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Local Foods, Restaurants, Shops

Pork Tamago Onigiri: ポークたまごおにぎり

ポーク po-ku: pork

たまご tamago: egg

おにぎり onigiri: riceball

In this case, “pork” refers to spam. As any good Hawaiian will tell you, spam is most definitely an appropriate filling for musubi/onigiri (riceballs wrapped in nori/seaweed). They are eaten for breakfast, a quick snack, lunch, whenever. Here in Okinawa, people feel the same way. So that’s where this cute little shop called Pork Tamago Onigiri comes in– super fresh onigiri with spam, cooked in front of you.

Now, I don’t eat pork. But my husband does. When he heard about this shop he wanted to try it, so since we were in Naha, off we went towards the Makishi Market area to find it. The shop is located in an alley off the Makishi Market area and not hard to find at all; I remembered passing it a few times before while I was in Naha and wondering why so many people line up for spam onigiri.

It was a Sunday morning, but luckily there were only a few people ahead of him in line. He chose the spicy carrot, egg, and spam onigiri (it is called supaishi ninjin shiri-shiri スパイシー人参しりしり on the menu). I think the menu had English to some degree, and at least pictures, so it is not difficult to order. It took about 15 minutes until his order was ready; they were back there cooking and assembling… everything is made fresh to order! It was actually a pretty huge serving and my husband quite enjoyed it. This is not your typical conbini onigiri that has been sitting on the shelf for a few hours. Needless to say, now I know why it is always so busy at the small shop! They are even opening a branch at the Naha Airport~~ if you are a spam-lover, definitely check out of these shops.

address: https://goo.gl/maps/a2q3tf49dSL2

Culture, Local Events, Local Foods

Playing Under the Stars in Okinawa: 毛遊び

毛遊び mou ashibi: the rough meaning is to gather in the fields or the seaside and play from early evening until late under the moon and the stars, eating while watching traditional dance and folk songs (and most like drinking alcohol). For those of you who read Japanese, this Okinawan pronunciation may seem strange… “ashibi” 遊び means “to play” in Okinawan language and “mou” 毛 actually has the same meaning as the kanji 野 for field/plains (毛 “ke” in Japanese it refers to fur or hair!).

Once upon a time in Okinawa, young adults used to gather around in a field from an early evening until midnight and enjoyed performances of traditional dances, songs, play sanshin while they were drinking awamori. It paints a very cheerful and nostalgic image for me.

In the old days, it was actually sort of like “marriage meetings”… an opportunity to meet a suitable partner for many young people; kind of like the modern gokon 合コン (“group date”) that go on today. These days the term “mou ashibi” is mostly used for family-friendly traditional song and dance events that happen in the evening. You may see many of these happening, particular in the summer/autumn time, usually near traditional or historical spots (such as at the gusuku sites). Families bring food and drinks, as well as mats/sheets to sit on (you can even buy these sheets at the Daiso, or sometimes they give them away at events). They enjoy music, dancing, and traditional entertainment under the moonlight.

I hope if you come to Okinawa you can make it to one of these special events, drinking and playing under the stars!

Culture, Experiences

Naminoue Shrine: 波上宮

宮: shrine

Naminoue has sort of a romantic name– shrine above the waves. In Okinawan language, it is actually “Nanmin” なんみん (hence the Nanmin festival that is held here once a year).

It is a sacred area to offer prayers to Nirai Kanai ニライカナイ, which is sort of like “heaven” or “land of the gods.” The shrine was the primary shrine of the Ryukyu kingdom, the head of the 8 shrines of Ryukyu. Of course, like many things in Okinawa, it was destroyed in WWII, but fortunately reconstructed afterwards.

You will often see websites with beautiful shrine on the beach pictures, and while it is a nice shrine, it is not really like the pictures. You can walk down to the beach and the it is pretty to look up and see the shrine there, but it is no Shangri-la or anything. I think to get your best shot, you need to wade into the water… just be careful with your camera. If you google pictures of the shrine, you can definitely see some of these (slightly altered) photos and compare them with my “real life” version of the shrine. Well, also keep in mine these are also using a iphone camera, not a nice camera. Next time maybe I will remember to pictures of some of the other features as well.

As a note, this shrine is very popular during New Years for hatsumode.

address: https://goo.gl/maps/nCtmCMjp7rG2

There is very little parking here, so it is actually better to park at the beach or downtown Naha.

Culture, Experiences, Local Foods

Ikei-jima AJ Resort and Onsen: 伊計島温泉

A new onsen opened at Aj Resort on Ikei-jima in Uruma (connected to main island by bridge) this past spring! The bath facility is called 黒潮の湯 Kuroshio-no-yu. It is not huge, but it is nice, with an indoor and outdoor bath, as well as a family bath! So while those with tattoo cannot use the public onsen (unless their policies have changed), there are really nice looking private family/couple baths that can be booked for 90 minutes for only 3000yen (they request booking in advance for the private baths since they only have 2 available private baths!). Green tea is added to the Okinawa deep-sea water, and the outdoor bath has jets.

The entrance fee is 1,200円 for adult non-overnight guests.

The only downside is it does not look like they offer any extra spa services. It is also quite a ways to get there as you have to cross the bridges from Uruma to Henza, Miyagi, and then finally all the way to the tip of Ikei-jima! So the journey is quite long to get out there… but it is quiet and remote, so you can have a peaceful, relaxing experience.

Since I was completely by myself when I went, I was able to snap some photos (a rare occasion for onsen!).

Aj Resort Onsen: 〒904‐2421 沖縄県うるま市与那城伊計1286
https://goo.gl/maps/FRN1ZU227fT2

website: http://www.aj-hotels.com

Culture, Holidays, Local Events

Miruku (god): ミルク神

弥勒: Miroku (Japanese). In Okinawan language it is pronounced “Miruku.” It feels kind of strange, because ミルク miruku is one way to say “milk” in Japanese as well. But in this case, miruku ミルク is a deity 神様 (kami-sama), not the white beverage!

*神 kami means “god,” and -様 -sama is a very polite way to address people in Japanese.

Used as ミルク神, it should probably be pronounced miruku-shin, though I sometimes see variations such as miruku-gami and miruku-kami.

Miruku is actually one of the most commonly worshipped gods in the Ryukyu islands, especially the Yaeyama islands. Often someone will dress as Miruku in the island festivals, a long yellow robe with a large white mask carrying a fan. He is believed to have come from across the sea, nirai kanai ニライカナイ (this means sort of like “heaven” to Okinawan people), and comes bringing good fortune.

Hateruma 波照間島, the southern most island, is famous for “Mushaama,” a festival during the obon. The festival is designated as a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property, and held on July 14th of the lunar calendar. It combines obon festivities with harvest ceremonies like the Miruku fertility deity parade and shishimai (lion dance). Islanders offer prayers to their ancestors and pray for their happiness, bountiful crops and of course, a big catch at sea.

In Akata 赤田 of Shuri, a traditional ceremony called miruku unke みるくウンケー is held. A smiling maitreya (a bodhisattva) and his followers walk around the community and pray for the good health and prosperity of residents. The miruku unke ceremony was revived in 1994 after not being held for about sixty years! Since then it has become an annual event. Starting from the Akata Club Community Center, the miruku walks at the head of the parade, called suneei スネーイ. About 100 people follow, including a marching band and children carrying flags of the Ryukyu era (these particular flags are called ンカジ, nkaji, which means “centipede” in Okinawa language, due to their jagged edges), while the miruku waves his paper fan to drive off evil spirits from around the people waiting to watch the parade. Often babies cry (I guess he is a little scary) and elderly people wave from the second floor of their houses. The parade is called suneei スネーイ. It typically happens on the Sunday before Obon. In 2018 this will be August 19th; in previous years it has begun around 4:30pm. In some other villages, the miruku parades occur on different days.

If you live in Okinawa, you should definitely go watch one of these parades with Miruku-kamisama!

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Saw this guy at the Okinawa Prefectural Museum.

Youtube videos of Miruku in the town near me, Nishihara.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP_J4FBcAwE

 

Cooking, Local Drinks, Local Foods

Bukubuku-cha, at home

ぶくぶく茶 bukubuku-cha: “buku buku” tea, a type of Ryukyuan foamy tea using genmai-cha 玄米茶 (toasted rice tea) and sanpin-cha さんぴん茶 (jasmine tea). I wrote about bukubuku-cha and some of the cafes where you can experience this in Okinawa here.

Today, I decided to try to make it at home, using a little packet I purchased on Kokusai-dori. It actually turned out great! What a nice omiyage (souvenir) this would make for a tea lover.

IMG_0126

Well, when I opened it up, there were several individual little packets (green tea, sanpin tea, roasted rice, and crushed peanuts) inside, as well as a list of instructions… so I got together the things I needed: 500 mL hard water (mineral water, purchased at SanA), a whisk (or 3 chopsticks works, too), and some bowls/teacups.

Step 1 & 2: take the 500 mL of hard water and boil, add in the roasted rice, and let simmer (~medium heat) for 10-15 minutes).

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Step 3: Steep the sanpin tea and green tea in 500 mL of regular hot water (nearly boiling, we have a Japanese electric water kettle). As far as time, use the strength you prefer (probably ~ 3-5 minutes).

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Step 4: In a bowl, add 200 mL of the sanpin tea/green tea mixture and 100 mL of the roasted rice/hard water mixture.

Step 5: Using your bamboo whisk (or chopsticks), whisk to make foamy bubbles. As you make more bubbles, you can scoop them up and set them aside in another bowl if you desire.

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Step 6: In a teacup add some of just the sanpin tea/green tea mixture from Step 3. Add just a TINY amount of the roasted rice/hard water mixture.

Step 7: Add your foam on top of the tea in the teacups and top with the crushed peanuts. Now time to enjoy… I served it with the chiirunkou I purchased yesterday. Yum, a regular Ryukyuan tea party. This package is supposedly “individual” serving, but it was just enough for my husband and I to each enjoy a cup.

**The only thing in the packages were 1) green tea (sencha 煎茶), 2) jasmine tea, 3) roasted rice (煎り米 irigome, or sometimes known as genmai 玄米 and though this can also mean brown rice, here the meaning can also be roasted rice), and 4) crushed peanuts, so if you can get these plus mineral water you can make this yourself at home by following the above instructions.

Experiences, Travel: Outer Islands

Okinawa: Outer Islands & How to reach them

There are many islands make up Okinawa Prefecture (the Ryukyu archipelago). Some are connected to the main island by bridge, others require a ferry or plane. From Okinawa main island (where Naha airport) is located, I list how to get to each. Ferry port addresses are linked at the bottom of the post.

These islands are beautiful, and allows you to escape the urban jungle that is the city of Naha and Okinawa main island! I have not made separate posts for all the islands I have visited (I have been to most of these), but I will slowly work on it and update as I go.

Note: uninhabited islands that you could possibly swim or kayak to will not be included in this list.

First I will start with the drive-able islands, connected by bridge. These are “organized” by area.

North, off Motobu peninsula

  • Yagaji 屋我地島
  • Kouri 古宇利島
  • Sesoko 瀬底島

Central, off Uruma

South

Very short ferry rides, half hour or less. Again, I have indicated if the port access is North, Central, or South. I have also provided a link (in English if possible) with ferry times and fares. Since they are subject to change, it is easier to post the link than try to write out all the info.

You can reach the Kerama islands 慶良間諸島 via ferry. All of the ferries leave out of Tomari Port in Naha. Again, links to fares and timetables are provided.

  • Zamami 座間味島, high speed ferry 50-70 minutes, slow 120 minutes. Ferry info: http://www.vill.zamami.okinawa.jp
  • Aka 阿嘉島, high speed ferry 50 minutes, slow 90 minutes. Geruma 慶留間島 is then accessible by bridge. It is on the same ferry line as Zamami, so click the link above for fare and time schedule.
  • Tokashiki 渡嘉敷島, high speed ferry 35 min, slow ferry 70 min. Ferry info: http://www.vill.tokashiki.okinawa.jp
  • Kume 久米島: I recommend flying a short 35 minutes instead of a 4 hour ferry! It is well worth the small extra cost. From Tomari Port (Naha) for ferry, from Naha Airport for plane. Ferry info: http://www.kumeline.com

Long ferry ride (2 hours or more), or alternatively a short plane ride. Ferry information provided when possible.

  • Izena 伊是名島. From Unten Port (Nakijin, North). Ferry info (Japanese, ferry info is in the sidebar under フェリー): http://vill.izena.okinawa.jp
  • Iheya 伊平屋島. From Unten Port (Nakijin, North). Ferry info (Japanese, ferry info is in the sidebar under フェリー): http://www.vill.iheya.okinawa.jp
  • Aguni 粟国島. From Tomari Port (Naha), but there is only 1 round trip per day as weather conditions permit. You can also fly here, which is probably much more convenient.
  • **Yoron 与論島, technically Kagoshima prefecture, but you can get there easily from Okinawa main island. 3 hours from Motobu Port (North) via ferry. Alternatively you can fly into the airport there much quicker, via Naha Airport.

**Some notes about the ferries: most ferries will accept reservations in advance– during the peak season (Golden week and summer) I highly recommend you reserve ahead of time! Some ferries can also take cars… for a very expensive fee, and you must reserve in advance since spaces are filled quickly. It is always cheaper to rent a car/moped/bicycle where you are going rather than take your own, unless you are going for a week or more.

You can reach the Yaeyama islands 八重山諸島 and Miyako islands 宮古列島 by a short airplane ride (an hour or less) from Okinawa main island. There are no passenger ferries from Okinawa main islands down to these islands (and even if there were it would take over 20 hours to reach). It is easy to rent a car or scooter on these islands to get around.

To reach the Miyako islands, first you fly into Miyako-jima 宮古島. Most are easily accessible via bridge.

  • Kurima 来間島 (bridge)
  • Shimoji 下地島 (bridge)
  • Irabu 伊良部島 (bridge)
  • Ikema 池間島(bridge)
  • Tarama 多良間島 (ferry)
  • Ogami 大神島 (ferry)

To reach the Yaeyama islands, first fly into Ishigaki 石垣島. From here you can also reach the other islands, all via ferry:

  • Taketomi 竹富島
  • Iriomote 西表島
  • Kuroshima 黒島
  • Kohama 小浜島
  • Yonaguni 与那国島
  • Hateruma 波照間島, southern most island in Okinawa prefecture.

Port Locations:

*Azama Port:  https://goo.gl/maps/TQ2x3vZjt652

*Heshikiya Port: https://goo.gl/maps/2Q6MbXJvFhA2

*Motobu Port:  https://goo.gl/maps/raBGDa9SJvA2

*Toguchi Port:  https://goo.gl/maps/TVZxMUCRLZw

*Tomari Port, Naha: https://goo.gl/maps/ENhdVrKXucv
Parking is NOT free at Tomari Port! But there is a large parking garage. Parking fee calculator here: https://www.tomarin.com/info/calc/index.php

*Unten Port: https://goo.gl/maps/8rd1xEUhatH2

 

Culture, Local Foods

Chiirunkou: ちいるんこう (鶏卵糕)

ちいるんこう（鶏卵糕) chiirunkou is another type of traditional Ryukyuan sweet. It is like a steamed sponge cake, similar to castella カステラ. It is moist, fluffy, and delicious with that perfect hint of candied orange flavor and nuttiness from island peanuts called jimami ジーマーミ (the reddish dots are island peanuts dyed red with an orange peel sugar syrup). Like most Ryukyu sweets, this sponge cake was only consumed by nobility and royals; since eggs are a main ingredient and were scarce during the Ryukyu Kingdom era this cake was especially valued as a luxurious high-class sweet.

My husband and I both preferred the “regular” flavor to the brown sugar flavor. The brown sugar flavor was a bit heavier with a strong molasses taste, which for me did not quite fit with the sponginess of the cake. We served it with some Chinese green tea, perfect for the rainy season in Okinawa. It would also go well with bukubuku-cha, or even just plain sanpin-cha!

This particular chiirunkou came from Arakaki Kashiten 新垣菓子店 in Shuri, where I have purchased some Ryukyu sweets previously. It was sold as a half-and-half set with both cakes inside. Of course, as always, I was given ample free chinsukou cookies with my purchase. This makes a nice omiyage, as well.

address: https://goo.gl/maps/kcFvzXA6BvQ2

 

Culture, Experiences

Bingata, Ryukyu dyed fabric: 紅型

Bingata 紅型 is a traditional Ryukyuan technique to dye fabric. It is usually colorful and beautiful with many traditional designs showcasing the beauty and pride of Ryukuan (Okinawan) heritage. Here in Okinawa, there are many places where you can make your own!

Additionally, there are many places that sell kimono, bags, and other items made with this beautifully dyed fabric. Some of these handmade items are quite expensive, though.

I made this pictured example at Shuri Ryusen 首里琉染 (it is now in a nice frame and hanging on my wall), but there are other places to make similar items. Some people like making the whale shark or other Okinawa motif designs rather than the traditional design pictured. It makes a really nice souvenir of Okinawa!

Shuri Ryusen首里琉染: 沖縄県那覇市首里山川町 1-54

Culture, Experiences, Local Events, Local Foods

Nanmin Matsuri: なんみん祭

波上宮 Naminoue Shrine, located in Naha.

神輿 mikoshi: palanquin used to transport Shinto deities, a portable shrine.

なんみん祭: Nanmin Matsuri (Naminoue Shrine festival, Nanmin is the shrine’s name in Okinawan language)

Possibly the closest to a Japanese mainland-style mikoshi you will see in Okinawa is during the Nanmin Festival at the Naminoue shrine!

Every year the mikoshi procession is on the Sunday of the festival. It starts at 10am from Naminoue Shrine and winds it way to the open space in front of the Palette Kumoji (Ryubo) at the end of Kokusai-dori. There is also eisa, traditional Ryukyu dance, shishimai (lion dance), karate demonstrations, a beach tsunahiki (tug-of-war), bukubuku-cha/tea ceremony, and more during this weekend festival (Saturday & Sunday).

This is a must-see for anyone living in Okinawa who has not experienced this on the mainland of Japan. Obviously on mainland, this is a much more common site to see, and they are very exciting and exuberant events. This one is much smaller, and less crowded, which in some ways makes for a better experience!

**Bukubuku-cha event: started from 2pm on Saturday of the festival, Naminoue shrine. We watched as some skilled ladies made the foam for the tea. At 2pm, they had benches to sit down while they came around with individual trays containing a cup of tea topped with foam and 2 chinsukou (cookies). This event was free! Yum! On Saturday, there was also children’s sumo from 1pm, and some taiko performances from 6pm (we did not stay for taiko so I cannot comment on that experience).

**Mikoshi event: started at 10am on Sunday at the shrine, however we met up with them by the Ryubo Palette Kumoji around 11am. There was the parade into the square, then some ceremonies/rituals. Next came various performances, of which the shishimai was probably my favorite. As always they came thru the crowd to try to bite small children. While this was going on, the pole-dancing went on by Kokusai-dori. No, not like that… by pole-dancing I mean “Gaaee” ガーエー, which means something like “winner’s triumphant shout.” Basically it entails guys carrying a large, heavy bamboo pole decorated with flags and flowers and other decorations, called hatagashira 旗頭. Hatagashira are an example of the traditional Okinawan culture. They are symbols created to represent a the success of a village. After the various performances wrapped up, the parade returned to the shrine and beach for some more events. At this point my hubby was pretty done, so we headed home.

imgur album of pictures: https://imgur.com/a/HLbRn

Naminoue Shrine: https://goo.gl/maps/hTQHchmVj8G2

Palette Kumoji: https://goo.gl/maps/kj1rYVvFkr42

**it is best to take public transportation to this event, or park in one of the lots around Kokusai-dori– there is no parking at the shrine itself.

Experiences, Travel: Japan

Ghibli Museum & Kichijoji

三鷹の森ジブリ美術館: “Mitaka no mori Jiburi Bijustsukan” is the name of the Ghibli museum, located in Inokashira Park 井の頭公園 in Kichijoji 吉祥寺. We took an overnight trip to Tokyo, staying by Kichijoji station in order to visit the Ghibli museum (and to eat some totoro themed cream puffs!).

On the day they released tickets (10 am on the 10th of the month before you want to visit), despite the webpage crashing due to high traffic I was (barely) able to secure tickets online using the Lawson’s ticket site. Tickets are only 1000yen per person, and I was not about to try to go through some 3rd party “tour” that included a high transportation fee. Of course, the weekend tickets all sold-out in seconds, so by the time my browser got through, I was at least able to secure last entry (4pm) Friday tickets.

In May, it was the last opportunity to try out the adult-sized cat-bus, so of course I had to fulfill my life dream. This past Friday, I finally got to go to the Ghibli museum and sit in the cat-bus. And the everything about the experience was amazing!

We flew into Haneda airport in Tokyo on Friday early afternoon, arriving about 1pm. From there we jumped onto the trains towards Kichijoji station (2 transfers). The train system in Tokyo can look overwhelming, but with GoogleMaps, it has gotten so easy to navigate. We were at Kichijoji station by about 2pm; since we skipped lunch, we got a snack at the station before heading to the hotel a mere few meters away. We dropped off the suitcase in the room, and headed out to Inokashira park.

At the park entrance, we decided on some crepes from a mama-san crepe stand (husband got savory while I got a sweet blueberry cream cheese), as well as some coffee from the Honolulu Coffee Company (just like home!). We sat by the lake eating and watched the swan boats go by on the pond. After we finished, we strolled through the park, taking the long way to the museum since at this point we had over an hour to kill. The park was really nice, with lots of little surprises everywhere. At about 3:20 we arrived at the museum and there were already a few people milling near the entrance. My husband went up to the ticket taker, and he told us to be lined up at 3:30. Then he laughed when he saw my husband’s uchinaaguchi shirt from Okinawa, apparently he is a fan of Okinawa. So for a few minutes I took some pictures outside the museum, and some people started lining up. At 3:30, they started checking tickets; we received a receipt for 3:40 entrance. So, just as a tip, show up half an hour early to your ticket time and line up! I did not realize this, so I was glad we were so lucky to get in a little earlier than expected, giving us some extra time in the museum.

We entered, received our film ticket and guidance map. There are no pictures inside, only outside. I actually like this policy, otherwise it would be nuts with people taking selfies and insane numbers of photos. I won’t spoil the surprises, but all the exhibits are pretty magical, from the architecture of the house to all the small details, the drawings and sketches, the film pieces, and of course, the life-size cat-bus. It was quite beautiful, and sort of dream-like.

Originally I was unhappy with the 4-6pm entry ticket– I was hoping for an earlier entry. BUT as it turns out, I think it was actually one of the best times to enter! Why? Well, it actually started to be less busy at this time… most people with earlier entrances were finished already and were either waiting for food in the cafe or went home, so when we walked around the museum, it did not feel all that crowded. Plus, the weather was nice, so mid-way through our wanderings we ended up drinking a Ghibli exclusive beer on the patio under the trees (though be warned it is not cheap at 650yen).

Most (English-speaking) people in the online reviews said to skip the short movie showing in the Saturn Theater of the museum… I am glad we did not listen to this, because the movie showing on our trip was “Mei and the Kitten-bus” (めいとこねこバス Mei to koneko-basu). It was so cute! I feel like even with limited Japanese skills, the words were not difficult at all, and the story was easy to follow. 100% recommend. I kind of wish I bought the book in the gift shop, actually– Totoro is one of my favorites.

The last thing we did, was of course, visit the gift shop. By this point, the line was a bit long since the museum was closing at 6pm, though they had several cashiers working to make it go smoothly. We each got a museum folder, I also got a fluffy museum tenugui (Japanese towel) and a mini plushie cat-bus.

We finally had to say goodbye to the museum, leaving at about 5:50. We went through everything the museum had to offer, and obviously could have used a little more time but it ended up to be a fabulous time.

After the wandering back through the park towards the station, we looked through some of the little shops. We stopped at an Okinawan restaurant that had a lot of craft beers on tap (we did not order food there…). Afterwards I took my husband to a rather popular chain ramen joint called Mouko Tanmen Nakamoto 蒙古タンメン中本 since he had been putting up with my Ghibli and crepes. It was your typical set up, narrow restaurant with only counter seats, with a ticket machine at the entrance and a line of locals waiting to catch a seat. The menu was only in Japanese, but it is not difficult, just look for the amount of spicy you want. We were the only foreigners in there that evening (though it looked like at least one other tourist, the rest were mostly office workers). Luckily they slung ramen pretty fast, and the wait was not all that long. While we waited, we noticed people SWEATING, some even crying a little, and one poor girl had an enormous pile of tissues in front of her! This shop is known for spicy ramen. My husband got the #8 spicy ramen (the levels go to 11), and he said that was plenty spicy for him. We noticed several people bought the side of mapo tofu and added it into the ramen! I hadn’t realized this was the popular item (topping??) or I would have told my husband to buy it for himself. They had bibs for protecting your clothes, and since they were many office workers still in suits most people used one.

After finishing ramen, it was time to head back to the hotel and relax. The next morning we walked around Kichijoji and did some shopping. I also ended up trying 2 different taiyaki in the morning. Amane Taiyaki 天音たい焼き was amazing! I usually feel that most taiyaki sellers are the same, but this one was a step above probably any other I have ever had! We also ended up getting a coconut milk boba tea at the Moomin stand. Too cute!

And for one of the highlights of our trip: Totoro cream puff! On the way to Haneda airport, we stopped at Setagaya-Daita station and walked a very short distance to Shirohige Choux Cream Factory 白髭のシュークリーム工房 (the Tolo-pan Coffee and Bakery cafe is on the 2nd floor). They have some seasonal flavors, as well as custard and chocolate year-round. You can get these adorable cream puffs to go, or eat at the cafe upstairs. Since we were tight on time, we ended up getting them to go so we could eat them in the airport lounge. We chose matcha cream, chocolate cream, and custard! Not only were they super cute but also delicious.

imgur album:

https://imgur.com/a/bcpBJ

Ghibli Museum 三鷹の森ジブリ美術館: https://goo.gl/maps/5uFqZP8DSfx

Craft Beer & Okinawan food CRAFT BEER Market クラフトビアマーケット:  https://goo.gl/maps/kaXMfEmY9792

Mouko Tanmen Nakamoto 蒙古タンメン中本 (Ramen): https://goo.gl/maps/fLe2S2HNTA42

Amane Taiyaki 天音たい焼き: https://goo.gl/maps/xnXz46UhQf52

Shirohige Choux Cream Factory 白髭のシュークリーム工房: https://goo.gl/maps/knfCCXi6QMP2

Culture, Experiences, Travel: Japan

An Okinawa “Bucket list”

**I am working on updating this “Bucket List” to include more must-see sites/events, as well as making links for everything! For now, this is the short version… have patience while I continue to update it with more info.

Many people post “bucket lists” for living in Okinawa. But I find that many of them are not unique to living in Okinawa at all (or even unique to living in Japan for that matter). So I will break some of the must-do/see down. Some are unique to Okinawa, while some are more inclusive of Japan in general.

First, there are some of the obvious tourist attractions/activities that pretty much everybody knows about:

  • Churaumi Aquarium in Motobu
  • Shuri-jo
  • Dive or snorkel in the Keramas
  • Naha Great Tug-of-War
  • Itoman Peace Park and Memorial
  • UNESCO Castle Ruin Sites (Nakagusuku-jo, Zakimi-jo, Nakijin-jo, Katsuren-jo, etc.)
  • Seifu Utaki (UNESCO site)
  • Sakura-viewing (Hanami)
  • Watch eisa (Okinawa bon dance)
  • watch to haarii boat races
  • Eat Okinawa soba, goya champuru, umibudou, and other local dishes
  • Eat Japanese-style dishes (sushi, tempura, okonomiyaki, etc)
  • Hike some of the various waterfalls
  • travel to outer islands (Ishigaki, Miyako, Taketomi, Ie, etc)
  • glass-blowing experience
  • visit various Battle of Okinawa sites (such as the Tomori Stone Shisa)
  • visit the Orion Beer factory
  • Eat at Blue Seal Ice Cream and A&W “American”-style restaurants
  • visit American Village
  • go to Okinawa World or Ryukyu-mura (very touristy Ryukyu village recreations)

Besides these, there are many other things to see and do! Some of these are often overlooked:

Most people seem to neglect the truly local festivals and events, and stick to the bigger ones advertised only in English. But there are so many more experiences to be had on Okinawa, and this is only the beginning of a list. Plus, there is so much more that I do not even know about!

 

 

Culture

Digital Archive of Ryukyu/Okinawa Special Collection

On the University of the Ryukyus library website, “Digital Archive of Ryukyu/Okinawa Special Collection,” you can find valuable materials written in various languages. There are a fair number of English translations to go along with these special collections, though the website itself is mainly in Japanese. That being said, anyone with an interest in Ryukyu history ought to check it out. There are not a whole lot of resources available to English speakers, so I figured I would share this. If I have time, I may type up some more notes regarding these documents.

https://shimuchi.lib.u-ryukyu.ac.jp/

Culture, Holidays

Children’s Day & Chimaki

こどもの日 kodomo-no-hi is Children’s Day, a public holiday in Japan celebrated on May 5th. There are many events, especially for families and children going on during this time. Many places in Okinawa give free or discounted admission to various attractions, such as the aquarium, museums, the zoo, boat tours, and gardens. People will fly koinobori 鯉のぼり, carp flags, all around the towns– it is such a nice site to see. Originally it was Boys’ Day, Tango no Sekku 端午の節句, but has been changed to celebrate the happiness and health of all children. People still celebrate Boys’ Day in conjunction, though; you will see samurai armor on display, similar to seeing the doll displays during Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day).

ちまき chimaki is a type of rice “dumpling.” This type of chimaki is a sweet and sticky rice dumpling with kudzu 葛 (arrowroot) wrapped in bamboo leaves. Chimaki is connected to Kyoto culture (it is Kyogashi 京菓子, traditional Japanese sweet made particularly in Kyoto), but originally is said to come from China. It is so fragrant and soft, so tasty! It is a popular treat for Children’s Day. I was able to find some at the Japanese confectionary at the SanA mall near me, so obviously I was tempted into buying some.

address for Japanese confectionary Hanafuu 花風: https://goo.gl/maps/8AsJs1s9Sa72

Culture

Kitanakagusuku Shisa Neighborhood

In the neighborhood that surrounds Nakagusuku-jo (one of the UNESCO gusuku heritage sites), the residents are known for taking great care to beautify the area. The flowers are always well tended after, while shisa シーサー and other pottery/sculptures can be found dotted all over. Now, to be honest, some of these sculptures border on the bizarre (disembodied feet, for example), and it remains a mystery to me why they exist but it makes for an interesting experience. I won’t ruin the surprises in store for you if you decide to wander around this area, so I only put up a sampling of pictures below. There is much more fun to discover in this neighborhood.

While you walk through the area, there are a handful of small historical sites, some sacred wells and small parks, and most predominantly Nakamura House (a preserved old Ryukyu-style house that displays many features of traditional architecture).

We had an enjoyable afternoon just strolling around the area, just spotting all the various styles of shisa displayed and contemplating some of the designs of some of the sculptures. If you have time after visiting Nakagusuku-jo, I recommend enjoying a walk around the neighborhood, as well as a stop at Nakamura House (you get free tea and snack with your admission). Gosamaru’s tomb and a scenic lookout point are also in the area (read more here).

 

 

Restaurants

Thai food in Okinawa

One of the things I miss quite a bit about Hawai’i is the abundance of Thai restaurants. Here in Okinawa, there are a few places to get decent Thai food (and several not so great places…). So admittedly, I am a bit biased towards whether these places also have vegetarian (or at least meat-free) options. This is not a comprehensive list, but most of the more “popular” options for Thai food in Okinawa.

South:

Siam シャム: This place is great, though vegetarian options are not a default. If you ask nicely, though, they will serve Pad Thai without meat. Last time I checked this was 1 of the only 3 Thai restaurants with a Thai owner. https://goo.gl/maps/c2mDiwuAx9T2

Cafe Curucuma (a.k.a. “Thai in the Sky”) カフェくるくま: Not recommended. While the views are nice, the food was terrible the one and only time I went (but with large portions). Also the wait… this place is popular for reasons I do not understand, and you will likely wait a long time for a table. Some people like it, but I was less than impressed. I also do not recall any vegetarian options. https://goo.gl/maps/eDcAuoYd6y62

Prik Thai プリックタイ: Nothing here was vegetarian, but I was able to order “without meat” (though success was questionable). It was okay at best.  https://goo.gl/maps/wWybuhQxpRr

Spice Herb Holiday スパイスハーブホリデー: I have yet to come here, but I hear it is decent. Hopefully I can make it down here sometime soon.  https://goo.gl/maps/gsYphV92Umr

Central:

Aridoi アリドイ: Very good place, probably the best on island (one of the 3 with actual Thai owners). I don’t think the vegetarian options are by default, but you can ask to have them made vegetarian.  https://goo.gl/maps/JGZbC8aY5fD2

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Pad See Ew at Aridoi

Jai Thai ジャイタイ: Located in American Village, I went here once… and it was way overpriced and pretty much awful. Touted as having a lot of vegan and vegetarian options I was excited to try it, but very, very disappointed. As such, I never returned.  https://goo.gl/maps/MuLoRkpbdpR2

Thaicoon タイクーン: Relatively new place in American Village. They have a cheap lunch buffet, but since it is not veg-friendly I have yet to try this place (I think dinner is regular menu). It doesn’t really look very authentic, but it gets mixed reviews, so may be worth a shot sometime.  https://goo.gl/maps/rR5M3qca7cR2

Aroyna Tabeta あろいなたべた: Also located in American Village. Sadly I have yet to try it as I just don’t visit American Village area very often. https://goo.gl/maps/esoVBfGt9Ly

Siam Binto シャムビントウ: New! Located outside the RyuDai East Gate. Pretty decent, and even though the menu is chicken based, you can order a vegetarian version of the pad thai, green curry, and red curry. They are run by Thai chefs and even do takeout.  https://goo.gl/maps/MVQ9VrExYKU2

North:

Shirokuma アジアン食堂 シロクマ: located in Yomitan, not exactly authentic, but decent nonetheless.  https://goo.gl/maps/n9Cdu57QpF22

Khrua Thai: I have not been, but according to my husband it is so-so.  https://goo.gl/maps/7HNf5U6VMox

Som Chai ソムチャイ: Another location I have not been. It is near some bases, so probably why I have not been there. The pictures look okay, but I have never been in a hurry to try them.  https://goo.gl/maps/RHC4DZYnkV32

**I will add some pictures sometime soon.

Japanese sweets, Local Foods, Shops

Taimo (taro) Pie: 田いもパイ

田芋 or 田いも taimo: type of taro

パイ pai: “pie” in romaji

In Nakagusuku village there is a small shop called Nakatomi Kashi-ten なかとみ菓子店 　(Nakatomi sweets shop) that specializes in taimo pie. You can often find them selling their small fried pies at food events on the island or visit their shop.

The shop is on a small road off of Rt. 29 in Nakagusuku; at the turn their are purplish colored flags with the words 田いもパイ on them. Following the small signs down the road you will end up at their small shop where you can purchase the pies. Sometimes they have some seasonal sweets as well, but mostly it is just the taimo pies which are 100yen each.

The pies have a crispy fried outside and are stuffed with taimo filling. Very delicious. I recommend taking them home and reheating them, maybe adding a side of ice cream. This is one of the many unique sweets you can find in Okinawa!

address: https://goo.gl/maps/yUiSWqSwQqB2

Interested in more unique Okinawa Sweets? Check out these previous posts:

Kunpen: くんぺん

Chinsukou: ちんすこう

More on Ryukyu Sweets

Machikaji: まちかじ (松風)

Tougatsuke: 冬瓜漬

Okinawa Sweets: 沖縄のお菓子

Famous “No” Manjuu in Shuri: のー饅頭

Fuchagi: フチャギ (more Okinawa mochi!)

Okinawa mochi, pt.3: Nantou ナントゥー餅

Sangwachi gwashi: 三月菓子

Muuchii: ムーチー

Okinawa Zenzai: 沖縄ぜんざい

Japanese foods

Japan’s Bull-Dog Sauce

Recently as I was browsing the bookstore, I came across a magazine that explained various Japanese “ways of life” for foreigners. Of course, the magazine was in Japanese, so I question exactly who this magazine was aimed at (after all, if you already speak Japanese, you are probably fairly aware of many aspects of the culture already). But anyway, I did see an interesting short article and chart explaining Bull-Dog sauce.

Now I am pretty familiar with the Bull-Dog brand sauce (as well as the various spin-off brands) and have long used it prior to moving to Japan. But what I found most interesting was the star chart that evaluated the characteristics for 6 different types of Bull-Dog brand sauces; sweetness, fruitiness, sourness, spice, and viscosity. After all, if you are new to Japan, and hear about this Bull-Dog sauce or maybe you had some at a restaurant and now you want to buy some for home, how do you choose which one to buy when you see these different sauces that all look basically the same?

First, let us start with what is this sauce? “Sauce” ソース in Japan refers to a thick brown, slightly sweet and fruity sauce with a bit of spice, somewhat similar to Worcestershire sauce but developed for Japanese tastes. A quote from the Bull-Dog sauce English webpage:

“The primary ingredients in Japanese sauce are vegetables and fruits, to which vinegar and many spices are blended. This had the effect of deepening the richness and increasing the appetite. Japanese tonkatsu sauce uses a lot of vegetables and fruits like tomatoes and apples, which make it a highly viscous sauce well suited for deep-fried foods, without getting them greasy or soggy.”

Okay, sounds good~~ but…

What is it used for? Well, almost anything, from tonkatsu to okonomiyaki to hamburg steak to stir-fries! It is kinda like the Japanese version of barbecue sauce or steak sauce. Admittedly, I always have at least one (if not more) of these Bull-Dog sauces in my fridge at any given time since it is so versatile and tasty.

Now, back to the magazine article…

IMG_9664.JPG
Bull-Dog Sauce Chart Comparison

Chart key points: sweetness 甘み, sourness 酸味, viscosity 粘度, fruitiness 果実感, spice flavor スパイス感

From left to right, up to down, here is the quick run down:

#1 とんかつ tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet): sweetness 8, sourness 6, viscosity 10, fruitiness 5, spice 7. Very thick, balanced sauce.

#2 贅沢ブレンド とんかつ luxury blend tonkatsu: sweetness 7, sourness 7, viscosity 8, fruitiness 10, spice 8. Good as a demiglace sauce.

#3 中濃 chuunou (meaning “medium-thick”): sweetness 5, sourness 9, viscosity 6, fruitiness 6, spice 8. Thinner but “punchier” sauce, perfect for fried foods.

#4 贅沢ブレンド 中濃 luxury blend chuunou: sweetness 6, sourness 8, viscosity 5, fruitiness 8, spice 10. With 24 types of herbs and spices, with a refreshing taste.

#5 うま uma: sweetness 8, sourness 7, viscosity 4, fruitiness 7, spice 6. Made more to Japanese-style tastes, with konbu (kelp) and katsuo-dashi (fish broth), garlic and goma (sesame).

#6 スーパープレミアム極 super premium: sweetness 8, sourness 8, viscosity 3, fruitiness 9, spice 9. This is the super premium version of the original “worcestershire” sauce. Balanced and smooth, one of the more versatile of the Bull-Dog sauces.

Of course, there are some more sauces that are not on this chart, but hopefully this can get your started into the world of choosing the best BullDog sauce for you!

Other sauces you may see are the original “worcestershire” ウスター (this is not really the same as English worcestershire sauce), organic versions of the above mentioned sauces,  and even specific takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and yakisoba sauces! And this is just the Bull-Dog brand… !

For those who would like to delve even deeper into the world of Japanese brown sauce there is an interesting and funny blog post by someone who ate a lot of tonkatsu with different brands of “sauces” and gave them ratings (this was in our beautiful home Hawai’i). Intense, but you will learn a lot!  http://tastyislandhawaii.com/2009/12/07/the-great-tonkatsu-sauce-shootout/

Culture, Shops

Personal Seals: Hanko 判子 and Inkan 印鑑

Hanko 判子: refers to the actual physical seal

Inkan 印鑑: refers to the ink

Hanko and inkan are “personal seals” or “stamps”; the terms seem to be used interchangeably among native speakers, so I would not be too concerned about which word to use when. Since many other articles discuss these, I won’t get into all the details and talk about all the different types of hanko and inkan, from personal use to bank use to “official registered with the city office” use, but if you are a foreigner living in Okinawa you may need to obtain a very basic bank seal since they are almost always required for opening up a bank account and other “official” business. I also personally use mine for all of my university documents; it is much easier than trying to sign in the tiny spaces provided on the forms. Plus it feel more “official” somehow when I bust out my hanko. It is also makes it easier when parcels are delivered to your house and need a signature.

So how and where do you get one?? Easy! There are several options: go to a hanko shop (like Hanko21), order online through a Japanese website, OR go to an easy-to-use hanko-carving “vending machine!”

As for me, going to the machine is the easiest, quickest, and cheapest! These machines are located in DonQuijote (“Donki”) and Tokyu Hands stores.

How do you use it?? Well, it actually is not too difficult though it is all in Japanese. That being said, the Tokyu Hands machine has an “English Guide” printed out. It is not the best but using this guide will help you through the process. It is actually fairly simple (just be patient!). I have used both machines (DonQ for my hanko, and Tokyu Hands for another foreign student’s hanko)… I think the Tokyu Hands machine is easier for foreigners to use, and has more options for customizing. The DonQ machine is more cookie-cutter with less options. Both machines are the same prices for hanko (see below).

You will have several options when making the hanko; you can use katakana, hiragana, or romaji-English characters (most foreign names don’t have kanji, but if you happen to have a Japanese or Chinese last name then you could use this option). I personally use katakana on my hanko, and I think this is usually what most banks prefer, so make sure you figure out how to spell your name in katakana before coming to the machine.

Next you can also choose to use both last and first name or just last name (I use just my last name). Keep in mind there is a limit to either 1 or 2 lines, with 4 characters per line maximum. You can also change the direction of reading (horizontal, vertical). I use mine in a 4 character box-shape, which also an option should you desire it, though depending on your name this may not be very possible. I think it looks interesting in that way.

From here you can change the font style, as well as thickness of the lines. One last option on the Tokyu Hands machine is you can even get a little picture design– just keep in mind this likely will not fly with banks, so if you are getting it for official purposes I would hold off. If it is only for personal reasons, then by all means get the kitty or flower design!

How much? The price for the smallest (10.5mm) generic hanko is 500yen. A slightly larger hanko (better for bank usage, 12, 13.5, or even 15 mm) is usually about 800-1500yen. Mine is only 12mm which was fine with my bank (and my husband’s is only 10.5mm which is also okay with our bank), though I see some people online saying you should go with 13.5-15mm. If in doubt, ask the bank you want to open an account with.

You have some different options on hanko material color (such as blue, pink, white, black, etc)… yes, mine is girly pink. You can even go use the fancier materials but the price increases accordingly, usually up to about 3000yen. If you want to use a lot of characters (or add the picture design), then the machine will also tell you that you need to purchase the larger size hanko. You can even add on a case, though personally I just went to the Daiso and bought a 100yen cheap plastic case (with ink pad built-in) from the stationary department. Obviously you can splurge on fancier cases.

Once you go through the steps of choosing your design, insert the money into the machine and hit the OK button. The machine takes as little to 5 to 30 minutes, depending on the seal size, to carve out your hanko, and voila, you are ready to go.

Hanko vending machine located across from the Tokyu Hands, in the SanA Mall in Ginowan.

Japanese foods, Restaurants

A Happy Pancake: 幸せパンケーキ

幸せパンケーキ shiawase pancake literally means “happy pancake”… it is the name of a very popular pancake chain started in Osaka (also with locations in Tokyo), known for their incredibly fluffy pancakes, keeping up the Japanese trending love for pancakes.

Very recently, they opened a cafe in Okinawa, on Senaga-jima 瀬長島 in the Umikaji Terrace ウミカジテラス (umikaji is Okinawan language for “ocean breeze”).

I figured if they are so popular, I must try them. Well… let me tell you, this place gets busy. After 2 failed attempts, I finally arrived 15 minutes before open and secured my name on the list (I was #4). Luckily, it also happened to be a gorgeous day, so eating pancakes overlooking the ocean with nice weather is pretty nice. The view is not so great to be quite frank since you are actually overlooking the airport and construction, but it is still technically an ocean view.

The pancakes were as delicious and fluffy as promised. The price of the pancake meals were not too bad, but it is not very cheap either. Although I enjoyed my smoothie I ordered, it was wayyy overpriced… so next time I would skip it.

 

Some tips for getting here, getting a seat, and getting food the quickest:

  • They take reservations on weekdays ONLY– so get one!
  • If you much prefer a weekend, then know that weekends are first come, first serve. So arrive at least ~15 minutes or so before opening (which is at 10am), go directly to the cafe and write your name down on the list. Then just walk around for a bit or sit and chill until they open!
  • If it is a nice day be sure to circle terrace seat when you put your name on the list テラス席. If you arrive late, and it is busy, then maybe you will choose to settle for inside or whatever is first available.
  • Parking: warning, it is a little crazy, as it is part of the hotel and shopping complex. There are clearly not enough spaces… so once you cross the bridge to the island turn left at the first turn (there is a sign in Japanese for Umikaji Terrace). Hopefully you will not need to resort to parking alongside the road, so continue up the road and you will see some poorly planned parking lots on either side of the road before you get to the actual buildings. Park anywhere here that is available. If you unfortunately pass these (or they are completely full)… well, then continue past the hotel and hope you get lucky (just be careful since there are hotel guest only lots, don’t park in these). You may have to make a loop around and come back.
  • Once you put your name on the list, check out the menu (in 4 languages, not to worry they are ready for everyone) and decide what you want! As soon as you are seated, you want to put in your order right away… it takes quite awhile to make and if there are lots of people who have ordered ahead of you… it could be an hour until you get food. And since you probably already had to wait just to get seats… you don’t want to wait much longer. So be ready to order before you even sit down!

address: https://goo.gl/maps/R6BVudmJBpq

Local Drinks, Shops

35 Coffee: Coffee that supports Coral Conservation

35 can be pronounced “san” (3) + “go” (5). サンゴ sango is also the word for “coral.” So 35 coffee is actually pronounced sango coffee (not thirty-five coffee); it is a brand of coffee in Okinawa that supports coral research and conservation, making it a very eco-friendly coffee! It is a decent brewed cup of coffee, at any rate.

You can get brewed cups from the 35 coffee stands (one is in front of DonQ on Kokusai-dori and some others are located in the monorail stations, and another in the Naha LCC airport terminal, and probably more, these are ones I can remember) or purchase beans from many stores (including DonQ, Aeon, and even the airport souvenir stands).

The coffee itself is made using coral fossils during the roasting. Obviously coffee beans  are imported since Okinawa is not a coffee producer.

The roasting method using the coral fossils is similar to a stone roasting method. The green coffee beans are roasted with coral fossils at 200 ℃ or higher for a long time to create a mild coffee.

It is normally banned to harvest corals according to the Okinawa Prefecture Fisheries Regulations, applicable to even the fossils of corals, which means only companies that have permission from the prefecture can collect them. The 35 Coffee company acquired a permit from Okinawa Prefecture to use weathered corals for the roasting process and to purchase them from authorized companies.

A portion of the profits received from the sales of the coffee go to the “Coral Reproduction Project.” So I think it is good to support the corals in the Okinawa ocean and try some 35 (sango) coffee when you get the chance. Corals globally are effected by increasing ocean temperatures and human industrialization, and numbers have been dwindling for several years now.  Thriving coral reefs play an important role in the balance of ocean eco-systems, and can even provide some protecting and mitigating effects on storm waves and tsunami to help protect human populations that live along coastlines.

IMG_9422

address of Kokusai-dori coffee stand: https://goo.gl/maps/mDUCvT4RK8q

Experiences, Shops

Cat Cafe: 猫カフェ

猫 neko: cat

ニャン nyan: meow

ニャンコ nyanko, or even ニャンちゃん nyan-chan: a somewhat childish or cute way to say cat, like kitty

カフェ kafe: cafe

Have you ever wanted to experience a Japanese cat cafe (neko cafe)?

Today I visited a neko cafe in Naha, not far from Kokusai-dori. The name of the cafe is にゃんそーれ “Nyan-so-re”, a playful version of “menso-re” めんそーれ which is Okinawan for “welcome.” An English cat version would be more sort of like “meow-so-re,” I guess if that makes sense.

Anyway when you enter, like many Japanese establishments, you remove you shoes and put them in the cubby, donning a pair of cute cat-themed slippers. There are also small lockers for your purse (back by the cashier, she will give you a key). The cafe is divided into 2 rooms: the first is the dining area, where you can watch the kitties through the glass while eating. The second is the area where you can play with the kitties.

They have different plans you can choose from, and not to fret… they have English translations, so even if the workers don’t really understand/speak English, you will not be lost here if you do not speak Japanese. The time rates for play-time start from 30 minutes (500 yen). They also have drinks, light meals, and desserts. You may have drinks in the kitty area, but eating is only outside the kitty room. When you are ready and have ordered what you would like, let the staff know when you are ready to play with some cats and they will give you a pass with the time your entered written on it. There will be a connecting area with a sink to wash up before and after playing with the cats.

Inside is the fun part… kitties everywhere! There are handouts with their names and pictures, tons of cat toys, manga and books (some cat-themed), air-conditioning, couches. Some of the cats will sleep and some will be social, and some may even be playful. It was a nice way to spend some time, since my husband is allergic to cats, and the price was pretty reasonable. I payed about 1200yen for my time and drinks/food there (30 minutes play time/iced tea with the kitties, then affogato while I watched and relaxed on the other side for almost another half hour).

They also have many, many cat-themed goods available for purchase. It was hard to resist…

Note: You may take picture of the cats, but no flash.

address for Neko cafe Nyanso-re 猫カフェにゃんそーれ:　 https://goo.gl/maps/JsWe8jgjqaH2

**There are 3 FREE parking spaces right next to the cafe!

Culture

A Secret Lookout Point in Nakagusuku (& Gosamaru’s Tomb)

Recently I went to a “secret” lookout point while wandering around to find Lord Gosamaru’s tomb. It is not really a secret, but it is not well-known. Probably because it is actually under construction and not all the way opened yet… ?!

To explain: I was headed to Gosamaru’s grave and I noticed on the map a place called 台グスク dai-gusuku. When I looked for information before heading out, it mostly seemed that nothing much was there anymore except for some vegetation-covered walls, which were just places of worship surrounded by stones, and if you stood along the edge, you could see over the town and to the ocean. All of the pictures showed a simple narrow path and some overgrown grasses. It was perhaps part of the Nakagusku-jo residence in some capacity back in the Ryukyu Kingdom era; possibly as temporary quarters for Lord Gosamaru until he moved into Nakasuguku-jo from Zakimi-jo or maybe where his brother lived, no one is certain from the information I gathered from some Japanese websites.

So, as I ascended the hill from after visiting Gosamaru’s tomb (just around the corner), I decided to take the small path that led to this mystery place. It is closed off to cars as there is a chain across the path to block cars, but it is easy to walk around and there are no signs saying “entrance prohibited” 「入場禁止」 as it is a public walking path.  I walked along the worn-down path for a bit, until I saw a brand new structure… a ramp, some stairs, all leading to an observation platform! This was indeed a surprise. The bottom ramp was taped off (I assume because the side railings were not installed in some areas), so I didn’t push my luck and enter it. Instead I kept walking along the path that was parallel to the ramp and stairs. At the top of the path, there was a clearing and you could overlook the town… I could see over towards my house! Since there was no tape blocking off the very top platform, I went ahead and took a peek standing on the new platform, since the view was a little bit better with the extra few feet in height. Amazing! What a view, and well worth the short walk.

Hopefully they “officially” open this viewing platform soon. The structure looked almost complete and was structurally sound (just use common sense). It is fine to enter the path and walk up to the observation area since it is public. However, please be considerate and quiet because there are family graves close by– we walked by 2 families cleaning the graves in the area just next to the path up.
**UPDATE: it is not opened yet, but they have paved the path walking up to it and most of the construction looks pretty complete. I expect this will be officially opened soon!

If you for some reason are interested in Ryukyu history, you can also walk to Gosamaru’s tomb 護佐丸の墓 which is a little further down from the main road. It is actually right below you when you stand on dai-gusuku, but you need to go back out to the road, around the corner, and there is a path with some stairs leading up. Gosamaru chose a pretty nice spot for his tomb. Overall, it is not a terribly interesting historical site, but I figured as a town resident I ought to see it at least once.

Instructions: park at Nakagusuku-jo (castle ruins): https://goo.gl/maps/z2h7nN8gR1B2
then walk to here: https://goo.gl/maps/3H76M5M26rx

Gosamaru’s Tomb, entrance here: https://goo.gl/maps/r7oY858hcek

Culture

Mori-shio: A Pile of Salt

The other day, I visited a Japanese soba restaurant. Before I walked in, I noticed something. A pile of salt. This is called “mori shio” (or also seen as “morijio”) 盛り塩 (literally, “mori” is pile, and “shio” is salt). Not so typical here in Okinawa, though perhaps much more common to see in mainland Japan. Salt is used in plenty of rituals here in Okinawa as well as placed at the hinukan, but by the front of a business it is not a very common site.

There were 2 dishes, each with a neat little white mound of salt, on either side of the entrance to restaurant.

So why was it here? This is a practice still common today in Japan, leaving little cone shaped mounds of salt on small dishes set on the ground by the threshold of a restaurant, shop, or other business (or even a residence). This means the place has been purified/cleansed and it is hoped to attract customers.

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Culture

Nishihara Village Wartime Underground Shelter & Nishihara War Memorial Tower

Today, on a more solemn topic, I will introduce 2 sites I happened to pass by today in Nishihara-cho. Both sites are within a very short walking distance of each other. Park at the very small and narrow lot in front of the second site next to the Nishihara town office.

The first site is at the intersection just a few meters of town office. It is the Nishihara Village Wartime Underground Shelter 旧西原村役場壕跡, which has become a town cultural property. The underground shelter is a manmade limestone cave. While you cannot enter it, you can peek inside and see most of it.

There is a sign explaining in English. Briefly I will describe (or just read the photo below): In June of 1944 the war situation became increasingly severe, so Nishihara Village Hall local residents to dig an underground air-raid shelter. Inside, a 1-ton safe was kept to store important documents such as family registry, land register, public money, official seals, cash register, wartime bonds etc. It is one of the few artifacts left from the war and a reminder of the tragedy of war.

address: https://goo.gl/maps/W2rm2BKH2r42

The second site (this is the site you should park in front of!) is on the other side of the town office, the Nishihara Tower 西原の塔. This is a war memorial tower. It is also called 忠魂碑 Chuukonhi, a memorial monument for those that died in battle.

The tower was originally built as a dedication to those that died during WWI, “the Chinese Incident” (Second Sino-Japanese War), and the Russo-Japanese war.

It was destroyed in Battle of Okinawa (like most other things). After reconstruction, a pillar of remembrance was added for those that died during WWII and the Battle of Okinawa. Every October, a service is held to pray for peace and to pray for the deceased.

You will likely see origami cranes held together by strings, called senbazuru” 千羽鶴 which means 1000 cranes in Japanese. These are a symbol for hope and healing; . Common site at war memorials.

There are various pillars, monuments, walls with the names (and ages) of the many residents who died during these tragic times. About half of the village residents died in the Battle of Okinawa. There are also some images of bodhisattva, and some dedications to various infantry, battalions, etc.

address (park your car here!): https://goo.gl/maps/5mcX3DAgkG72

 

 

Culture

Kunigami Historical Hiking Path: 国頭方西海道

石畳道 ishidatami michi: stone path

歴史の道 (rekishi no michi): path of history, historical path

Another “Path of History?!” Yes, another historical path from the Ryukyuan era, this time located in Kunigami 国頭 district (northern part of the main island). It is part of the original National road that used to connect Shuri-jo to the northern part of the island, built sometime around the fifteenth century.

The name of this one is Kunigami-hou seikaidou 国頭方西海道 meaning something like Kunigami west ocean road.

To walk this path, a good starting point is the Onna Village Museum, since there is decent parking. There is a map post here that shows the route. You notice there is some path and sites further up at Nakadomari 仲泊 milestone, but we skipped that portion for today and only went from just before the “You are here” (by the Nakadomari ruins) to #6 Yamada stone bridge. We will save the rest of the hike for another day:

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As you start walking from the Onna museum, there is an interesting restaurant called 田芋 Taimo (or Taamu/Taanmu in Okinawan). There is a Spiderman statue out front, but it just serves local Okinawan food.

First, you will come to the stone path: 比屋根坂の石畳道  Hiyagon-bira ishidatami michi (“bira” means “slope”, “ishidatami michi” is “stone path”). It is a steep climb up, but you will be rewarded with some views. Next you descend and pop out by Rt. 6.

Now you walk along Rt. 6 for a bit (with all that traffic) until just past the Renaissance Resort where the stone path picks back up again. It will be obvious and there will be signs, so don’t try to turn down any unmarked paths.

From here, you will head (mostly upwards again!) to 山田谷川の石矼 Yamada Yaagaa Ishibashi (ishibashi is “stone bridge”) made from Ryukyu limestone; the bridge was restored some years ago. *Note 谷川 in Okinawan is pronounced “yaagaa” instead of “sakugawa” or “tanigawa,” and unfortunately the “official” map posted has this incorrect after re-checking with some reliable sources regarding this Ryukyuan path and historical properties, as well as the signs actually at the bridge! Anyway, this bridge is an example of Ryukyuan engineering. There was a small stream and plenty of foliage (so you know, bug spray!). At this point we turned around before it got dark out since this was an early evening walk.

This time around we did not make it up to Yamada gusuku 山田グスク, residence for Lord Gosamaru’s ancestors, or the further stops by some more ruins, the tomb of Gosamaru’s ancestors, and a few more historical properties. We will save it for next time and update this post.

pictures: https://imgur.com/a/2Zfxp

addresses for path we walked:

Onna Museum (with parking): https://goo.gl/maps/dEAYS8ZKSQ32

Yamada Yaagaa stone bridge (from my understanding you cannot access this from the road it claims you can on google, so be careful, this is only for walking purposes): https://goo.gl/maps/v5SzTH6WYyn

Yamada gusuku ruins: https://goo.gl/maps/pubANL3zBmS2

Japanese brochure for path (I think you can pick one of these up inside the Onna Museum): http://www.onna-culture.jp/common/download/kaido-brochure.pdf

 

Culture

Gusuku (Castle) Ruins

グスク (katakana) or 城 (kanji): “gusuku” is the Okinawan word for “castle,” rather than the more conventional Japanese pronunciation of “shiro” (by itself, or used in family names) or “-jo” (used with the name of the castle, such as Shuri-jo).

Major Gusuku Sites: These are the major sites, the ones that are UNESCO world heritage sites. These are not to be missed when you visit Okinawa. In addition there are some other UNESCO related sites in Okinawa, which I will save for another post.

Shuri-jo, reconstructed: This is the main castle site as it is the only one that is completely reconstructed, so this is a must-see for everyone. There is a large free area to walk around, but inside where they have artifacts displayed you must pay admission (adults 820yen). Parking is not free in this area, and can occasionally be difficult; I usually park in the lot in front by the lake and the art school. There are also several great events hosted here throughout the year, and often they will have traditional music and dance performances.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/oWMe5amhNvs

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Shuri-jo at Night

Nakagusuku-jo, partially reconstructed: There is an entrance fee (adults 400yen). There is plenty of free parking. Amazing views. There are often events held here during the year. Since this gusuku is closest to me, I come here often (and sometimes I walk from my house to here).
address: https://goo.gl/maps/KPRVTYN8Tv22

Katsuren-jo, partially reconstructed: Free entrance and plenty of parking. The views here are also spectacular on a clear day.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/ixUqbBEEhx22

 

Zakimi-jo, partially reconstructed: Free admission. Views during the day are okay, sunset would be ideal.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/hxVp8zQrmo22

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Nakijin-jo, partially reconstructed: Entrance fee (adults 400yen), there is not much in the closest parking area so you may have to walk on a busy day. Some good views and a very popular spot for sakura-viewing (hanami).
address: https://goo.gl/maps/6um9BbAWVVJ2

 

*Places with entrance fees have reduced rates for children, seniors, and groups.

Minor Gusuku Sites: I cannot actually list all these, as there are a lot of these former gusuku sites (and many really have nothing to see, just an empty field). I will try to list the ones that at least have something “nice” to see and worth a visit if you have a lot of time in Okinawa. Many of these sites are just partial stone walls, small shrines or worship areas, etc. Also since minor gusuku sites are not as much maintained, they are all free and generally very quiet.

South

Gushikawa (in Itoman): Nice spot at the very southern area of the main island.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/L58Gj7aBrLs

Tamagusuku: There are some walls remaining, but this is actually a nice site with some picturesque elements.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/hLYHxjjt9jJ2

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Chinen: Again, some walls remaining. Okay spot to stop at if you are in the area.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/4DFN3yuN8zJ2

Itokazu: Walls remaining, a nice stop down south.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/XLv1yeNabT72

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Ozato: Small, but again, good views.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/yL3UGw3xsD72

Middle

Urasoe: Also near “Hacksaw Ridge,” Battle of Okinawa site. This site also is nearby MANY other important Ryukyu area historical sites, so be sure to explore! I am meaning to make a post about the historical trail in the area…
address: https://goo.gl/maps/gGhKUHwPGLD2

Goeku: Discussed a bit in another post; not much to see though.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/XXa2QqvPQu52

Chibana: Not much to see here, and in a bit of disrepair. But there are some structures to see…
address: https://goo.gl/maps/y8w4mxKL4cu

North

Agena: Some interesting things to explore.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/Sp1NedUkzAp

Iha: Not too much of interest, but there are some structures.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/UWzYcp6Qccq

Yamada (in Onna): I finally made it here, but there is honestly not much to see as far as castle ruins… the trail and surrounding area however is great!
address: https://goo.gl/maps/Xo1iZDN4zhv

Nago: Interesting park to walk around. Also a popular sakura-viewing spot.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/x6tBFcuBuEJ2

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**I will add more pictures soon!

 

Restaurants

Cafe Waka-Waka

クレープ kureh-pu: crepe (crêpe)

So I fully realize that crepes are, in fact, originally a French food. However, crepes are wildly popular as a street food in Japan (especially among ladies) and somehow, Japan has adopted them and given them their own style. Japanese crepes are quite different than crepes I have eaten elsewhere so they might surprise you; they use almost no butter (if any) and the fillings are not cooked (just rolled and stuffed in). When it is served, it generally looks like an ice cream cone.

The weather is starting to turn nice recently and work is still quiet since school is not back into full swing yet, so I took the opportunity to sneak out and get an afternoon snack.

I went to a little known place called Cafe Waka-waka located in a back neighborhood of Nishihara town. There are only 2-3 cramped parking spaces, but luckily I was able to park.

On the outside it doesn’t look like much, but when you enter… it is quite a cute and trendy cafe. It was quiet, with only 1 other group of girls eating there. At the counter, I ordered a crepe (it was called mango “cheese”), paid, and waited at one of the tables for a few minutes until it came out. The menu consisted of sweet crepes, savory crepes, and cafe drinks… it is even sort of a little in “English,” though some of it might not make much sense unless you can read the katakana below it, or are a really experienced Engrish-reader.

It was really good, packed full with vanilla ice cream, mango chunks and sauce, sweet cream cheese (but not like the kind you spread on bagels, instead more like rare cheesecake), and cinnamon sprinkled on top. The price was 470yen, which ordinarily is near my limit of how much I like to spend on dessert snacks, but compared to places in the mall which charge over 500yen for crepes, I thought this was a very good deal and I left satisfied. So if you are near Nishihara town and craving a Japanese-style crepe, I recommend checking out this local cafe.

address: https://goo.gl/maps/sEAVh23Y3Yz

Culture

Sangwa, a type of Okinawa talisman: サングァー

サングァー (kanji: 魔除け) sangwa, or sangwaa

Sangwa is an Okinawan protection amulet or talisman, like a type of omamori お守り, that is made from susuki leaves in a cross-shape. It is a charm to protect offerings, food, and children from majimun マジムン (evil spirits). Sometimes they are put on houses or in lunch boxes (bento 弁当).

The pizza company Pizza Paruko パルコ has this symbol on their takeout pizza box. Be sure to look for it!

You can also purchase small keychains made of leather or other materials in the shape of sangwa at some of the small local shops.

You may also see something like this during certain times of year, such as 8th Lunar month in Okinawa: ハチグヮチ (八月) or other celebrations where talismans are used.

 

Japanese foods

Gluten-free Okinawa

グルテンフリー: gluten-free

I am personally not gluten-free, so I don’t really know all the “ins-and-outs,” but I can give a little help in finding some gluten-free and wheat-free items in Okinawa.

This can be difficult because I don’t think gluten-free is really a thing in Japan. But luckily, in SanA there is the “special dietary” section, and you can find a few items here… some are even labelled in English (!!). This is in the same section as the soy-free section I posted about awhile back. In some other stores, the items might be spread around and you have to look a little harder for the key words and ingredients.

As for items like shoyu and miso, wheat is often used so you have to look carefully and clearly for the no-wheat label, and check the ingredients. Luckily wheat is one of the 7 REQUIRED food allergy labels in Japan, so at least it is easy to identify if there is wheat or not in the ingredients! On the back of the product there is an allergy section, and if the product contains wheat it will be highlighted clearly. Gluten-free miso and shoyu are not usually in the special dietary section, so you may need to check the regular shoyu and miso aisles.

Rice flour and rice noodles (as well as some other types like konnyaku noodles, aka shirataki) are easy to find in most supermarkets, so gluten-free living in Okinawa should not be too much of a challenge.

gluten ingredients in Japanese:
小麦: wheat
大麦: barley
ライ麦: rye
バルガー: bulgar
蕎麦: buckwheat
麦芽: malt
水飴: starch syrup

phrases to look for:
グルテン入ってない: no gluten
小麦不使用: no wheat (or more literally wheat non-use)
＿＿＿不使用: no ______

The “okay” ingredients:
米: rice
大豆: soybean
こんにゃく: konnyaku (konjac)

Hopefully this gives a start as to what to look for in the grocery stores if you are looking for a gluten-free diet or a diet with wheat allergies, but this is NOT a comprehensive guide. If you would like to more know words to look for on packages or know of any I missed, just add a comment and I will update the post with more information. Depending on the degree of the gluten or wheat allergy, you may want to consider getting one of the translated restaurant allergy cards for when you would like to eat locally, especially since gluten-free and gluten allergies are relatively unknown to most Japanese.