indoor baths or sauna; mostly I cleaned myself at the shower stations and went almost directly to outside. Outside you have some different choices; there are a few individual rotenburo 露天風呂 and then some large baths (1 is a standing bath, so you stand up in it but it is quite comfortable) that overlook the ocean. I enjoyed all of these and the view was really quite nice, it made it all the more relaxing. The water is a bit salty– it is a unique seaside hot spring for sure! If you stay overnight, half of the hotel rooms even have private outdoor baths…!

The spa treatments offered here are quite nice for some pampering. When I went for my birthday, I got a body scrub, a seaweed-mud wrap, some sort of facial, and a massage… it was not cheap, but it was a birthday present from my husband. I felt amazing afterwards… maybe one day I can return.

As far as food, I have only eaten at the Mediterranean-inspired restaurant inside the resort, which was so-so. Some people really like it, and it was okay, but I probably recommend just going over to Umikaji Terrace うみかじテラス (the small shopping/cafe area on the island) and checking out the food there. There are several options from happy pancakes to food you can eat while sitting in hammocks, each of them with just as nice a view as the resort.

 


address: https://goo.gl/maps/9fsrcNESWES2

website: https://www.hotelwbf.com/senaga/

Adji-jima, “Hideout Island”

アーヂ島 adji-jima (or aadji-jima) in a very tiny island located off the Nanjo coast of Okinawa main island. The name means “hideout.”

As you drive down towards it, you come to a tori gate 鳥居 utility pole… interesting. You can park in an area off to the side of the driving path (I call it a path, because it is really not much of a road). There is a concrete bridge connecting Adji-jima to land. You can walk across but…

It is gated off at the entrance to the island. It is actually a private property, possibly owned by a resort from the 80s and is said to have been a training facility for the resort, but now… no one seems to be sure of ownership from what I have read. It seems well-kept enough, so I don’t think it is abandoned. It is a bit mysterious.

Since you cannot enter, you can walk (at low tide) or wade (during high tide) circling small “island”. It is surrounded by barbed wire fence on the land. There is even a marker for 1983 when it the facilities were made. You can see some various structures and such too. There even seem to be some sort of dock for a boat, but the water must be too shallow for this to be used. It is a bit strange overall. Perhaps the strangest is that there is a sign on the main road for this hideout island even though you cannot enter and it is privately owned. It is close to Hyakuna Beach 百名ビーチ though, so you could just walk over from here and enjoy some beach time.


address: https://goo.gl/maps/7jETrXP6Gaw

 

Hyakuna Beach and Nanjo Cultural Properties

Nanjo 南城 meaning “southern castle” is unsurprisingly located in the southern area of the island. In Nanjo, there are many cultural and historical properties, most famously, perhaps, the Seifa Utaki 斎場御嶽 (also spelled Sefa Utaki).

**utaki 御嶽 is a Ryukyuan term for “sacred place,” oftentimes a water spring, mountain, woods, cave, etc.

The area I went to today qualifies as another “power spot” and it is quite close to Seifa Utaki. It is another spot related to the goddess Amamikiyo.

ヤハラヅカサ Yaharazukasa is the name of the monument submerged at full tide, and is totally revealed at low tide. It is located within the Hyakuna beach 百名ビーチarea.

The meaning is broken down into ヤハラ yahara, which can be soft, healed, gentle (柔らかい yawarakai, 癒されるiyasareru, 優しい yasashii in Japanese). The second part ヅカサ zukasa means mound, 塚 zuka in Japanese. So the meaning is something like a mound to receive gentle healing.

Amamikiyo touched down at yaharazukasa through Hamagaa utaki 浜川御嶽 (utaki means sacred spot) after Kudaka-jima; 浜川 Hamagaa would be normally be pronounced Hamagawa in Japanese (beach + river). Hamagaa utaki is a small “shrine” area with a spring (gaa 川, river/spring in Okinawan language) running through the Ryukyuan limestone cliffs. It was happily burbling as I explored the area. This utaki area was also supposedly a location where the goddess would rest and heal. She came from the sea kingdom Nirai-kanai, the home of the gods and created the Ryukyu Islands.

The Hyakuna beach is free; same with parking if you go all the way down to the end of the drive. If not, you can also pay for parking in a lot about halfway to monument area, more by the beach sports access area.

I did not check the tides since I was just wandering about so, alas, I ended up here at nearly high tide. Sometime I shall go down just for low tide to see the monument in its fullest.

Later we went to the parking and cafe area for Seifa Utaki to enjoy some cool treats at the 2nd floor cafe. I had a mango float and my husband had shikwasa (Okinawan lime citrus) kakigouri (shave ice). The view was quite beautiful and we chose to sit outside and enjoy.


address for Hyakuna Beach: https://goo.gl/maps/TJeUAGAzutK2
*When you park at the end of the road, you can see a sign pointing into the wooded area. That is where Hamagaa utaki is. From the utaki, there is a rock step path down to the beach directly in front of the yaharazakasa monument. There are some well-worn signage with both English and Japanese information.

Seifa Kitchen cafe せーふぁキッチン: https://goo.gl/maps/MhHZRJhzjMv

Apo-gama: アポガマ, a.k.a. “Mermaid’s Grotto”

First off, the name of this place is Apogama, not Mermaid’s Grotto… some cute nickname given to it by presumably an American who does not know any Japanese or Okinawan language. To be honest, I feel like probably very few foreigners know it by its’ Okinawan name “Apogama”; I only ever hear them call it “Mermaid’s Grotto” as if this is the official name… which it isn’t. Funny enough, the name Apogama actually comes from the the English word “appointment,” shortened to “apo” アポ, and the Okinawan word “gama” ガマ meaning “cave.”

アポイント appointo: appointment => apo アポ

ガマ (洞穴) gama: cave

This was known to be a secret spot for lovers to meet, hence the name “appointment.” I guess I find it kind of funny that a location already using an English name (well, Japanglish, really if I am being honest) was given some different name in English. While the name “Mermaid’s Grotto” sounds cute and whatnot, it is some made up name by Americans in recent years and not an official name. I am not sure many Japanese/Okinawan people would even know that this place was nicknamed Mermaid’s Grotto by foreigners… and just as I said before, probably most foreigners would not recognize it by its Okinawan name. I am sure there is some crossover of folks who know it by both names (and probably feel a tad confused by it, wondering if it is 2 separate places or in fact the same place like I did initially), but there seem to be a lot who don’t know the other side of it.

Anyway, located in Onna (North), this is another beautiful spot to check out in Okinawa, as well as a very popular for diving. It is even designated as a special cultural property or sightseeing or something like this of the town of Onna! However there is some serious undertow here, and there is even a sign in English cautioning against this, so swimming is NOT recommended. It is a nice place to explore the tide pools (with water shoes, felt boots for diving/snorkeling). Just use caution.

(pictures coming soon).


address: https://goo.gl/maps/7n3bjMXECi22

EM Wellness Resort: Costa Vista and Spa Corazon

Since onsen in Okinawa is a popular topic, I have decided to make some individual posts for each onsen. Check this post for some general information on Okinawa onsen: Okinawa Onsen (Hot Springs): 温泉


In Okinawa city, there is a wellness resort with an onsen: the Costa Vista resort and Spa Corazon. I have visited her a few times before, but this time I went for special spa treatments for my birthday. My husband made reservations in advance for me; this is important since they fill up fast, especially on weekends and holidays. If you are only going for the onsen, then you do not need reservations.

As for the onsen, no tattoo are allowed. However, recently, they have a sign stating that if you cover your tattoo with a skin “patch” (or called seal, sticker, tape), then you may now enter the onsen. They sell these patches at the reception desk for 200yen, but if you go over to DonQ you can find them for a better value. This is perfect if you only have some small tattoo and would like to try an onsen in Okinawa.

I was signed up for the anti-aging package (yeah, I am not that old, really, but gotta take care of yourself). I showed up early to use the onsen prior to my spa pampering. When I arrived, I stowed my shoes in the little locker, handed the clerk at the counter the key, and let them know I had a spa reservation for later. They handed me towels (1 big, 1 small), spa clothes (pajamas, really, called samue 作務衣), and a locker key for inside the onsen. They also had some free amenities at the counter if you needed any.

There are different areas to this wellness resort– reflexology area, spa treatment area, relaxation area, bedrock bath, a.k.a. ganbanyoku 岩盤浴 (separate entrance ticket required!), and the onsen itself. I went inside the ladies’ onsen area and followed the standard procedure described in my previous post. I enjoyed the onsen for a bit, dipping in both hot and cold pools, as well as the jetted tubs. This onsen does not have an outdoor bath, but it does have a mist sauna and a dry sauna, as well as some sort of “silky” bath. There are views out to the ocean and towards the Aeon Rycom Mall. Once it was time, I got out and changed into my spa clothes.

There are 2 treatment areas; one is inside the onsen (a little less fancy) and one is in a separate area (much more fancy). I was booked for the fancy package. When I went to the desk, I was immediately given tea and told to choose from a basket of oils (I went with lemongrass). From here I was shuffled into a private room and given 紙パンツ kami-pantsu (paper “shorts”) to change into. I had an EM salt scrub, then a fancy smelling private bath, a full body massage, and a facial. It was all very relaxing, and my skin felt fantastic. Plus all the stress melted away and I felt completely refreshed.

The big draw to the onsen resort is the EM products. I guess it is kinda like organic. Anyway, when my spa treatments were over, I was given more tea and some snacks, as well as a little bag with some of the products used (lemongrass oil, bath salts, face pack, and some face cream).

Another bonus to this onsen resort is the EM healthy lunch viking (buffet). It is fantastic and reasonably priced. I highly recommend trying it out, the food is quite delicious. There are also some EM products shops scattered within the wellness resort, in case you want to pick up some beauty products or produce, eggs, or other EM goods. Overall, this is a great place for trying an onsen, spa treatments, and a healthy lunch.

entrance fees to onsen: 13 years and older: 1,500円, 4-12 years: 1,000円, 3 and under free.

the bedrock bath is an additional fee of 500円.

(as photos are prohibited inside the onsen and treatment areas, this is all have to show)

 

 


address: https://goo.gl/maps/W49DuFRNzck

webpage with more info on packages and reservations: http://www.costavista.jp/

Nikka Pokka, Avocado House (Cafe)

Nikka Pokka is a cafe in Urasoe also known as “Avocado House.” This is because it features many dishes with avocado– yum!

It is kinda of a weird place to be honest. At night, it is actually some sort of club. I don’t really know, but it is really clean and doesn’t have a weird club vibe or anything. It is really set up just like a typical Japanese ladies’ cafe. I use the word “ladies’ cafe” for small, cute, clean places where the majority of the clientele are adult ladies (20’s to 50’s usually).

Anyway, there are a few parking spaces outside so it is not to difficult to get in and out of. The menu is only in Japanese, so come prepared.

The lunch sets come with soup, salad, puchi dessert (small size dessert), and drink bar (which only has tea and coffee, fine for me but other people may find this weird). Many lunch entrees include avocado in some way, but there are some pastas and such without avocado. I usually get what is called the “avocado plate,” which comes with an avocado cream pasta and 2 half sandwiches (one is avocado cream cheese and the other is potato salad). It is pretty good. It may not be super fancy, but it is only 1000yen and fills you up. I always enjoy it here, so if you are living in Okinawa and like avocados, you should really try it out sometime.


address: https://goo.gl/maps/UUyGoe8jaJL2

Things to know when planning a vacation to Okinawa

Some of the FAQs about visiting Okinawa. This is not a complete guide, but hopefully can give you an idea of how to plan your visit. I try to hit the main points to consider when visiting.


Best and worst times to visit: 

**Beaches are closed from around November to April/May. Usually it is too cold to swim during this time anyway.

February is cold, windy, and generally miserable– likely one of the worst times to visit. January and March are also chilly and not suitable for the beach, if you are looking for a beach vacation (which, I think most people coming to Okinawa are expecting).

April through early May is generally pleasant, not too hot but not too cold (usually). The water temperature however is cold as it has not warmed up yet. Some people may not mind the chilly water, but I would advise having some sort of rash guards for swimming/snorkeling during this time.

Late May-mid-June is typically the rainy season (some variation year to year). There can be a lot of rain during this time and you may not get lucky enough to have much outdoor time. So be advised, while the weather is occasionally clear, there are bouts of heavy rainfall which will keep you indoors during this time.

Late June (right after rainy season ends) and July can be hot, but usually bearable. However typhoon season begins in June and ends in October time frame. Again, it changes year to year; some years there are nearly no typhoons, other years there are several. It is a bit of a gamble, but often late June and July do not see typhoons, so you are usually safe to choose this time.

August is very hot and humid. But lots of great festivals during this time, so keep all this in mind. The kids are off of school, too, for summer vacation, so prices will skyrocket and some places may sell out during this time. If you want to go to an outer island via ferry you MUST get reservations during August, even during week days.

September is still hot and humid, plus it is still typhoon season. Kids are usually back in school though, so the tourist scene calms down a bit. October can be pleasant but sometimes moving into cooler weather (especially in the evening). This being said, the water temperature is usually still decent at this time of year since it has not cooled off all the way yet; you probably don’t need rash guards, though you may want to wear them anyway if going to a beach without nets, or snorkeling somewhere near coral or possibly jellyfish, etc. But once you get out of the water, the air temperature in October can be pretty chilly, so you will want to get out of those wet clothes quickly. It’s not really the best beach weather, but can be tolerable, depending on your tolerance to cold.

November and December can be hit or miss; sometimes pleasant and other times cold. Typically a little too chilly to swim comfortable, plus most if not all (manned) beaches are closed during this time. You can find some quiet unmanned beaches and swim if the weather just happens to cooperate. The water temps are usually still warm enough from the summer (takes awhile to cool down), but the air temp can be chilly.

Check out this page for links to special events and holidays in Okinawa: Calendar


Where to stay:

This is a difficult question to answer… there are many places depending on what you want to do. The southern near Naha is prime location for several tourist activities, but there are only a few beaches compared with other areas. Naha is also a concrete jungle, and not the romantic island image you see on the tourist postcards of Okinawa; to be honest I don’t particularly recommend staying here. If you stay in the south, perhaps try closer to the Itoman area. The central area near American Village has shopping and a few beaches, but again it is not the perfect postcard picture. It is however convenient to many areas around the island, so it makes it an okay place to stay. In the North near the Onna resorts it is a little prettier, a bit more scenery, more beaches, and a little less city. There are still plenty of tourist opportunities up here (the aquarium, some parks, etc), so this area is one of the nicer places to stay during your vacation. Just keep in mind it is a decent drive down to the southern part of the island where there are a lot of tourist activities. There are some other small locations not close to anything, nor particularly fancy… it depends on what sort of vacation you are looking for, really.

If you really want the Okinawa that the pictures promise you I recommend going to an outer island: any of the Keramas, Miyako-jima, or Ishigaki-jima. These places are very beautiful and have the best beaches + snorkeling/diving.

The types of accommodations vary like anywhere else: hostels, guesthouses, hotels, resorts, and even a few “ryokan” type establishments. AirBnb is also an option to check out, though I don’t feel like it is very popular here so your choices may be limited. It just depends on the type of experience you are looking for (and your budget!).


How to get around: 

I highly recommend renting a car or scooter. The monorail only takes you from the Naha airport to Shuri. The public bus runs all over island, but is not always on time, or convenient, and is actually pretty expensive. Taxis, while convenient, are very expensive. If you really don’t want to rent a car, then look into joining some bus tours to hit up the main attractions you would like to see.

I have a guide on getting to the outer islands here: Okinawa: Outer Islands & How to reach them. Most of them are walkable, but some you may want to rent a bicycle, scooter, or car. If you stay overnight, many accommodations will pick you up at the ferry port.


For now I will end here, and perhaps add more later. Questions about food/drink you can look through the blog for some recommendations and types of foods you may see here. Same with on “what to see”; I list a few things here on my blog, but there are many that I haven’t written posts for. Have questions? Leave a comment or send me a message from the contact page.

Songs Day: うたの日

うたの日 uta-no-hi: Songs Day

Every year in Okinawa in late June is Uta no hi “Songs Day” concert, featuring the famous local band BEGIN, as well as other popular local bands. And every year, my halau (hula group) performs with them!

Tickets are purchased online or at convenience stores. It is easy enough I think. But I am lucky, I do not need to buy tickets since I perform with the halau.

I cannot comment as to the full experience, since for a major portion of the day I am getting ready, prepping, etc. But it is a really nice event, and I got to enjoy it once the sun was setting and our part of the performance was over. Everyone around me was having such a good time, it was easy to get into the party spirit of things. People were dancing, drinking, and just really enjoying the evening. There were some new songs, some old songs, a little of everything; though most were Japanese or Okinawan songs, so I only recognized some of them. I really like the band BEGIN and I feel that most of their songs embody the Okinawan spirit (kinda like aloha spirit). Overall, it was a really great experience, and as always I felt a little more bonded to the Okinawan people afterwards.

I also bought a souvenir tenugui (towel)– it is so cute, though I am sure I didn’t need another one. There is no photography in the event (you can have your phones but you are not supposed to take pictures of the performances since they air them on TV at a later date). It didn’t seem very strictly enforced, probably only if you were close up to the main stage.

 

 

Mother Leaf Shave Ice

かき氷 kakigouri: shave ice. Or snow cone, for those of you from other places.

Anyway, rainy season has ended and summer time is upon us in Okinawa. Today was pretty darn hot, so I decided to make a short trip to the central portion of the island north of where I live. My main goal was to try a different shave ice shop: Mother Leaf.

Mother Leaf is pretty popular, so this is not necessarily a “hidden gem” (it even has English on the menu). But it is tasty and so refreshing on days like today. Apparently several other people had the same idea as me. Even though I say it was busy, there was a decent amount of parking and the line goes pretty quick; also the inside had plenty of seating. I had no issues on a hot Sunday afternoon, so I can recommend stopping by even at the busiest of time since this shop can clearly handle it.

I ordered the shirokuma-mango 白くまマンゴー at a whopping 650 yen; everything else was actually much cheaper and reasonably priced, but I really wanted the mango. It is a mango and condensed milk kakigouri. Anyway, it was really huge and quite good, but next time I would stick with a cheaper item.


address: https://goo.gl/maps/oEP4fsPS4gD2

Kurashiki Dam: 倉敷ダム

It was very hot and humid today in Okinawa; summer has begun. The sounds of cicadas are everywhere. I feel like eating shave ice and watermelon.

Kurashiki dam in Uruma has a park next to it– it is perfect for cooling off in summer time. I went to the dam today, and it was busy with families and kids. Luckily there is a lot of parking. Some kids were cooling off in the water, while others were gathering bugs, tadpoles, or other small creatures. Many adults set up camping tents to hideout in while the kids played. Just looking at the dam made you feel like summer was here. It seemed so nostalgic, seeing all these kids play in the water and catching wildlife, not on phones or other electronic devices.

I also cooled off my feet wading in the water, it was so refreshing. I definitely recommend visiting here on a hot summer day.


address: https://goo.gl/maps/yKYtoGk1ieH2

Kame no ko senbei: 亀の甲せんべい

亀の甲せんべい kame no ko senbei: tortoise shell senbei (rice cracker)

Sometimes it is abbreviated to かめせん kamesen.


Kamenoko senbei is shaped like  tortoise shell. It is an old-fashioned Okinawa snack, but still popular. It is salty and fried crackers. It is cheap to buy in stores.

There are a few different brands of kamenoko senbei, one is Tamaki snack company. Recently I tried the ume (plum) flavor– it was so good and addictive. It is called 梅小亀 ume kogame (plum small tortoise).

I heard that some people used to eat it with chocolate sauce as a treat for children.

It is easy to find this type of senbei in all the grocery stores.

Otsumami: おつまみ

Otsumami おつまみ: snacks, usually to go with drinking alcohol or soft drinks.

You will see these types of snacks many places, usually by the alcohol section of the grocery or convenience store.

It comes from the word tsumamu つまむ, which means “to pinch” but can also mean “to pick up with fingers or chopsticks.”

It really is not anything specific, just sort anything easy to eat while drinking (beer, alcohol, or even just soft drinks) can be considered otsumami. You could include any kinds of appetizers, finger foods, light snacks, and tapas as “otsumami.” I usually think of things like arare or senbei, but many other things like cheeses, dried squid, edamame, tsukemono, and all manner of appetizers are described by the word “otsumami.”

Often on the airplane, I am given a small bag labelled otsumami, usually some sort of arare, dried peas, or kaki-no-tane. So I don’t always associate otsumami with drinking alcohol necessarily, rather I think of it as a salty snack food.

In Okinawa, a popular otsumami is mimigaa ミミガー (dried and shredded pig ears); to be honest it does not look creepily like pig ears, so if you don’t read Japanese or are unfamiliar with Okinawan words, you probably would not realize exactly what you are eating. I like an otsumami made by Orion labelled “beer nuts”: ビアナッツ. They even sell it as a small omiyage. When you are in Okinawa, you should try some of these Okinawan otsumami.


   

 

Okinawa War Memorial Day: 慰霊の日

慰霊の日 irei-no-hi: Okinawa War Memorial Day.

Irei-no-hi is on June 23rd. This is a prefectural holiday here in Okinawa, so schools and government offices close. It is a day to remember and pray for those Okinawans whose lives were sacrificed during the Battle of Okinawa and WWII, especially since the majority of them were civilians, not soldiers, and so much of the island was destroyed by the ravages of battle.

Many museums and art galleries have special displays, usually photography, during this time. The Peace Park in Itoman has a special remembrance ceremony, light-up, and lantern floating with messages of peace on this day. The news programs all dedicate a lot of time to memorials this day.

If you want to visit the Itoman Peace Memorial Park during this time, you will need to take a shuttle, as parking is limited. It is a more somber event, but worthwhile nonetheless.

Moon Beach Luau: ムーンビーチルアウ

It’s almost that time of year again… time for the annual Hotel Moon Beach resort Hawaiian luau.

“Luau” is spelled in katakana as ルアウ.

This is a huge event, with halau from all over Okinawa coming to perform on stage to live music at the Hotel Moon Beach resort in Onna-son. It is over 2 days, the first Saturday and Sunday in July. Often times, this coincides with 4th of July weekend for Americans.

Last year the military people cancelled all the fireworks at their bases, so Moon Beach was the ONLY place for Americans looking for a fireworks show on the holiday weekend. It usually is not a long show, maybe about ~10-15 minutes, but better than nothing I suppose!

My halau participates every year on one of the days. It is a busy time, but a lot of fun. I don’t have time to do any of the activities like catching fish with nets the traditional way or lei-making or ukulele experience though since we are busy preparing all day. I think the best part of the luau day is the sunset/evening hula on the beach, it is so gorgeous. Well, and my group always performs on the evening stage, so maybe I am biased. Most guests bring blankets and snacks (and likely beers), just enjoying the music and dancing with the ocean as a backdrop.

All the dancers are dressed up in beautiful costumes with flowers and leis, it feels so exciting. Often time we are asked for pictures. An Australian wanted pictures with some of my stunningly beautiful hula friends, but they do not speak English and he didn’t speak Japanese. Lucky for him I was there, he was so surprised to see me and hear me speak English I think. After that, I think my value increased in the group as someone who could communicate with the foreign tourists (lol).

Anyway, if you are in Okinawa the first weekend of July and want some Hawaiian vibes, be sure to check out this free event at Moon Beach resort.

(pictures coming soon).


https://goo.gl/maps/FtZN5H7TRdQ2

Power Spots in Okinawa

パワースポット power spot: a “spiritual” spot, a place to refresh your mind, soul, and body. Many people believe that coming to these spots can sort of gain a spiritual power or energy within you. Some people also visiting these spots will imbue you with luck. There are many in Japan, especially in shrine or temple areas. So of course, in Okinawa we have quite a few. There are many small ones hidden around the island, but here are some of the more well-known places where you can power up. Just remember, these sites are considered sacred, so please treat with respect if you visit them.

Many of these power spots are also “utaki” 御嶽, a Ryukyuan term for “sacred place,” oftentimes a water spring, mountain, woods, cave, etc.

SOUTH

  • Seifa Utaki 斎場御嶽: This is the location that the goddess Amamikiyo appeared after creating it. https://goo.gl/maps/sf1sEBoD7Vy
  • Island of the Gods, Kudaka-jima 久高島: A short ferry ride away, this is considered a holy place and is where the goddess Amamikiyo first created the Ryukyu Kingdom. Take the ferry from Azama Sun-sun Beach. https://goo.gl/maps/mictMYUN5U32
  • Gangala Valley ガンガラーの谷: limestone cave. https://goo.gl/maps/Goxb4RNErUk
  • Shuri-jo 首里城: there are many utaki and other power spots concentrated within the grounds of Shuri-jo (castle) park. https://goo.gl/maps/qit4op7Edkn
  • Shuri, Kincho stone pavement area, Big Akagi (acacia) tree 首里金城町の大アカギ: This tree survived the Battle of Okinawa, and is considered to be full of energy, a tree that a god descended from during the Ryukyu Kingdom era. https://goo.gl/maps/TsAKvi3J2GM2

CENTRAL

NORTH

  • Dai Sekirinzan Park 大石林山: far up north in Yanbaru. Very popular spiritual power spot. https://goo.gl/maps/Y4DVwhYcats
  • Kouri-jima 古宇利島, island of love: especially the “heart rocks,” connected by bridge. https://goo.gl/maps/8mwFDRjuN232
  • Mount Gusuku 城山 (also called Tatchuu タッチュー in Kunigami area Okinawan language): Ie-jima 伊江島, a short ferry ride. Take the ferry from Motobu Port.  https://goo.gl/maps/2sb2mcz43952
  • Warii-banta ワリーバンタ: also called Bise no Warumi 備瀬のワルミ in Bise 備瀬 near the Aquarium. Unfortunately this place has been bought up by a private buyer, and it is unclear whether it will remain open to the public as of right now it is fenced off.  https://goo.gl/maps/MwACDShbMvy
  • Taataki ター滝 (English names: Taa waterfall, Tataki Falls): I hesitate to list this one, as the trek to get there can be a bit treacherous, and there have been accidents in the past. At another waterfalls trekking location (Aha Tanagaa-gumui 安波のタナガーグムイ), there was recently the death of a young military member. So please use caution if you decide to try to get here, and especially do not go during/after heavy rain– so many people have had to been rescued at these locations because they do not realize how quickly the water level rises. It might even be possible closed off for the time being, as the town/prefecture is concerned for public safety in these areas.  https://goo.gl/maps/xqfMpcENehK2
  • Shiokawa (salt river): An unusual water source, a salty spring. It is uncertain the mechanism that allows this water source to be salty. I heard there are only 2 places in the world like this, the other one being in Puerto Rico. https://goo.gl/maps/Ltk5Y8VYN1T2

Now, I may not particularly subscribe to the concept of “power spots,” but there is no doubt a refreshing energy you gain simply by visiting the beautiful outdoors in Okinawa. Many of these places have beautiful views with plentiful greenery, located outside the concrete jungle of the main island. Why not try visiting some of these spots while in Okinawa and see for yourself if they rejuvenate you. Or perhaps you will find a “power spot” of your not on this list.


*I will update with some of the “smaller” lesser known power spots soon.

As a side note, there are also “haunted spots,” sort of the opposite of “power spots,” known as 心霊スポット shinrei supotto (“ghost/spirit spots”)… perhaps I will make a list of some of these in Okinawa some time.

Recommended: Ryukyu Confectionery Shops

I realize most foreigners are more interested in strange KitKat flavors than traditional confections, but for those who would like a true flavor of the Ryukyu Kingdom (you know, besides westernized beniimo tarts), here are some must-try places.

Ryukyu sweets are quite different from Japanese sweets, and are probably more similar to Chinese sweets since they were mostly developed to entertain the Chinese envoys when they visited the Ryukyu Royal Court. Most of these traditional confectionaries are centered around Shuri and Naha.

  1. Jahana Kippan: The Jahana family has been creating 2 types of traditional sweets for a long time; tougatsuke and kippan. These are exquisite and I cannot recommend them enough.
  2. Arakaki Kami, Arakaki Honpo and Arakaki Honke: these 3 shops are all descendants of the same ancestor, hence their similarities. But they are all 3 slightly different, so it is worth a look to check them out. They carry chiinsukou and chiirunkou, and I know Honke carries hanaborou, senjukou, and tauchiichau (described in a previous post here).
  3. Matsuhara Shop, located inside Makishi Market: You can try a lot of interesting things here at this shop, from sata andagi to muuchii, and even things like machikaji and kunpen. The sata andagi comes in many flavors, like brown sugar, beniimo, and more.
  4. Zaha Confection Shop: I have made several small purchases here. It is a bit of an odd mix of western style alongside some traditional Ryukyu items.

And of course, no trip to Okinawa would be complete without trying bukubuku-cha, tea of the Ryukyu royal court. Most places serve the tea with small traditional Ryukyu accompaniments, such as chinsukou, kunpen, kuzu mochi, etc.

Some of the more common confections such as chinsukou can be purchased in regular omiyage shops, airport stores, and grocery stores– but for something special (and possibly quite unique) I recommend you check out some of the places listed above.


address:

  1. Jahana Kippan: https://goo.gl/maps/vhUKgGsApJu
  2. Arakaki Honke: https://goo.gl/maps/kcFvzXA6BvQ2
  3. Arakaki Honpo (multiple locations, this is one is on Kokusai-dori): https://goo.gl/maps/hcwT4fMGPrw
  4. Arakaki Kami: https://goo.gl/maps/BgVJvnYJj3S2
  5. Matsuhara: https://goo.gl/maps/iJ91rdQeDm32
  6. Zaha: https://goo.gl/maps/6chzqKoLBiE2

Korean Bingsu in Okinawa

So typically in Japan, there is kaki-gouri かき氷, “shave ice.” And there is tons of that here in Okinawa, especially Okinawa “zenzai”.

But today I went to a new place that opened up, a Korean dessert cafe called Yuki-no-Sonata 雪のソナタ in Naha. And also the only Korean dessert cafe I have ever found in Okinawa… so I was anxious to try it. They serve bingsu (in Japanese katakana it is written as ビンス), which is a fluffy elaborate snow ice that only Koreans could have come up with~~ now maybe you can see why I am excited to try this place.

The cafe itself was clean and nice, with K-pop tunes playing. The menu is sparse, only 4 choices. Since I dragged my husband here, we ended up ordering the Oreo flavor bingsu (instead of mango) as a compromise; it came stacked with Oreo cookie, brownie bites, and chocolate sauce overtop the fluffy snow ice. It was a hefty price, 900yen– though students (under 20 years of age) get a 30% discount! Jealous. This place is definitely trying to reel in the younger crowd. Despite the high cost, we enjoyed it immensely as it was totally delicious. It also made me realize how much I miss this style of shave ice! I can honestly say I have never seen this type of bingsu or snow ice here in Okinawa until today.

So while we will not be coming here often since my wallet cannot afford it, it was so ono and refreshing on a hot day like today. My hope is that it will catch on here in Okinawa, and the costs can come down…

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You can’t even see the fluffy snow ice underneath all the cookie and chocolate! After we started digging in, there was no hope for another photo…

address for Yuki-no-Sonata 雪のソナタ: https://goo.gl/maps/NdSukK4NSW72

Kippan: きっぱん (橘餅)

きっぱん (橘餅)kippan is a traditional Ryukyu confection. It is made from kaabuchii カーブチー citrus (also called “kunenbo” 九年母) which grows in Yanbaru (northern Okinawa). The outside skin is peeled and the entire fruit is then used. It takes 4 days to make! It was one of the 16 different kinds of fine fruits, desserts and sweets served to the Royal Court, especially when entertaining envoys from China, but eventually became available to the common people as well.

There is only one shop in Okinawa that continues the laborious process of making this luxurious confection– Jahana Kippan-ten 謝花きっぱん店. They also make tougatsuke, preserved winter melon sweets.

Anyway, these are made with no preservatives or artificial flavors. Just simply a luxurious dessert to go with tea. The flavor is deep and rich, my husband said it was reminiscent of a fruitcake with the dried preserved fruit flavor. It is recommended to be paired with a fine tea or dessert wine. The kippan does not come cheap at ~420yen per piece, but considering the care and labor that goes into making each one by hand it is worth the luxury.


Address: Okinawa, Naha, Matsuo 1-5-14
https://goo.gl/maps/vhUKgGsApJu

干し梅: Hoshi ume

干しhoshi: dried

梅 (うめ) ume: Japanese plum (supposedly more like an apricot than an actual plum)


梅干し umeboshi: plums that are dried then pickled, sometimes known as “salt plums” or just “pickled/preserved plums.” It is a type of tsukemono 漬物, pickled side dish. These are in a “wet” state usually.

干し梅 hoshi ume: dried umeboshi… so yes, plum that has been dried, then pickled, then dried again, so there is very little moisture. The difference may seem confusing, but this is more of a candy version for snacking, rather than a side dish for a meal.


In Hawai’i, li hing mui is popular (“li hing” is a sweet/salty/umami powder and mui is “plum”). It is similar to hoshiume, as they are both dried preserved plums with salt and sugar, but they are covered in li hing powder which is super ono. But I think it is also a more intense flavor than just regular hoshi ume.

Anyway, I am no stranger to these types of dried salted plum snacks. In Okinawa, there is a brand of umeboshi snacks called Suppaiman スッパイマン. “Suppai” means “sour” so it is sort of a play on words. They are a nice treat and impart a sort of salty/sour flavor with a little bit of sweet. I highly recommend when you are in Okinawa to try them… or anywhere in Japan that sells this brand, I heard some people in mainland like these. Suppaiman also has other types of umeboshi candy, too. There was even a Blue Seal collaboration where it was a featured ice cream (sherbet) flavor of the month! Hopefully it will return… I find the the sour flavors so refreshing.

Right now in stores, you will see green ume 青梅, along with white liquor, rock sugar, and various containers all in the same area. It is that time of year when people make their own plum wine and umeboshi. Some people in Okinawa use awamori to make the plum wine instead of clear liquor. It will take quite awhile until they are ready for eating/drinking, so patience is key if you want to make your own. I have none of this patience, so I tend to buy mine rather than make at home.

Italian Tomato Cafe Jr.

Let me start with: this is by no means a fancy, Italian restaurant. It is a reasonably priced sort of fast-food chain restaurant with “Italian” pastas. There are also some fancy little cakes, too, for cafe time. I would not choose here over a real Italian cafe or restaurant, but if you are feeling lazy and want something easy… this works. If you want “real” Italian, check out one of these other places in my previous post.

I go here sometimes since it is decent for a quick lunch. It is consistent, and a decent value. It is easy and does not take too long. The menu usually has some English on it, and there are pictures. You can order a smaller size pasta or a larger size. So if you are looking for something easy to order and “western-ized” in Japan, this is a nice place to try.

Typically I order the smaller pasta with the salad/drink set, coming to 900yen. This is the perfect amount of food for me, but perhaps if you have a bigger appetite you will choose the larger size.

There are a few of these in Okinawa (mostly Naha), usually situated in strip mall type areas where there is plenty of parking. I usually go to the one in BarClay’s Court, Urasoe:  https://goo.gl/maps/eiDKWvRS4n22


Here is a link to find Italian Tomato Cafe Jr in all of Japan:  https://www.italiantomato.co.jp/search/

 

Uruma Gelato: うるまジェラート

ジェラートjera-to: gelato

Awhile back, on a beautiful warm day, I was on my way towards the bridge that connects Henza-jima, Miyagi-jima, and Ikei-jima. The weather was so nice, I could not help myself and I stopped for gelato at Uruma Gelato. Obviously gelato is not traditionally common in Okinawa, but it has started to gain a lot of popularity in recent years.

There are many flavors like beniimo, Okinawa brown sugar, shikwasa… but I ended up with Yamashiro koucha 山城紅茶 (made with black tea from Uruma, Okinawa). It was so ono! The prices are not too bad here, considering it is all homemade. I took my gelato towards the seaside area and relaxed before continuing on my journey. It was a great place to stop and take a break.

I don’t have a picture of the outside, but it is in among some other shops in a big building clearly labeled, with plenty of parking. I am pretty sure everything is in English there as this area is usually popular with tourists.

IMG_9111.JPG


address: https://goo.gl/maps/LGzoz2kEeV32

Rainbow Coffee: レインボーコーヒー

In Nakagusuku, close to the university, there is a cafe called Rainbow Coffee レインボーコーヒー. It is a nice and cozy place with free wifi. It is a great place to study and relax.

The drink menu focuses on coffee from around the world– you can get drip coffee, espresso drinks, and even tea. I also like the “cup cake”. No, not “cupcake”, but “cup cake”… which here means a pancake in a cup. With syrup and lots of cream. They are all pretty good, even if not good for you! Plus you can get a half-size with the lunch entrees, which are all reasonably priced for about 1000yen. They open for breakfast as well (9am). A nice spot to stop at when you are in the RyuDai 琉球大学 area.

address: https://goo.gl/maps/x9UqXHW8pyB2

Kushikatsu in Okinawa: 串カツ

串カツ kushikatsu: fried skewers.

I wrote previously about kushi-ya 串屋 establishments in general. Skewers of all types are fairly popular izakaya food. But Okinawa does have a few specific kushikatsu restaurants. Kushikatsu is actually considered a Kansai region food.

I will introduce 2 well-known kushikatsu restaurants in Okinawa; there are some more, smaller establishments about if you happen upon them.

First is Tanaka 田中, a chain from Osaka. It is located in Urasoe (P’s Square), with plenty of parking. They have a lot of my favorites, including garlic, shishito (small green peppers), benishouga (pickled ginger), shiitake, lotus root… plus meats for the meat eaters. The skewer prices are not too bad, but the drinks seem a bit high (though they do have nomihoudai 飲み放題 plans if you plan to drink a lot). And to be honest, I can’t imagine eating kushikatsu without beer to wash it down. They even have a a super-spicy tonkatsu-like sauce on the tables… it specifically says not for children on the label! By the way, you can order this sauce on Amazon Japan.

Next up is Monogatari 串家物語. This one is all-you-can-eat (tabehoudai 食べ放題), located on the 5th floor of Rycom Mall in Kitanakagusuku. The price is pretty cheap considering it is AYCE, and the quality is pretty good overall. Not only is it tabehoudai, you also fry them at your table. Every table has a built in fryer, and you go up to the bar to choose your items for frying, as well sauces for dipping. You also get a bowl with batter and one with breadcrumbs. It is fun to fry at your table; just don’t wear nice clothes because the smell will cling to them! Besides fried food, there is also a chocolate fountain, soft serve, and some other side items. We first ate at this chain in Kobe before it opened in Okinawa. When it opened in Okinawa, my husband immediately wanted to go there for his birthday lunch.

 

Jef: Home of Okinawa Goya Burgers

Jef ジェフ is a fast food “burger” joint here in Okinawa. There are only 4 locations, all towards the southern area of the island. It is… unique. Why? Well this place features goya ゴーヤー (English: bittermelon) in quite a few items: goya juice, goya rings, and goya-egg burgers. It’s kinda like a McDonalds, you know, if McDonalds served up goya; it is not exactly “fine-dining” but for cheap and fast eats, it isn’t too bad. And definitely an interesting experience when you come to Okinawa. Perhaps not the classiest of joints, but it has a very “old school” kind of feel.

It has an assortment of things like fries, regular hamburgers, fried chicken, and hot dogs as well as the iconic “goya burger”– which by the way is just egg, goya, and cheese topped with lettuce and mayo served on a hamburger bun no actual meat burger. Though you can get the goya burger with a slice of spam added. The goya rings are like onion rings, but with goya instead of onion, and for the daring they also serve fresh goya juice. For desserts they have things like zenzai, shakes, and soft serve ice cream. It is a pretty varied menu. Again, not like the most amazing experience you will ever have, but I kinda like them every now and then, and it is certainly one of the only fast-food burger places in the world where you can order a full meal of goya.


locations:

Nishihara: https://goo.gl/maps/n3v1T9x4yV72

Yonabaru: https://goo.gl/maps/Hw1gZVDvgFL2

Tomigusuku: https://goo.gl/maps/mvXWjSwZVqs

Naha (Tsuboya): https://goo.gl/maps/q7TzjFks3FN2

Okinawa Lunar Calendar, 5th month 4th day: ユッカヌヒー

On the 5th month 4th day of the lunar year is a day known as yukkanuhi ユッカヌヒー, meaning “4th day” in Okinawan language. It is to pray for good luck in fishing and maritime activities and a celebration day with traditional haarii ハーリー (dragon boat) races. This usually close to the end of the rainy season here in Okinawa. This year (2017) it will be Monday May 29th. Although I am supposed to go to work that day, I would really like to go watch the haarii…

On the 5th day of the 5th month, known as gungwachi gunichi グングヮチグニチ (五月五日, meaning “5th month 5th day” in Okinawan language), is Boy’s Day, also known as Children’s Day in the Japanese calendar (orginally “tengu no sekku” 端午の節句).

It is traditional to serve popo ぽーぽー and chinpin ちんぴん on these 2 days; it is also placed on the ancestors altar or the hinukan as an offering to pray for good health and prosperity of boys/children/family, as well as for ocean safety and good catches for fishermen.

It is also traditional to place irises (shoubu 菖蒲) and another type of sweet dish called amagashi アマガシ (or あまがし) on the altar or hinukan during these days in Okinawa.

Amagashi is sort of like a mix between amazake 甘酒 and zenzai ぜんざい; red beans mixed with rolled oats (wheat or barley), mung beans, rice koji, and brown sugar (it ferments for 2-3 days after making it). It used to be eaten with the leaves of the irises, but I have my doubts that it is common any more. It is possible to find pre-made in the local grocery stores, next to the zenzai cans and packages. It can be made with either Japanese azuki beans or red kidney beans, though the red kidney beans are actually more common due to the American influence after WW2, making them cheap and accessible.

 

 

Pork Tamago Onigiri: ポークたまごおにぎり

ポーク po-ku: pork

たまご tamago: egg

おにぎり onigiri: riceball

In this case, “pork” refers to spam. As any good Hawaiian will tell you, spam is most definitely an appropriate filling for musubi/onigiri (riceballs wrapped in nori/seaweed). They are eaten for breakfast, a quick snack, lunch, whenever. Here in Okinawa, people feel the same way. So that’s where this cute little shop called Pork Tamago Onigiri comes in– super fresh onigiri with spam, cooked in front of you.

Now, I don’t eat pork. But my husband does. When he heard about this shop he wanted to try it, so since we were in Naha, off we went towards the Makishi Market area to find it. The shop is located in an alley off the Makishi Market area and not hard to find at all; I remembered passing it a few times before while I was in Naha and wondering why so many people line up for spam onigiri.

It was a Sunday morning, but luckily there were only a few people ahead of him in line. He chose the spicy carrot, egg, and spam onigiri (it is called supaishi ninjin shiri-shiri スパイシー人参しりしり on the menu). I think the menu had English to some degree, and at least pictures, so it is not difficult to order. It took about 15 minutes until his order was ready; they were back there cooking and assembling… everything is made fresh to order! It was actually a pretty huge serving and my husband quite enjoyed it. This is not your typical conbini onigiri that has been sitting on the shelf for a few hours. Needless to say, now I know why it is always so busy at the small shop! They are even opening a branch at the Naha Airport~~ if you are a spam-lover, definitely check out of these shops.

address: https://goo.gl/maps/a2q3tf49dSL2

Playing Under the Stars in Okinawa: 毛遊び

毛遊び mou ashibi: the rough meaning is to gather in the fields or the seaside and play from early evening until late under the moon and the stars, eating while watching traditional dance and folk songs (and most like drinking alcohol). For those of you who read Japanese, this Okinawan pronunciation may seem strange… “ashibi” 遊び means “to play” in Okinawan language and “mou” 毛 actually has the same meaning as the kanji 野 for field/plains (毛 “ke” in Japanese it refers to fur or hair!).

Once upon a time in Okinawa, young adults used to gather around in a field from an early evening until midnight and enjoyed performances of traditional dances, songs, play sanshin while they were drinking awamori. It paints a very cheerful and nostalgic image for me.

In the old days, it was actually sort of like “marriage meetings”… an opportunity to meet a suitable partner for many young people; kind of like the modern gokon 合コン (“group date”) that go on today. These days the term “mou ashibi” is mostly used for family-friendly traditional song and dance events that happen in the evening. You may see many of these happening, particular in the summer/autumn time, usually near traditional or historical spots (such as at the gusuku sites). Families bring food and drinks, as well as mats/sheets to sit on (you can even buy these sheets at the Daiso, or sometimes they give them away at events). They enjoy music, dancing, and traditional entertainment under the moonlight.

I hope if you come to Okinawa you can make it to one of these special events, drinking and playing under the stars!

Naminoue Shrine: 波上宮

宮: shrine

Naminoue has sort of a romantic name– shrine above the waves. In Okinawan language, it is actually “Nanmin” なんみん (hence the Nanmin festival that is held here once a year).

It is a sacred area to offer prayers to Nirai Kanai ニライカナイ, which is sort of like “heaven” or “land of the gods.” The shrine was the primary shrine of the Ryukyu kingdom, the head of the 8 shrines of Ryukyu. Of course, like many things in Okinawa, it was destroyed in WWII, but fortunately reconstructed afterwards.

You will often see websites with beautiful shrine on the beach pictures, and while it is a nice shrine, it is not really like the pictures. You can walk down to the beach and the it is pretty to look up and see the shrine there, but it is no Shangri-la or anything. I think to get your best shot, you need to wade into the water… just be careful with your camera. If you google pictures of the shrine, you can definitely see some of these (slightly altered) photos and compare them with my “real life” version of the shrine. Well, also keep in mine these are also using a iphone camera, not a nice camera. Next time maybe I will remember to pictures of some of the other features as well.

As a note, this shrine is very popular during New Years for hatsumode.


address: https://goo.gl/maps/nCtmCMjp7rG2

There is very little parking here, so it is actually better to park at the beach or downtown Naha.

Ikei-jima AJ Resort and Onsen: 伊計島温泉

A new onsen opened at Aj Resort on Ikei-jima in Uruma (connected to main island by bridge) this past spring! The bath facility is called 黒潮の湯 Kuroshio-no-yu. It is not huge, but it is nice, with an indoor and outdoor bath, as well as a family bath! So while those with tattoo cannot use the public onsen (unless their policies have changed), there are really nice looking private family/couple baths that can be booked for 90 minutes for only 3000yen (they request booking in advance for the private baths since they only have 2 available private baths!). Green tea is added to the Okinawa deep-sea water, and the outdoor bath has jets.

The entrance fee is 1,200円 for adult non-overnight guests.

The only downside is it does not look like they offer any extra spa services. It is also quite a ways to get there as you have to cross the bridges from Uruma to Henza, Miyagi, and then finally all the way to the tip of Ikei-jima! So the journey is quite long to get out there… but it is quiet and remote, so you can have a peaceful, relaxing experience.

Since I was completely by myself when I went, I was able to snap some photos (a rare occasion for onsen!).


Aj Resort Onsen: 〒904‐2421 沖縄県うるま市与那城伊計1286
https://goo.gl/maps/FRN1ZU227fT2

website: http://www.aj-hotels.com