In Nakagusuku village there is a small shop called Nakatomi Kashi-ten なかとみ菓子店 (Nakatomi sweets shop) that specializes in taimo pie. You can often find them selling their small fried pies at food events on the island or visit their shop.
The shop is on a small road off of Rt. 29 in Nakagusuku; at the turn their are purplish colored flags with the words 田いもパイ on them. Following the small signs down the road you will end up at their small shop where you can purchase the pies. Sometimes they have some seasonal sweets as well, but mostly it is just the taimo pies which are 100yen each.
The pies have a crispy fried outside and are stuffed with taimo filling. Very delicious. I recommend taking them home and reheating them, maybe adding a side of ice cream. This is one of the many unique sweets you can find in Okinawa!
Recently as I was browsing the bookstore, I came across a magazine that explained various Japanese “ways of life” for foreigners. Of course, the magazine was in Japanese, so I question exactly who this magazine was aimed at (after all, if you already speak Japanese, you are probably fairly aware of many aspects of the culture already). But anyway, I did see an interesting short article and chart explaining Bull-Dog sauce.
Now I am pretty familiar with the Bull-Dog brand sauce (as well as the various spin-off brands) and have long used it prior to moving to Japan. But what I found most interesting was the star chart that evaluated the characteristics for 6 different types of Bull-Dog brand sauces; sweetness, fruitiness, sourness, spice, and viscosity. After all, if you are new to Japan, and hear about this Bull-Dog sauce or maybe you had some at a restaurant and now you want to buy some for home, how do you choose which one to buy when you see these different sauces that all look basically the same?
First, let us start with what is this sauce? “Sauce” ソース in Japan refers to a thick brown, slightly sweet and fruity sauce with a bit of spice, somewhat similar to Worcestershire sauce but developed for Japanese tastes. A quote from the Bull-Dog sauce English webpage:
“The primary ingredients in Japanese sauce are vegetables and fruits, to which vinegar and many spices are blended. This had the effect of deepening the richness and increasing the appetite. Japanese tonkatsu sauce uses a lot of vegetables and fruits like tomatoes and apples, which make it a highly viscous sauce well suited for deep-fried foods, without getting them greasy or soggy.”
Okay, sounds good~~ but…
What is it used for? Well, almost anything, from tonkatsu to okonomiyaki to hamburg steak to stir-fries! It is kinda like the Japanese version of barbecue sauce or steak sauce. Admittedly, I always have at least one (if not more) of these Bull-Dog sauces in my fridge at any given time since it is so versatile and tasty.
#4 贅沢ブレンド 中濃 luxury blend chuunou: sweetness 6, sourness 8, viscosity 5, fruitiness 8, spice 10. With 24 types of herbs and spices, with a refreshing taste.
#5 うま uma: sweetness 8, sourness 7, viscosity 4, fruitiness 7, spice 6. Made more to Japanese-style tastes, with konbu (kelp) and katsuo-dashi (fish broth), garlic and goma (sesame).
#6 スーパープレミアム極 super premium: sweetness 8, sourness 8, viscosity 3, fruitiness 9, spice 9. This is the super premium version of the original “worcestershire” sauce. Balanced and smooth, one of the more versatile of the Bull-Dog sauces.
Of course, there are some more sauces that are not on this chart, but hopefully this can get your started into the world of choosing the best BullDog sauce for you!
Other sauces you may see are the original “worcestershire” ウスター (this is not really the same as English worcestershire sauce), organic versions of the above mentioned sauces, and even specific takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and yakisoba sauces! And this is just the Bull-Dog brand… !
For those who would like to delve even deeper into the world of Japanese brown sauce there is an interesting and funny blog post by someone who ate a lot of tonkatsu with different brands of “sauces” and gave them ratings (this was in our beautiful home Hawai’i). Intense, but you will learn a lot! http://tastyislandhawaii.com/2009/12/07/the-great-tonkatsu-sauce-shootout/
Hanko and inkan are “personal seals” or “stamps”; the terms seem to be used interchangeably among native speakers, so I would not be too concerned about which word to use when. Since many other articles discuss these, I won’t get into all the details and talk about all the different types of hanko and inkan, from personal use to bank use to “official registered with the city office” use, but if you are a foreigner living in Okinawa you may need to obtain a very basic bank seal since they are almost always required for opening up a bank account and other “official” business. I also personally use mine for all of my university documents; it is much easier than trying to sign in the tiny spaces provided on the forms. Plus it feel more “official” somehow when I bust out my hanko. It is also makes it easier when parcels are delivered to your house and need a signature.
So how and where do you get one?? Easy! There are several options: go to a hanko shop (like Hanko21), order online through a Japanese website, OR go to an easy-to-use hanko-carving “vending machine!”
As for me, going to the machine is the easiest, quickest, and cheapest! These machines are located in DonQuijote (“Donki”) and Tokyu Hands stores.
How do you use it?? Well, it actually is not too difficult though it is all in Japanese. That being said, the Tokyu Hands machine has an “English Guide” printed out. It is not the best but using this guide will help you through the process. It is actually fairly simple (just be patient!). I have used both machines (DonQ for my hanko, and Tokyu Hands for another foreign student’s hanko)… I think the Tokyu Hands machine is easier for foreigners to use, and has more options for customizing. The DonQ machine is more cookie-cutter with less options. Both machines are the same prices for hanko (see below).
You will have several options when making the hanko; you can use katakana, hiragana, or romaji-English characters (most foreign names don’t have kanji, but if you happen to have a Japanese or Chinese last name then you could use this option). I personally use katakana on my hanko, and I think this is usually what most banks prefer, so make sure you figure out how to spell your name in katakana before coming to the machine.
Next you can also choose to use both last and first name or just last name (I use just my last name). Keep in mind there is a limit to either 1 or 2 lines, with 4 characters per line maximum. You can also change the direction of reading (horizontal, vertical). I use mine in a 4 character box-shape, which also an option should you desire it, though depending on your name this may not be very possible. I think it looks interesting in that way.
From here you can change the font style, as well as thickness of the lines. One last option on the Tokyu Hands machine is you can even get a little picture design– just keep in mind this likely will not fly with banks, so if you are getting it for official purposes I would hold off. If it is only for personal reasons, then by all means get the kitty or flower design!
How much? The price for the smallest (10.5mm) generic hanko is 500yen. A slightly larger hanko (better for bank usage, 12, 13.5, or even 15 mm) is usually about 800-1500yen. Mine is only 12mm which was fine with my bank (and my husband’s is only 10.5mm which is also okay with our bank), though I see some people online saying you should go with 13.5-15mm. If in doubt, ask the bank you want to open an account with.
You have some different options on hanko material color (such as blue, pink, white, black, etc)… yes, mine is girly pink. You can even go use the fancier materials but the price increases accordingly, usually up to about 3000yen. If you want to use a lot of characters (or add the picture design), then the machine will also tell you that you need to purchase the larger size hanko. You can even add on a case, though personally I just went to the Daiso and bought a 100yen cheap plastic case (with ink pad built-in) from the stationary department. Obviously you can splurge on fancier cases.
Once you go through the steps of choosing your design, insert the money into the machine and hit the OK button. The machine takes as little to 5 to 30 minutes, depending on the seal size, to carve out your hanko, and voila, you are ready to go.
Hanko vending machine located across from the Tokyu Hands, in the SanA Mall in Ginowan.
幸せパンケーキ shiawase pancake literally means “happy pancake”… it is the name of a very popular pancake chain started in Osaka (also with locations in Tokyo), known for their incredibly fluffy pancakes, keeping up the Japanese trending love for pancakes.
Very recently, they opened a cafe in Okinawa, on Senaga-jima 瀬長島 in the Umikaji Terrace ウミカジテラス (umikaji is Okinawan language for “ocean breeze”).
I figured if they are so popular, I must try them. Well… let me tell you, this place gets busy. After 2 failed attempts, I finally arrived 15 minutes before open and secured my name on the list (I was #4). Luckily, it also happened to be a gorgeous day, so eating pancakes overlooking the ocean with nice weather is pretty nice. The view is not so great to be quite frank since you are actually overlooking the airport and construction, but it is still technically an ocean view.
The pancakes were as delicious and fluffy as promised. The price of the pancake meals were not too bad, but it is not very cheap either. Although I enjoyed my smoothie I ordered, it was wayyy overpriced… so next time I would skip it.
Some tips for getting here, getting a seat, and getting food the quickest:
They take reservations on weekdays ONLY– so get one!
If you much prefer a weekend, then know that weekends are first come, first serve. So arrive at least ~15 minutes or so before opening (which is at 10am), go directly to the cafe and write your name down on the list. Then just walk around for a bit or sit and chill until they open!
If it is a nice day be sure to circle terrace seat when you put your name on the list テラス席. If you arrive late, and it is busy, then maybe you will choose to settle for inside or whatever is first available.
Parking: warning, it is a little crazy, as it is part of the hotel and shopping complex. There are clearly not enough spaces… so once you cross the bridge to the island turn left at the first turn (there is a sign in Japanese for Umikaji Terrace). Hopefully you will not need to resort to parking alongside the road, so continue up the road and you will see some poorly planned parking lots on either side of the road before you get to the actual buildings. Park anywhere here that is available. If you unfortunately pass these (or they are completely full)… well, then continue past the hotel and hope you get lucky (just be careful since there are hotel guest only lots, don’t park in these). You may have to make a loop around and come back.
Once you put your name on the list, check out the menu (in 4 languages, not to worry they are ready for everyone) and decide what you want! As soon as you are seated, you want to put in your order right away… it takes quite awhile to make and if there are lots of people who have ordered ahead of you… it could be an hour until you get food. And since you probably already had to wait just to get seats… you don’t want to wait much longer. So be ready to order before you even sit down!
35 can be pronounced “san” (3) + “go” (5). サンゴ sango is also the word for “coral.” So 35 coffee is actually pronounced sango coffee (not thirty-five coffee); it is a brand of coffee in Okinawa that supports coral research and conservation, making it a very eco-friendly coffee! It is a decent brewed cup of coffee, at any rate.
You can get brewed cups from the 35 coffee stands (one is in front of DonQ on Kokusai-dori and some others are located in the monorail stations, and another in the Naha LCC airport terminal, and probably more, these are ones I can remember) or purchase beans from many stores (including DonQ, Aeon, and even the airport souvenir stands).
The coffee itself is made using coral fossils during the roasting. Obviously coffee beans are imported since Okinawa is not a coffee producer.
The roasting method using the coral fossils is similar to a stone roasting method. The green coffee beans are roasted with coral fossils at 200 ℃ or higher for a long time to create a mild coffee.
It is normally banned to harvest corals according to the Okinawa Prefecture Fisheries Regulations, applicable to even the fossils of corals, which means only companies that have permission from the prefecture can collect them. The 35 Coffee company acquired a permit from Okinawa Prefecture to use weathered corals for the roasting process and to purchase them from authorized companies.
A portion of the profits received from the sales of the coffee go to the “Coral Reproduction Project.” So I think it is good to support the corals in the Okinawa ocean and try some 35 (sango) coffee when you get the chance. Corals globally are effected by increasing ocean temperatures and human industrialization, and numbers have been dwindling for several years now. Thriving coral reefs play an important role in the balance of ocean eco-systems, and can even provide some protecting and mitigating effects on storm waves and tsunami to help protect human populations that live along coastlines.
ニャンコ nyanko, or even ニャンちゃん nyan-chan: a somewhat childish or cute way to say cat, like kitty
カフェ kafe: cafe
Have you ever wanted to experience a Japanese cat cafe (neko cafe)?
Today I visited a neko cafe in Naha, not far from Kokusai-dori. The name of the cafe is にゃんそーれ “Nyan-so-re”, a playful version of “menso-re” めんそーれ which is Okinawan for “welcome.” An English cat version would be more sort of like “meow-so-re,” I guess if that makes sense.
Anyway when you enter, like many Japanese establishments, you remove you shoes and put them in the cubby, donning a pair of cute cat-themed slippers. There are also small lockers for your purse (back by the cashier, she will give you a key). The cafe is divided into 2 rooms: the first is the dining area, where you can watch the kitties through the glass while eating. The second is the area where you can play with the kitties.
They have different plans you can choose from, and not to fret… they have English translations, so even if the workers don’t really understand/speak English, you will not be lost here if you do not speak Japanese. The time rates for play-time start from 30 minutes (500 yen). They also have drinks, light meals, and desserts. You may have drinks in the kitty area, but eating is only outside the kitty room. When you are ready and have ordered what you would like, let the staff know when you are ready to play with some cats and they will give you a pass with the time your entered written on it. There will be a connecting area with a sink to wash up before and after playing with the cats.
Inside is the fun part… kitties everywhere! There are handouts with their names and pictures, tons of cat toys, manga and books (some cat-themed), air-conditioning, couches. Some of the cats will sleep and some will be social, and some may even be playful. It was a nice way to spend some time, since my husband is allergic to cats, and the price was pretty reasonable. I payed about 1200yen for my time and drinks/food there (30 minutes play time/iced tea with the kitties, then affogato while I watched and relaxed on the other side for almost another half hour).
They also have many, many cat-themed goods available for purchase. It was hard to resist…
Note: You may take picture of the cats, but no flash.
Recently I went to a “secret” lookout point while wandering around to find Lord Gosamaru’s tomb. It is not really a secret, but it is not well-known. Probably because it is actually under construction and not all the way opened yet… ?!
To explain: I was headed to Gosamaru’s grave and I noticed on the map a place called 台グスク dai-gusuku. When I looked for information before heading out, it mostly seemed that nothing much was there anymore except for some vegetation-covered walls, which were just places of worship surrounded by stones, and if you stood along the edge, you could see over the town and to the ocean. All of the pictures showed a simple narrow path and some overgrown grasses. It was perhaps part of the Nakagusku-jo residence in some capacity back in the Ryukyu Kingdom era; possibly as temporary quarters for Lord Gosamaru until he moved into Nakasuguku-jo from Zakimi-jo or maybe where his brother lived, no one is certain from the information I gathered from some Japanese websites.
So, as I ascended the hill from after visiting Gosamaru’s tomb (just around the corner), I decided to take the small path that led to this mystery place. It is closed off to cars as there is a chain across the path to block cars, but it is easy to walk around and there are no signs saying “entrance prohibited” 「入場禁止」 as it is a public walking path. I walked along the worn-down path for a bit, until I saw a brand new structure… a ramp, some stairs, all leading to an observation platform! This was indeed a surprise. The bottom ramp was taped off (I assume because the side railings were not installed in some areas), so I didn’t push my luck and enter it. Instead I kept walking along the path that was parallel to the ramp and stairs. At the top of the path, there was a clearing and you could overlook the town… I could see over towards my house! Since there was no tape blocking off the very top platform, I went ahead and took a peek standing on the new platform, since the view was a little bit better with the extra few feet in height. Amazing! What a view, and well worth the short walk.
Hopefully they “officially” open this viewing platform soon. The structure looked almost complete and was structurally sound (just use common sense). It is fine to enter the path and walk up to the observation area since it is public. However, please be considerate and quiet because there are family graves close by– we walked by 2 families cleaning the graves in the area just next to the path up.
**UPDATE: it is not opened yet, but they have paved the path walking up to it and most of the construction looks pretty complete. I expect this will be officially opened soon!
If you for some reason are interested in Ryukyu history, you can also walk to Gosamaru’s tomb 護佐丸の墓 which is a little further down from the main road. It is actually right below you when you stand on dai-gusuku, but you need to go back out to the road, around the corner, and there is a path with some stairs leading up. Gosamaru chose a pretty nice spot for his tomb. Overall, it is not a terribly interesting historical site, but I figured as a town resident I ought to see it at least once.
The other day, I visited a Japanese soba restaurant. Before I walked in, I noticed something. A pile of salt. This is called “mori shio” (or also seen as “morijio”) 盛り塩 (literally, “mori” is pile, and “shio” is salt). Not so typical here in Okinawa, though perhaps much more common to see in mainland Japan. Salt is used in plenty of rituals here in Okinawa as well as placed at the hinukan, but by the front of a business it is not a very common site.
There were 2 dishes, each with a neat little white mound of salt, on either side of the entrance to restaurant.
So why was it here? This is a practice still common today in Japan, leaving little cone shaped mounds of salt on small dishes set on the ground by the threshold of a restaurant, shop, or other business (or even a residence). This means the place has been purified/cleansed and it is hoped to attract customers.
Today, on a more solemn topic, I will introduce 2 sites I happened to pass by today in Nishihara-cho. Both sites are within a very short walking distance of each other. Park at the very small and narrow lot in front of the second site next to the Nishihara town office.
The first site is at the intersection just a few meters of town office. It is the Nishihara Village Wartime Underground Shelter 旧西原村役場壕跡, which has become a town cultural property. The underground shelter is a manmade limestone cave. While you cannot enter it, you can peek inside and see most of it.
There is a sign explaining in English. Briefly I will describe (or just read the photo below): In June of 1944 the war situation became increasingly severe, so Nishihara Village Hall local residents to dig an underground air-raid shelter. Inside, a 1-ton safe was kept to store important documents such as family registry, land register, public money, official seals, cash register, wartime bonds etc. It is one of the few artifacts left from the war and a reminder of the tragedy of war.
The second site (this is the site you should park in front of!) is on the other side of the town office, the Nishihara Tower 西原の塔. This is a war memorial tower. It is also called 忠魂碑 Chuukonhi, a memorial monument for those that died in battle.
The tower was originally built as a dedication to those that died during WWI, “the Chinese Incident” (Second Sino-Japanese War), and the Russo-Japanese war.
It was destroyed in Battle of Okinawa (like most other things). After reconstruction, a pillar of remembrance was added for those that died during WWII and the Battle of Okinawa. Every October, a service is held to pray for peace and to pray for the deceased.
You will likely see origami cranes held together by strings, called senbazuru” 千羽鶴 which means 1000 cranes in Japanese. These are a symbol for hope and healing; . Common site at war memorials.
There are various pillars, monuments, walls with the names (and ages) of the many residents who died during these tragic times. About half of the village residents died in the Battle of Okinawa. There are also some images of bodhisattva, and some dedications to various infantry, battalions, etc.
歴史の道 (rekishi no michi): path of history, historical path
Another “Path of History?!” Yes, another historical path from the Ryukyuan era, this time located in Kunigami 国頭 district (northern part of the main island). It is part of the original National road that used to connect Shuri-jo to the northern part of the island, built sometime around the fifteenth century.
The name of this one is Kunigami-hou seikaidou 国頭方西海道 meaning something like Kunigami west ocean road.
To walk this path, a good starting point is the Onna Village Museum, since there is decent parking. There is a map post here that shows the route. You notice there is some path and sites further up at Nakadomari 仲泊 milestone, but we skipped that portion for today and only went from just before the “You are here” (by the Nakadomari ruins) to #6 Yamada stone bridge. We will save the rest of the hike for another day:
As you start walking from the Onna museum, there is an interesting restaurant called 田芋 Taimo (or Taamu/Taanmu in Okinawan). There is a Spiderman statue out front, but it just serves local Okinawan food.
First, you will come to the stone path: 比屋根坂の石畳道 Hiyagon-bira ishidatami michi (“bira” means “slope”, “ishidatami michi” is “stone path”). It is a steep climb up, but you will be rewarded with some views. Next you descend and pop out by Rt. 6.
Now you walk along Rt. 6 for a bit (with all that traffic) until just past the Renaissance Resort where the stone path picks back up again. It will be obvious and there will be signs, so don’t try to turn down any unmarked paths.
From here, you will head (mostly upwards again!) to 山田谷川の石矼 Yamada Yaagaa Ishibashi (ishibashi is “stone bridge”) made from Ryukyu limestone; the bridge was restored some years ago. *Note 谷川 in Okinawan is pronounced “yaagaa” instead of “sakugawa” or “tanigawa,” and unfortunately the “official” map posted has this incorrect after re-checking with some reliable sources regarding this Ryukyuan path and historical properties, as well as the signs actually at the bridge! Anyway, this bridge is an example of Ryukyuan engineering. There was a small stream and plenty of foliage (so you know, bug spray!). At this point we turned around before it got dark out since this was an early evening walk.
This time around we did not make it up to Yamada gusuku 山田グスク, residence for Lord Gosamaru’s ancestors, or the further stops by some more ruins, the tomb of Gosamaru’s ancestors, and a few more historical properties. We will save it for next time and update this post.
Yamada Yaagaa stone bridge (from my understanding you cannot access this from the road it claims you can on google, so be careful, this is only for walking purposes): https://goo.gl/maps/v5SzTH6WYyn
グスク (katakana) or 城 (kanji): “gusuku” is the Okinawan word for “castle,” rather than the more conventional Japanese pronunciation of “shiro” (by itself, or used in family names) or “-jo” (used with the name of the castle, such as Shuri-jo).
Major Gusuku Sites: These are the major sites, the ones that are UNESCO world heritage sites. These are not to be missed when you visit Okinawa. In addition there are some other UNESCO related sites in Okinawa, which I will save for another post.
Shuri-jo, reconstructed: This is the main castle site as it is the only one that is completely reconstructed, so this is a must-see for everyone. There is a large free area to walk around, but inside where they have artifacts displayed you must pay admission (adults 820yen). Parking is not free in this area, and can occasionally be difficult; I usually park in the lot in front by the lake and the art school. There are also several great events hosted here throughout the year, and often they will have traditional music and dance performances.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/oWMe5amhNvs
Shuri-jo at Night
Nakagusuku-jo, partially reconstructed: There is an entrance fee (adults 400yen). There is plenty of free parking. Amazing views. There are often events held here during the year. Since this gusuku is closest to me, I come here often (and sometimes I walk from my house to here).
address: https://goo.gl/maps/KPRVTYN8Tv22
Katsuren-jo, partially reconstructed: Free entrance and plenty of parking. The views here are also spectacular on a clear day.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/ixUqbBEEhx22
Zakimi-jo, partially reconstructed: Free admission. Views during the day are okay, sunset would be ideal.
address: https://goo.gl/maps/hxVp8zQrmo22
Nakijin-jo, partially reconstructed: Entrance fee (adults 400yen), there is not much in the closest parking area so you may have to walk on a busy day. Some good views and a very popular spot for sakura-viewing (hanami).
address: https://goo.gl/maps/6um9BbAWVVJ2
*Places with entrance fees have reduced rates for children, seniors, and groups.
Minor Gusuku Sites: I cannot actually list all these, as there are a lot of these former gusuku sites (and many really have nothing to see, just an empty field). I will try to list the ones that at least have something “nice” to see and worth a visit if you have a lot of time in Okinawa. Many of these sites are just partial stone walls, small shrines or worship areas, etc. Also since minor gusuku sites are not as much maintained, they are all free and generally very quiet.
Urasoe: Also near “Hacksaw Ridge,” Battle of Okinawa site. This site also is nearby MANY other important Ryukyu area historical sites, so be sure to explore! I am meaning to make a post about the historical trail in the area…
address: https://goo.gl/maps/gGhKUHwPGLD2
So I fully realize that crepes are, in fact, originally a French food. However, crepes are wildly popular as a street food in Japan (especially among ladies) and somehow, Japan has adopted them and given them their own style. Japanese crepes are quite different than crepes I have eaten elsewhere so they might surprise you; they use almost no butter (if any) and the fillings are not cooked (just rolled and stuffed in). When it is served, it generally looks like an ice cream cone.
The weather is starting to turn nice recently and work is still quiet since school is not back into full swing yet, so I took the opportunity to sneak out and get an afternoon snack.
I went to a little known place called Cafe Waka-waka located in a back neighborhood of Nishihara town. There are only 2-3 cramped parking spaces, but luckily I was able to park.
On the outside it doesn’t look like much, but when you enter… it is quite a cute and trendy cafe. It was quiet, with only 1 other group of girls eating there. At the counter, I ordered a crepe (it was called mango “cheese”), paid, and waited at one of the tables for a few minutes until it came out. The menu consisted of sweet crepes, savory crepes, and cafe drinks… it is even sort of a little in “English,” though some of it might not make much sense unless you can read the katakana below it, or are a really experienced Engrish-reader.
It was really good, packed full with vanilla ice cream, mango chunks and sauce, sweet cream cheese (but not like the kind you spread on bagels, instead more like rare cheesecake), and cinnamon sprinkled on top. The price was 470yen, which ordinarily is near my limit of how much I like to spend on dessert snacks, but compared to places in the mall which charge over 500yen for crepes, I thought this was a very good deal and I left satisfied. So if you are near Nishihara town and craving a Japanese-style crepe, I recommend checking out this local cafe.
Sangwa is an Okinawan protection amulet or talisman, like a type of omamori お守り, that is made from susuki leaves in a cross-shape. It is a charm to protect offerings, food, and children from majimun マジムン (evil spirits). Sometimes they are put on houses or in lunch boxes (bento 弁当).
The pizza company Pizza Paruko パルコ has this symbol on their takeout pizza box. Be sure to look for it!
You can also purchase small keychains made of leather or other materials in the shape of sangwa at some of the small local shops.
You may also see something like this during certain times of year, such as 8th Lunar month in Okinawa: ハチグヮチ (八月) or other celebrations where talismans are used.
I am personally not gluten-free, so I don’t really know all the “ins-and-outs,” but I can give a little help in finding some gluten-free and wheat-free items in Okinawa.
This can be difficult because I don’t think gluten-free is really a thing in Japan. But luckily, in SanA there is the “special dietary” section, and you can find a few items here… some are even labelled in English (!!). This is in the same section as the soy-free section I posted about awhile back. In some other stores, the items might be spread around and you have to look a little harder for the key words and ingredients.
As for items like shoyu and miso, wheat is often used so you have to look carefully and clearly for the no-wheat label, and check the ingredients. Luckily wheat is one of the 7 REQUIRED food allergy labels in Japan, so at least it is easy to identify if there is wheat or not in the ingredients! On the back of the product there is an allergy section, and if the product contains wheat it will be highlighted clearly. Gluten-free miso and shoyu are not usually in the special dietary section, so you may need to check the regular shoyu and miso aisles.
Rice flour and rice noodles (as well as some other types like konnyaku noodles, aka shirataki) are easy to find in most supermarkets, so gluten-free living in Okinawa should not be too much of a challenge.
gluten ingredients in Japanese:
小麦: wheat
大麦: barley
ライ麦: rye
バルガー: bulgar
蕎麦: buckwheat
麦芽: malt
水飴: starch syrup
phrases to look for:
グルテン入ってない: no gluten
小麦不使用: no wheat (or more literally wheat non-use)
＿＿＿不使用: no ______
The “okay” ingredients:
米: rice
大豆: soybean
こんにゃく: konnyaku (konjac)
Hopefully this gives a start as to what to look for in the grocery stores if you are looking for a gluten-free diet or a diet with wheat allergies, but this is NOT a comprehensive guide. If you would like to more know words to look for on packages or know of any I missed, just add a comment and I will update the post with more information. Depending on the degree of the gluten or wheat allergy, you may want to consider getting one of the translated restaurant allergy cards for when you would like to eat locally, especially since gluten-free and gluten allergies are relatively unknown to most Japanese.
狩り kari: literal translation is “hunting,” but it used for picking fruit
so ichigo-gari イチゴ狩り is strawberry picking.
Strawberry picking is really popular in Japan.
Today we went to Chura Ichigo 美らイチゴ, a strawberry farm in Itoman. Here, you pick your own strawberries in their covered greenhouse. They just opened this year and they grow 5 different varieties of strawberries.
When you enter, you take off your shoes and put them in the cubby, then wear the rubber slippers provided for you. Next you will be handed a basket with a tray in it. You are instructed in the method of how to pluck the strawberries, by turning the tops downwards and pulling gently (look at the picture signs they have for you to understand what I mean).
What I like about this place is that there is no entrance fee (!) and you simply pay for as many as you pick (2yen per 1 gram). We enjoyed some time choosing from the different varieties of berries and ended up with about 950yen worth of strawberries. These berries were so sweet and delicious, it was such a good value. If you want, they also have some benches you can sit at and enjoy eating your berries after you have paid for them, or you can get a bag to carry them home in if you prefer. I highly recommend trying Chura Ichigo!
Some other places, such as some farms in Ginoza (up north) and Tomoyu Farm in Nakagusuku, have only a tabehoudai 食べ放題 (all-you-can-eat) plan where you pay a certain amount (usually 1300yen for adults) and you can eat as many strawberries as you want in 20 minutes. For me, I prefer to savor my berries since they are a rare treat; I don’t want to scarf them down in a certain amount of time. So while I appreciate the novelty of the tabehoudai idea, it is not how I wish to enjoy my strawberries.
Chura Ichigo Itoman branch is only open on Saturdays and Wednesdays, from about January until May, starting from 10am until they are out of berries for the day. Most strawberry picking places in Okinawa begin their season around January/February and close by May.
**UPDATE: Chura Ichigo has opened a second location in NANJO. This location is open on Sundays and Thursdays, starting at 10 am until they are out of berries. These 2 locations have become so popular it is important to check the website for the day to see if they have sold out or go at opening! The website is even in English now since many foreign people enjoy visiting! The fees have changed; there is now an entrance fee and berries are 3yen per gram. They have also added a tabehoudai plan 食べ放題 for those interested.
くんぺん kunpen (in hiragana) is also sometimes seen as クンペン in katakana or as コンペン konpen. The representative kanji (which you probably will rarely see is 薫餅). It is another type of Okinawa sweet, one of the representative sweets from the Ryukyu Kingdom era (more Ryukyu sweets). It was often served to visiting Chinese envoys or during feast days. It is also a popular grave or shrine offering during Shiimii シーミー.
Kunpen looks plain and rustic on the outside, just a round little brown bun, but inside is full of an island peanut taste! I think this is a food that westerners can appreciate, since it kind of reminds me of peanut butter. The outside bun is a little dry and the peanut paste is sweet and rich so make sure to have some tea to drink while you eat this tasty treat. Personally I would recommend an unsweetened drink as you will get plenty of sweetness in the kunpen itself. Many bukubuku-cha cafes will serve a small piece of kunpen with the tea set.
You can find kunpen in supermarkets and some Okinawa sweets shops; it is very easy to find if you are interested in trying one. I bought the one in the picture from Zaha Kashiten in Shuri 座波菓子店. Some kunpen have sesame added in (or even other flavors as well), but this one does not– I think I prefer it that way.
I recently had to return home to Hawai’i for a very short few days, but on the way I had to pass through Haneda Airport with an 8 hour layover. So rather than stay in the airport for that long, we opted to take the monorail to the very last stop (maybe about 20 minutes if you take the express), Hamamatsucho-eki 浜松町駅. I did not find many ideas online of what to do with all this time (most people seem content to just stay in the airport, shopping or eating), but I was determined to make the best use of these few hours and decided on Hamamatsucho as my destination (most of the other stops did not sound like there was much around).
When we first got off at the station, we headed to the Japanese garden park that was adjacent; Kyu Shiba Rikyu Garden 旧芝離宮恩賜庭園 is formerly an Imperial garden. It is small but pretty, and admission was only 150yen. We were too early for sakura, though there were a few buds here and there. We were also at the very end of ume (plum blossoms) so not much to see there either, however, there were some other nice seasonal plants. It was refreshing, though a bit on the cold side.
After this we walked down the street and visited the Kumano jinja 熊野神社 (shrine) and Zōjō-ji (temple) 増上寺, located just in front of Tokyo Tower and next to Shiba Park. We were hungry, so we did not have a chance to wander through Shiba Park or Tokyo Tower (I have been there before anyway), just this small area around the temple and shrine, as well as the Unborn Children Garden. These are not uncommon to see at many temples in Japan, with rows of stone statues which represent unborn children (such as miscarried, aborted, or stillborn). Parents choose a statue, decorating it with clothing and toys. Often you will see a small gift for Jizo 地蔵 (guardian of unborn children). If you see stones are piled up near the statue this is meant to make journey into the afterlife easier.
To finish up, we headed to a place located just behind the station called Devil Craft Brewery… craft beer and Chicago-style pizza! Yes, I know… most people go to Japan and are not looking for this type of thing, but we live here and these types of places are few and far between. So how can we turn this down?
Apparently there are 2 other locations in Tokyo as well. They have some craft brews of their own, and some others from around Japan. Many foreigners will also be happy to know there is an English menu for both food and drinks. We did not make reservations, but since we got there at opening time (5pm) we got a table– keep this in mind if you decide to visit, get reservations! This place is super popular.
We each ended up to try 2 beers (pints) each, splitting an appetizer and a pizza. To be honest, it was my first time to have Chicago-style pizza! My husband loves it and it is his favorite type; since we have never seen another place serving Chicago pizza in Japan we knew we had to come here and try it. And it was so good!
Overall, it was pretty awesome, though a little costly. But when you consider that the craft beer scene in Japan is still a little new, I think their prices were fair to be honest. I would highly recommend trying this place out if you find yourself in the area.
Once we finished eating, it was time to get back on the monorail to the airport for our late night flight.
If you have read any previous posts, you are probably aware of my love (obsession?) with Japanese-style sweets. So this will be yet another entry dedicated to the wonderful world of Japanese sweets.
Today is about taiyaki たい焼き and dorayaki どら焼き. Neither of these are especially popular in Okinawa, and are probably a little more common on the mainland, however there are some places in Okinawa to find these tasty treats.
Taiyaki is a fish-shaped pastry with a filling inside, usually sweet bean paste (an). There is the traditional type, with many different filling choices, at a small stall in the basement food (depachika デパ地下) floor of Ryubo department store in Naha (also known as Palette Kumoji). My favorite is probably the kinako きな粉 (toasted soy bean); it is creamy kind of like peanut butter inside. There is also a new fad of “croissant taiyaki,” (クロワッサンたい焼) which is a flaky twist on the traditional favorite. This is actually easier to find in Okinawa since it is sold by the chain takoyaki store, Gindaco 銀だこ. I prefer the traditional style, but the croissant taiyaki is okay, too. Whenever the Kyoto products fair comes through the stores, there is almost always the Le Mans booth which sells many flavors of this croissant-style taiyaki– I like this better than the Gindaco ones, personally.
**Recently, I have had an incredibly delicious taiyaki at Amane 天音 near Kichijoji station in Tokyo! I 100% recommend stopping by and trying it if you are ever in that area!
Dorayaki is like 2 little tasty pancakes with a filling between them, again, usually sweet bean paste. But they are not quite pancakes or hotcakes… they usually have more pockets of air creating a nice fluffy texture, and the batter is usually sweetened with honey. These are ALL over, you can even find these in the convenience stores (like Lawson)! Some are even “Okinawa-style” since they use Okinawan kokutou 黒糖 (brown sugar). I will have to think about where my favorites are located… probably just the small booth that sets up outside the local grocery store once a month since there are always so fresh!
You can also find some small dorayaki at a specialty shop that also sells ohagi: here.
Culture note: Some people say how you eat taiyaki tells about your personality:
The person who eats the head first is an optimist.
The person who eats the tail first is a romantic and detail-oriented.
The person who eats the fin first is sensitive.
The person who eats by tearing it in half is a man of action.
A majority of people seem to eat the head first, but funny enough I usually eat the tail first.
伊勢だより Ise dayori roughly means “news from Ise.” Ise 伊勢 is located in Mie prefecture.
Yesterday while I was at the department store product fair I ate akafuku mochi. Afterwards, while in the “tea shop” sitting area, I noticed some of these small papers with rather interesting pictures on one side and some descriptions on the back. They were free, I picked up a few since I rather liked the artwork and decided I could read them closer later.
I found out that these papers are included on every box of akafuku mochi; they are printed every day with various themes of Ise, with news of their culture, history, landscape, food, religion, and more. It is a letter made every day from the shopkeeper to the customers. I guess it is also to help promote tourism of the area, but I thought this was a really nice idea. Also maybe it has worked, because now I feel like maybe I want to visit Ise…
You can also view these on their website.
I picked up papers for March 14, 15 and 16 shown below:
赤福餅 akafuku mochi is a famous type of mochi from Ise 伊勢 in Mie prefecture 三重県. It has a 300 year history.
赤 aka means “red” and 福 fuku means “luck.” 餅 mochi is rice cake.
At the Mie-Nagoya products fair, I got a tea set for only 210yen that included 2 pieces of akafuku mochi and tea.
Akafuku mochi is made with such smooth delicious bean paste, shaped in peaks to symbolize the ripples of the Isuzu river that flows through the Ise grand shrine region. Inside is mochi (rice cake) that represents the smooth white river pebbles.
The taste is amazing; they use no preservatives or artificial coloring and the azuki beans used are from Hokkaido, the mochi is made from all domestic mochi rice.
Today I went to a products fair for Nagoya and Mie held at the department store. There was this really tempting looking manjuu from Mie prefecture; it had a batter made with satsuma-imo (Japanese sweet potato). It was called hekoki manjuu へこきまんじゅう.
屁こき (へこき) hekoki: means “breaking wind” or “farting.”
饅頭 (まんじゅう) manjuu is just a type of Japanese steamed bun or cake. Some people romanize it as “manju” with only 1 u.
So these are “cakes” that make you pass gas. Hmmm. I read that sweet potatoes can make you more gassy.
There were many types to choose from but I got the one with cream cheese and cranberry in the middle and it was very delicious. The batter is made from sweet potato which made the texture and taste so yummy. I would really recommend trying these, but maybe not too many at one time…
I didn’t get a picture of the manjuu cake itself since I was too hungry to wait. At the time I was thinking of my stomach and hadn’t planned to write an entry about it. But then I thought that fart-inducing cakes seemed like a pretty interesting/unique food as well as being incredibly oishii 美味しい. I suppose whenever I make it to Mie prefecture, I will have to find their original shop!
We participated in the One Piece run in Chatan 北谷町; it is a 5.5 km “running” course set up through the American Village area with a One Piece (anime, manga) theme. The tickets were purchased through Lawson conbini and came with a T-shirt and wristband, as well as various other small things. We chose to do the first wave, but there are 4 times you could choose from.
Of course, on this day it decided to be rainy… but we did not let that deter us. We even got all the stamps for the stamp rally. Now admittedly, I have not read or seen much of One Piece… my husband wanted to participate in a beginner’s run, and since marathons are honestly a bit extreme for us, when this came up we decided to go for it. After all… it is Japan, and participating in an anime-themed run seems like something we should experience at least once.
There were some people dressed up as various characters or with One Piece gear, though you do not need to be so extreme to participate. The tent was selling some One Piece merchandise and souvenirs for the more serious fans. We were happy with our shirt and wristband.
As we jogged our way through the course, there were various fun station stops and picture opportunities. There was a sweets station (yes, I know… during a run, really? sweets? doesn’t that sort of feel contradictory?), the pirate ship, foam party, water gun battle, speakers playing OnePiece songs, character photos, and more. Despite being a little cold and soaked from the rain we had a pretty good time and my husband met his goal challenge. At the end they gave you a cute little certificate to say you completed and a pin. Maybe we will try again next year and have better weather.
For those who are more true fans, there was an “after-party” concert with some of the voice actors and one of the singing groups. We were chilly and wet, so we ended up to go home.
しゃぶしゃぶ: shabu shabu, a style of hotpot dish. The name comes from the sound the ingredients make swishing in the pot.
In Okinawa, there are a few places to try shabu shabu dining. This weekend, we found an amazing place up north. Yanbaru Dining Churashima Kitchen (YANBARU DINING 美ら島キッチン) in Motobu. It is mixed in with the Nago Agri Park, located behind the NeoPark Okinawa. It is in the back corner of the lot, and you will walk by some small stores and cafes to get there.
During lunch, prices are reasonable (1580yen per person): it comes with 100g of meat (Okinawa agu pork and chicken, which I just gave to my husband) and all you can eat veggies, rice, side dishes, soft drinks, etc. This place was great because it featured all Yanbaru produce and greens… there was so much fresh variety. You just grab a tray and fill up bowls with the veggies you want for cooking and they will bring out the broth and the meat (they also have some “specialty veggies” which they will bring out in separate bowls, so if they ask you any questions, just say YES = HAI!). Get some rice, dipping sauces, some side dishes, a salad… then get to work cooking and eating. Once your pot is boiling add veggies or meat as you like– the leafy veggies will cook very quickly, the thicker veggies and meat will take longer. Just use you hashi (chopsticks) to add and fish out the pieces you like. Dip in the sauce of your choice and it is ready to eat.
The menu is in Japanese, so you can order extra meat, but I am not sure you would need it. The workers also only spoke Japanese from my interactions with them, which again, should be fine since it is not so complicated. Just remember the large bar of veggies is for cooking, and the smaller table is for salad use (it says サラダ用 on it). There were many amazing Okinawa veggies, like handama, sakuna, fuchiba, and more.
Everything was delicious and we were quite full leaving. I didn’t get any pictures of the meat or cooking, I was too busy eating…
Yes, yet another post about a bakery here in Okinawa.
This time it is about Bakery Lulu in Nakagusuku. They are a fairly recent bakery, but they have some really good stuff. This pan-ya is really close to Nakagusuku Minami Farmers Market.
Today they had hanami dango pan 花見団子パン– flower-viewing “dango” bread. It was a stick with three types of small buns with bean paste fillings to resemble the 3-colored hanami dango! So cute, and so delicious. The pink was, of course, sakura bean paste, the middle was I think sweet potato bean paste (honestly in this context I could not tell for sure), and the last was a sweet green bean paste.
I have had many good things from this bakery, and I feel like some of their items are unique, so if you are near Nakagusuku, check them out!
Somewhat recently in Okinawa, we have another type of sakura (cherry blossom) that blooms after the usual season here (usual season for Okinawa is late January through mid-February). It comes from Kume-jima, so it is called kume-no-sakura クメノサクラ. Someiyoshino 染井吉野 is a type of cherry blossom blooming in mainland Japan; Kume no sakura is a cherry blossom which looks similar to someiyoshino, with whitish, faintly pale pink petals. Typically in Okinawa, we have a type of sakura with bright pink petals called kanhi zakura 寒緋櫻 (cold scarlet sakura), which are actually from Taiwan and southern China.
So while many people think that the sakura season is over for Okinawa, it is in fact not! In Izumi ward of the Motobu peninsula (not far from Yaedake), you can see these beautiful kume-no-sakura blooms, usually during mid- to late March, or even into very early April. There are around 1,000 trees planted there.
Another difference you will notice with the kume-no-sakura petals is that they fall away one by one, instead of the whole flower dropping at once like the kanhizakura does. The feeling of the kume-no-sakura trees is very different from the more commonly found kanhizakura here in Okinawa.
So if you missed the sakura the first time around in Okinawa, just be patient… and you will be rewarded with a set of slightly different, but just as pretty, sakura! How lucky are we in Okinawa that we get to see sakura not once, but twice a year?
*Note: you may be able to see these trees around various locations, but not in large concentrations– one such place is in front of the Orion Beer Happy Park in Nago.
These are some pictures are of them just starting, taken with my iPhone:
Address for Kume-no-sakura trees in Izumi ward of Motobu (there is a parking lot right next to the trees): https://goo.gl/maps/P5dx8YpfPUQ2
*First blooms: Mid-March, Peak: end of March, End: early April
漫画倉庫 Manga Souko is a nationwide secondhand store. In Okinawa, there are 3 of these stores. 漫画 manga means Japanese comics, and 倉庫 souko means warehouse. They are open 24 hours!
First word of caution: when you enter, it is extremely noisy inside. Not just a little, but a lot. If you go, you will see what I mean. It can be a bit overwhelming.
Second word of caution: their buyback rates are not very good, so don’t expect to get a lot of money for your books/clothes/cds/comics/etc that you sell them. And there prices tend to be slightly higher than some other places in my opinion. That being said, they also have the best variety, especially for anime, manga, and related goods.
Anyway, despite their name being “manga,” they actually have everything from games, consoles, cds, dvds, comics, figurines, clothes, shoes, small appliances, kitchen and household, sporting goods, instruments… the list goes on. So even if you don’t care much about manga or anime, there is a lot more to this interesting secondhand shop. I will admit, I have made more than a few purchases here.
Keep in mind, on a weekend or holiday it gets pretty busy… many people will go to the comics section and just read for hours without buying anything.
To find the closest to you, just copy and paste 漫画倉庫 into GoogleMaps (there are 3 locations in Okinawa: Awase, Urasoe, and Naha).
I will post some pictures of the outside and of some of my purchases soon.
ホワイトデー is “White day” in katakana. This is like reverse Valentine’s day in Japan; guys return the favor on March 14th to the girls for the chocolates they received on February 14th. This means they give girls chocolates or small presents, like handkerchiefs or hand towels, keychains, etc.
The stores will usually just change the sign from Valentine’s day to White day on the chocolates displays. Departments stores and shops will put out displays of small presents mentioned above, usually with cute designs or packaging. It is not as big as Valentine’s day, but there are plenty of displays to remind the guys to buy the girls a small present or chocolate.
Yesterday, my (Okinawan) friend brought something called “sake toba” 鮭冬葉 (or 鮭とば) that she found at the market (I believe Makishi in Naha) to our BBQ party. Sake 鮭 means salmon, and toba 冬葉 means swarm or flock in Ainu, an ethnic group indigenous to Hokkaido area. Toba is made up of the kanji for “winter” and “leaves,” which is supposedly related to a poetry from the region but I heard since it is not a word used any more, the exact meaning does not seem so clear.
Saketoba is basically just salmon jerky, a specialty product of Hokkaido. It is autumn salmon cut thinly with the skin left one. It is washed with seawater and dried in the breeze by the seaside, so it retains a salty flavor.
So what did we do with this? We grilled it (gently), and pulled into small pieces with a side of mayonnaise to dip them in. It was pretty good! This is definitely a good snack to go with alcohol. You don’t have to heat it or grill it, but it gets softer and more flavorful if you do, so it is recommended.
春分 shunbun is Spring equinox. It is the division of seasons.
In Okinawa, it is typically different than mainland Japan, just like shuubun 秋分 (Autumn equinox) is. While in the rest of Japan it may be more typical to visit hometowns and family graves, in Okinawa it is usually just observed at home at the butsudan (buddhist altar), with the typical special Okinawa foods used in most celebrations. The season of shiimii しーみー is just around the corner and it is the customary time to visit, clean and leave offerings at the graves then.
Spring equinox is also part of haru-no-higan 春の彼岸, which just refers to Spring equinox week. (O)higan literally means “the other shore,” meaning the other side of the river which divides the living from the deceased in the afterlife according to Buddhist tradition.
At any rate, it will be a public holiday for me, so I can hopefully enjoy the day off. And likely my sensei will bring in the leftover treats from his family’s celebration.
Today I went to Arakaki Chinsukou Honpo 新垣ちんすこう本舗, an omiyage sweets shop in Shuri which has been in business since 1908. There are also 2 locations in Naha, near Kokusai-dori. An interesting note, there are also 2 more shops called Arakaki Honke 新垣本家 and Arakaki Kami 新垣カミ which are from the same ancestors that make chinsukou and other traditional sweets. Obviously, they are most famous for their chinsukou, however today I went for something a little different; some lesser-known traditional Ryukyu sweets:
千寿こう（せんじゅこう） senjukou (also romanized as senjuko): peanut butter, sesame seeds, and kippan (citrus peels that are boiled with sugar), then wrapped in lard-based pie dough with rainbow colors. Its shape is similar to the image of a lotus flower. It was re-introduced after a long time after being featured in a popular period drama called “Tempest.” This is the only shop in Okinawa which sells senjukou, and quantities are limited every day since it is made by hand.
闘鶏餃（たうちいちゃう）tauchiichau: traditional treat fried in lard, a sesame bean paste wrapped in a stiff pie crust with red and green dots added. It is named as such since it resembles a cockscomb (rooster comb).
花ぼうる hanabouru: ryukyu cookie with a hard texture and intricate decoration that is carefully shaped like a wisteria flower.
Clockwise, starting on the left: senjukou, tauchiichau, chinsukou, and hanabouru
These sweets are perfect for tea-time, especially if you choose sanpin-cha (jasmine tea). Or if you want to be fancy, try recreating bukubuku-cha. Today though I decided on hibiscus tea.
At this shop, you can also find many varieties of chinsukou, as well as a few other traditional sweets only found in Okinawa. The staff was very friendly and had some samples out. If you make a purchase, they will give you a free chinsukou cookie to take with you. My husband liked the chinsukou best of the four items, but for me I think it was definitely the senjukou with its nutty taste with a hint of citrus (plus it is so cute looking!). The hanabouru would have actually gone better with coffee in our (westernized) opinion. As a reminder, these are not for strict vegetarians or others who don’t eat pork since all of these contain pork lard.
I am quite fascinated by all the various traditional Ryukyuan sweets and their differences from traditional Japanese wagashi; they developed independently, with influence from both China and Japan. The names of more than 200 sweets are found in literature, but almost all of the recipes were lost with the overthrow of the dynasty and then the mass destruction during World War II.
